Best way to remove float pivot pins

Hey there!

While my carbs are off I'd like to check the float valve screens and clean them and also do the float valve seats if necessary. The problem is the float pivot pins are stuck in there and don't want to move even a bit. What's the best way to remove them without breaking the posts? Bike is a 1983 Seca 900 equipped with Mikuni carbs.

 

I just rebuilt a set. Kroil (I swear by the stuff), a small block of wood or pvc set between the posts and a set of channel locks, angled to push the pin and gripping the opposing post as low as you can go.
The most important part (I'm sure) was the Kroil.

 

Someone posted up a brilliant idea on this forum that I've been using with great success ever since I saw it: spring loaded center punch. Applies just enough impact force to shift the pin from its stuck position, even with a couple of shots the pin will slip out easily after its loose.
Kroil or any penetrating oil will help out, as well.

 

One othe way but you may lose a float is grab the pin and float with vide grips and rotate the pin to loosen it.

 

Thanks everyone. I may follow the spring-load center punch track, with my own brew of penetrating oil (50-50% ATF and acetone).

 

^^^^ +1 on the spring loaded centre punch, remover all mine without any problems, but file a little flat on the pointy end before you use it , so it doesn't flare the end of the pin out.


oh, and drive them back in with it, after you're done.
stu

 

ONe of my punches has two ends of different sizes (1/32 and 2/32) both are flat.

 

I had three float pins out pretty easily, but #2 is more stubborn, I'll let the penetrating oil work for me overnight.

 

I wonder if I should file or gently grind down the pin tips to make it easier to put them back in (and to pull them out next time).

.

 

Maybe chamfer the end but once you have them out and everything clean they probably won't get stuck unless you park the bike for 5 years with dirty gas and moisture getting them stuck again. As for that last one even heat from a bic light might be enough to get it out just make sure you wash off the solvent first... Burnt eyebrows !

 

Or just buy new pins, they're cheap and much safer..........

 

I finally had all four float pins out and could remove the float needles. Have a look at them and please tell me if you would consider replacing them or not. None of them is gouged, but #1 is a bit round at the very tip.

 

if your float needles seal properly against the float seat and shut off the flow fuel into the bowls...then there is no need to replace.....can you answer if that is the case....

but if you can afford it, bite the bullet, and replace seats & needles......then you know what you got from this point further

 

I haven't had any float leak as far as I know.

 

so the punch with 2 ends, does it actually hammer by itself ,or do you hit it with a hammer, as I can't see any part that moves?
stu

 

Between the two ends is a pretty strong spring, all you have to do is hold one end steadily on the thing to be hit , grab the other end and pull to stretch the spring and then release it.

 

Like a slinky......

 

ah, I see, "doh"

 

Here are my mixture screws. TIps are nice. All in all, they are pretty clean but I'm concerned with the small o-rings, they seem very flat and they feel pretty stiff.

 

Replace the o-rings. May as well do the washers while you're there, too

 

I agree - orings and metal washer - replace them

 

I will order them, and float valve seat o-rings too, and maybe float pins if they are cheap enough !

 

i've never seen one that works like that....i want one, link?

other than their cheap and easy to lose, why would you replace the washers?

 

You should be able to find some, they're made in USA. Try at www.springtools.com or call (800) 356-6966

 

i'll be damned, never saw one like that. i guess mine is called a automatic center punch, just push and it snaps.
i think it would snap a float post into next week

 

just watched the video linked above....what a cool tool.......have to get one......

 

They are pretty cool. I haven't seen one since my grandfather passed in '81.

 

And they were exactly what I needed to extract those float pivot pins. They worked very efficiently and the risk of breaking a post is virtually absent.

 

I installed the new mixture screw o-rings and the float valve seat o-rings I got from Len today. I plan to slightly chamfer the float pin small ends and to polish the float valve seats. Do you guys have any other specific recommandations before I put all bits back together in each carb? What would be a good start for the mixture screws? Two and a half turns out?

 

are you doing the wet set thing again?
i start at 2.75 but don't ask my why

 

Not again. It will be the first time since I got the bike (more than two years ago).

 

I did mine with a $10 spring loaded center punch I got at Lowes.

 

I use either my 99-cent spring-loaded center punch from Harbor Freight, or my fine-tip finishing nail punch. Either way I make sure to support the bottom tower before trying to punch the pin.

 

i shoot 'em out with a BB gun at fifty yards

 

SOme of you may have write too fast, I'm not asking for tips to take them out, they are already out ! I asked if there is something I should do before I put all the parts together.

 

I simply will them out using The Force.

Some of them resist, but they are no match for the power of The Force.

 

Yes. Make sure everything is surgically clean.

 

And make sure there are no "burrs" or mushrooming of the pin shaft (at the end opposite the head).

 

SHould I put some engine oil, white grease or spray silicone on new o-rings?