Questions?

Opinions and answers wanted...

I have an 81 Seca 750

I am currently in the restoring process.

First:

I am going to have my gas tank dipped to have the rust removed.
What tank sealer should I use after I dip it, and do I need to prep the inside first before applying the sealer? This is probably a supid question, but should the fuel gauge be removed when sealing the tank? (I would say Yes)
I am also repainting the tank with help from a neighbor. Does anyone know where I can get the original tank decals? I have the red and gold decals.

Next:

Where is a good cheap place to get alternator brushes? They are like $40 a piece thru the local yamaha dealer.

Next:

Is the $27.?? manual petcock Idea better than getting the rebuilt kit?

Where is a good place to order tires offline? I'm thinking of getting the Dunlop D404 Tires. My friend has them on his Vulcan and says the ride really nice. Plus right now I don't want to spend a fortune on tires, because I don't even know how long I'll have this bike.

I guess if anybody else has any suggestion about other stuff let me know. I just repainted the frame last week and it turned out really well. All I have left is to get my neutral switch, then I can put the motor back on the frame, and remount everything, clean the carbs, and get the tank dipped, sealed and painted. I'm thinking I can have it done by Labor Day.

 

Prepping the tank will be according to the sealer manufacturers directions. I recommend POR 15. Many here have tried it and found it better than Kreem. Of course I assume that the tank is leaking or rusty and that is why you want to seal it. If not leaking no sealer is needed. If rusty a sealer is good but may not be necessary. Many have removed rust with the electro method with no need for a sealer as long as fuel was kept in the tank to keep therust from reforming.

I did the $27 petcock which actually cost me $40. $15 for the petcock and $18 for the plate and $11 for shipping. There are pros and cons about the switch. Biggest cons are that you have to remember to turn the petcock off or risk fuel in the oil. Second is that the switch is not reversable. Pro is that the fuel can be shut off with no worries of the floats letting fuel in the oil and that should the petcock fail a new one is only $15. Main cons about the rebuild kit is that it doen't always work and a new petcock was $90 from my yamaha dealer.

 

It isn't leaking, but it is really rusty. I was just thinking of sealing it so the rust doesn't form again. Because after I get it dipped, it will probably sit for a couple weeks before I actually put gas in it.

 

Go to your local boat store. Get a can of fogging oil. Spray liberally inside the tank.

 

Why don't you try the Kens electrolysis way , it worked very well for my bike,only snag for me is that I couldnt get the anti rust treatment for application after de-rusting.
Send me your e-mail and i will forward to you the illustration or may be you could find it here in our site .
All the best.

 

Too late, I brought the tank in already. It's only going to cost me about $30-50 to have it dipped in Acid. I really don't feel like messing with it. I'll have to try the fogging oil in the tank when I get it back. I also heard that WD-40 would work as well. Thanks for the input.

 

I've also used motor oil in the past. Just make sure it is rinsed out with some gas first before running the bike.

 

http://www.reproductiondecals.com/defau ... .html~main

Try this for decals and badges.

http://www.cyclewareables.com/pages/alt ... rushes.htm

Alternator brushes.

http://www.oldbikebarn.com/


http://www.z1enterprises.com/

http://www.bikebandit.com/

These sites will keep you out of trouble for a while.

 

You can get alternator brushes from Dennis Kirk for around $15 a set.

I used KBS Coatings Tank Sealer system to seall my tank. It worked great.

www.kbs-coatings.com