Curses and blasphemy

It's what came out of my mouth when I did this.

Just spend a lot of time making these carbs perfect. I've done my carbs before but I suspected there were some things I could improve. They were pretty clean, but I made them cleaner, fixed a couple of rust issues and re-set the float heights, which were not very good. Then, I decided I would take some pictures...

aaaaaand dropped them on the concrete. #1 engine side got dented in a little bit---but it wasn't broken. The breaking was accomplished by my trying to bend it back into roundness.

Can I get some thoughts on how to proceed? Don't worry, I've already done the palm-into-forehead operation. Yes, I am an idiot. For at least two reasons.

Take a look at the photos; here are my thoughts. Epoxy? Silver solder? New carb body? What seems like the best operation to all you folks? Otherwise, I think the carb is in good shape, and I'd hate to start over with another one...but I will if I have to.

 

Strip the carb body (soldering will take enough heat the the throttle shaft seals will get damaged). Drill a small hole at the end of the crack to keep it from spreading, then solder it and the crack (be sure to use flux and solder that is meant for aluminum). Save your pennies for a spare rack, and inspect the crack annualy.

This link will help you pick a solder and understand the process for making the repair. https://app.aws.org/wj/2004/02/046/


OR. you could just drill the hole, clean the throat really well, and seal it up with a fuel-resistant epoxy. It won't look as good, and may not last as long, but it will be easier to do. Keep th epoxy on the outside of the carb throat in case it flakes off. Any flakes will be trapped between the body and the intake boot.

 

go get some "seals-all" at the auto parts store. wipe some on the outside, nice and thin. let it dry and put it back on the bike, then forget it happened and have a beer.

 

Gently dress it back into shape & repair with some-http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Q-BOND-GLUE-QBOND-ADHESIVE-GREY-BLACK-POWDER-/121662459298?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

 

Or do the epoxy fix as a temporary repair. Then a "new" carb body (or maybe a full rack if the price is good, everybody needs spares) and make it a winter project to replace... gotta do something when the white stuff flies!

 

Hey guys,

Thanks for the responses. I spent way too long researching epoxies and stuff, and I know I can get the Al solder kit and do it that way, but even that has its own problems. I guess what I'll do is use JB Weld marine ("fuel resistant"), keep an eye on it, and also have a beer. How's that for a composite of everyone's advice?

I'll put up a pic when I'm done.

Cheers and thanks.

 

i've tried to use that aluminum rod a few times and had zero success. sometimes the part just melted and other times it looked really good, then fell apart. i guess i ain't a welder

 

It's not you, it's the material. That brazing rod (it's really a solder) is pretty much crap, but with enough practice a person can do a decent job at making cosmetic repairs.

 

it is superglue and fine sand my local napa auto parts has it
also uses a super glue accelerator

 

Here's what I did. Dressed as carefully as I could. Could not get it completely round, but it's pretty close. I didn't want to crack it again.


Drilled it out so that the epoxy had somewhere to go:


Filled:


Filed and sanded smooth, finishing with 1000-grit:


Here's hoping it lasts a good, long time. Onward!

Thanks, all.

 

I hope it lasts a long time too. I didn't see a through-hole at the end of the crack. Did you not drill one to keep the crack from propagating?

 

No I didn't go all the way through, almost. Went from the top until I saw intact metal. Didn't want to leave a slug of epoxy that could fall through.

Of course now I am reconsidering. The crack is due to stress from the impact and bending, not from normal use, so I wouldn't really expect it to move. On the other hand, the drill hole would probably stop it...

 

If you ever need to buy a spare rack I have one I don't need anymore. I bought it as is on ebay when I owned a 1983 Maxim 750, which I sold last year. It has no floats, no bowls, no needle neither main jets.

 

Thanks! I'm sure you already know, but I just looked up the carbs, and I guess it also uses the HSC33 carbs. I might be interested! Send me a PM...I don't have a job right now so funds are tight, but maybe when I get re-employed...

 

you do nice work, butterfingers

 

If you got down to uncracked metal it should be OK. The remainder of where it has cracked all the way through might spread, but the epoxy should reduce the likelihood of that happening.

 

Not dropping it again would also help that...

 

Right?!

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Thanks for all the help friends!