1982 XJ750 Maxim Tracker O.E.M. +

Hi guys! I've been offline for some time, life, ya know? But I'm back, and the XJ 750 has been dusted off and all parts boxes assembled...new parts bought, enjoy!

 

Some of the O.E.M. used parts I've bought...

* 1978 Yamaha XS400 tank and tail piece
* 1982 Yamaha XJ650 Turbo forks, wheels, and brake discs
* 1982 Yamaha XJ750 Seca triple clamps
* 2008 Suzuki GSXR front master cylinder and Clutch Perch
* 2005 Yamaha YZ125 throttle housing and tube
* 1984 Kawasaki GPZ750 Speedo/Tach

O.E.M. Parts...

* ALL valve cover gaskets
* ALL outer engine cover gaskets
* Shift shaft seal
* Intake and Exhaust gaskets
* Header bolts
* Front/Rear brake pads/shoes

Aftermarket O.E. Parts...

* Front/Rear wheel bearings
* FULL Hitachi HSC32 carb rebuild from XJ4Ever
* YICS block off tool
* NEW pilot and main fuel jets
* EMGO pods but soon to be the new UNI foam
* Pro Taper oversized clamps and bars
* K&L Front Brake rebuild (WTF Yamaha...)
* K&L Fork Seals
* RedWing coil over shocks (325mm 4-way height adjustment)
* M.A.C. Full Exhaust 4into1
* Renthal Grips
* Bridgstone BT45 110/90-18F and 130/80-18R (Need 110/90-18R)

Still Need...

* Custom Steel Braded front brake lines
* Throttle and Clutch cable
* Poss. OEM fiber clutch plates if needed

 

Welded front tank tabs (first time welding, go easy plz ;-)



Putting it together...



Engine in with new mac exhaust and gaskets



O.E.M. Love it.



I forgot to buy new spark plugs :-/

 

What year is that Desoto? Are you doing a resto or a mod on it?

 

I'm not sure what year (not mine) but I believe 1953 and its not getting anything done to it. It is fully operational. Just had the entire brake system redone. The owner picked it up for a deal and a half so its up for sale right now. Everything is original for the most part so its perfect for the base of a project.

 

Stripped, cleaned, and replaced seals and covers on the brakes...does anyone know of a crossover brake caliper outer seal, (the outermost seal that has a fan grove in the middle) as the ones that come with the K&L are about half the thickness. I know i can buy the combo (piston with seals) but I'm trying to avoid it as its $200 for both. I've seen it posted before but I can't find it anymore...I'm testing it anyways as numerous people HAVE done this and had no issues. With that said, i do understand how the seals work and would like the correct size.

 

All loaded up, no issues. Very tight seal but not rough while installing piston...will still keep my eye on them. OEM pads and new sleeve covers. Used foam 3000 pad on pin and piston to clean up to perfection (VERY LIGHTLY!)

 

Carbs all ready to be installed...crossing fingers, should be interesting.



New spark plugs and feeler gauge to check valve clearances!

 

Well, the calipers don't fit...on the look out for Nissan calipers then will machine an adapter plate. Freshly rebuilt 1982 XJ750 Maxim calipers up for sale.

 

Well, the calipers don't fit...on the look out for Nissan calipers then will machine an adapter plate. Freshly rebuilt 1982 XJ750 Maxim calipers up for sale.

 

Just finished checking the float height (18mm starting point), 40 pilot and 132 main...it's a starting point.

 

Calipers won't fit the forks? Then you'll need the 650 Seca calipers to fit the 650 Seca front end if they are indeed different. Or is it an issue with not having the right brake disc's?
If you can make an adapter plate to mount Nissan calipers, why can't you make one for the calipers that you have?

 

I'm trying to find a true picture of the Turbo calipers vs. Maxim, they look identical! The discs, wheel and forks are all from a XJ650 turbo...just the calipers are from the Maxim.

The time/cost to make adapters for single pot calipers that have a questionable seal would be better spent on two pot r6/r1 calipers.

 

Why don't they fit? The Maxim and Turbo calipers look identical...

 

132. Mains seem really big

 

Yeah it is! I was a bit delirious last night and put those in instead of the 124's...so 40 pilot, 124 main.

 

Turned out a pin for the foot peg...been a while since I used the lathe.

 

Don't forget to remove the caps on those shiny new plugs

 

Carbs bench sync'd and float height adjusted @ 18mm and new 40 pilot jet and 124 main jet to start off...battery and gas to come tomorrow and will start up

 

get that pin back in the lathe and put a chamfer on the top and bottom, the holes too.
fanciness is important

 

Good eye! I'm going to make another set and some more parts once I buy more stock. Some bolts and rear sets/foot peg holder and exhaust mount bracket.

 

So...figured out what is wrong with the brakes, I have a single sided brake disc (bought two though) from a model which I do not remember, but I think it was a XJ550 poss. Anyhoo...the diameter of that disc is a bit bigger than the xj650 Turbo discs. Got to eBay AGAIN and find 'em...but I will be using the calipers that I rebuilt from the Maxim. I'll take pics and post up some goodies that are in great shape and for sale, later today.

 

So, as expected whilst being hopefully optimistic, I have an electrical gremlin...the owner before me cut the very front part of the loom that goes to all the lights. Plugging in the speedo, tach and other bull shit that came with the XJ so I can to narrow out possibilities. Not getting spark but the motor turns over from the starter solenoid. This engine has 7,2XX miles on it and I rode it before the tear down. Going through all connections with Yamaha wire diagram (From Yamaha, not aftermarket or online reference) so I can see the correct color code. If it is no good, I'm making a complete new harness (Been really wanting to do this, but only as a last resort due to time).

Cheers :|

 

Still waiting for the battery so I decided to work on my new headlight... and speedo/tach mount. The speedo is from a 1984 GPX750 in great condition. The tach may or may not work with a few possible wire adjustments (connecters are the same shape and fit perfectly) but I don't see why not...yet.

Started with the OG fog light and took it apart as far as I could, down to the glass front housing and metal back housing.



Put the glass/metal housing in the oven at 350 for 10 minutes, then voila.



Split apart.



Scraped as much of the excess adhesive off the glass with a fresh razor blade and the remaining residue with acetone. The metal back housing is getting sand blasted along with the front bezel. Black or Chrome for the inside housing? Halogen or nice HID setup (Going halogen, 95%)



Drilled out the fog reflector/dimmer. Saved in case it works better with it (only two rivets).

 

bump.

 

How's the progress? I'm very interested in this build. Nice work

 

I've been ordering a bunch of parts and had it complete built and rideable. Now its completely apart getting painted and small thing dialed in (new wheel bearings exhaust, and other fun stuff.) I'll post some pics soon this week. Also, NEVER TAKE THE INTAKE BOOTS OFF!!! I didn't read up about before but it went like this: Bolt removed, bolt removed, bolt removed, bolt snapped, bolt removed, bolt removed, bolt snapped, bolt snapped. Tried to put it in the Bridgeport mill and remove via carbide bits but holes became oblong, so head is off and about to go to machine shop. If your next question is why did i remove, because i wanted to paint the motor properly and have purchased new boots and gaskets. Live and learn, and also, will ALWAYS conduct a XJbikes.com search prior to any motor work. Cheers.

 

I had already rebuilt these with new v-seals, brings, float valve assembly, bought a jewelers drill bit set and used the #80 bit to clear out the emulsion tube zestfully (and liberal amounts of carb cleaner and compressed air!), #124 mains, #40 pilots, new gasket, every seal and rim got silicon grease to make a nice seal (applied with a tiny paint brush, a little goes a long way.). Still need to address the choke rail and carb hat pieces for paint they don't rust. And yes, this is the second time taking them apart from the rack...so much fun but you need to dedicate a solid day.

 

Forks got completely disassembled and all pars cleaned via parts cleaner, awaiting new oil an dust seals and oil seal snap ring so i can reassemble. Also, stripped the paint off the lowers, not sure if i want to repaint or leave the raw aluminum as there was almost no pitting or damage whatsoever.

 

Here are my fully rebuilt calipers, also stripped as mentioned before. New seals from KnL (Chacal is right, the one seal is bigger, I have seriously braked on these with brand new BT45's that were scrubbed in and had zero issues, but I understand the dilemma). Until he sells the seals separately without the pots, I ain't buying them. The odds of BOTH going out to the point of zero brakes and no rear brake is 99.9 % unlikely. One seal does fit perfectly so no worries. Goodrich steel braided lines and Genuine Honda brake fluid. Yay.

 

My bad, its been a while on the forums, etiquette is a bit rusty...got some more parts pictures coming!

 

Also, front master cylinder is a 2007 GSXR 750 thats been rebuilt along with matching clutch perch on the other side, all OEM parts and levers. Fresh to death.

 

I really like that gas tank on there, funny thing is that back in it's day I didn't like that shape of tank, some things grow on me I guess...

 

Thanks, I'm actually thinking about buying another so i can cut the bottom part out and shape my own piece. The current tank fits perfect but it has a bunch of ball peen hammer marks...metal shaping is so much fun but extremely detailed. Fortunately you can't see any of the marks once on the bike but I know I can do better now. Once the bike is complete i'll probably doit as i've already made custom fuel line plates in place of where the petcocks once went. I couldn't use the original because the tank sits too low and the petcocks would hit the valve cover before sitting all the way down. Using an inline petcock with filters on each side before the two lines meet...so tank, two plates with male connecter (aluminum plate and 1/4" brass male fitting) with two lines, two filters, T-connector (brass), petcock.

 

Here is the new tank cap I bought from Yamaha so I could have new keys and good seal.

 

Here is the old cap that had a busted lock...was able to buy just the seal form Yamaha and waiting to find another cap with a good locking mechanism, these are fully rebuildable! I do need 3 small, fine-pitched thread screws and matching tap to finish this one. The new one uses screws but the OG one had rivets in its place, so i had to drill them out to put the new seal on. This will be for the second tank once the day comes.

 

Fresh O.E.M. Yamaha parts:

Valve cover gasket
Valve cover bolt grommets (4 big ones, 8 small ones)
All side cover gaskets and some internal ones, once motor is ready for reassembly after paint
Intake boot gaskets (new boots also in a box somewhere...)
Rear brake pads (Made by Mitsubishi

 

Fresh Aftermarket parts:

Emgo Headlight mounts
Metal valve stems
UNI crank case breather filter (UNI foam pods to match soon)

 

YICS block off tuning tool via XJ4ever.com, very nice piece.

 

And last, but not least...



My custom Kerker knock off...it started its life as a baffled MAC (puke for quality; when my tig skills improve, i'll try and make a custom stainless) but decided to cut that out, install a perforated sheet metal tube w/ 4 stroke packing. Regretfully, I shortened it and ended up not liking it so I'm probably just going to buy the R6 Akrapovic GP slip-on as I had originally planned. And also, on a test ride it fell off, bummer dude.

 

Testing VHT engine paint on my valve cover...the color is Flat Black Engine Enamel rated @ 500 degrees fahrenheit. I previously used Dupl-Color Satin Black high temp enamel; very nice finish but didn't use the primer and had some areas where it flaked a little. For prep I used Aircraft striper to remove old paint, then soda blasted it. Compressed air and alcohol sprayed on to clean off residue, then final alcohol wipe down.



Next is the VHT Engine Enamel primer, first 2 coats...



Now paint, which I did 4 passes; 2 pass over everything with the second coat concentrating on creating even finish, nice quick, almost full bursts out of the aerosol from at least 12" but no more then 14". Small passes with that distance worked best for me. After letting those coats dry, paint and primer was removed with 320 sand paper for the raised area on top of the cover. Once all paint is removed, alcohol rinse and wipe down with blue tape neatly applied with almost no overhang on the raised areas. I hit the outside edges withe the sander while making the 90 turn down, so these two more coats will cover that all up. Again, concentrating on light areas with no glossy or runny areas. The last 2 coats was really 2 light coats, then 10 minutes, then two more light coats.

 

Got some more engine work done: Started soda blasting prep on the motor, taped off cylinders and holes.



Drilled and tapped 3 seized intake boot holes for new aluminum slugs that were threaded on the lathe. Red loktite on all three slugs made then tightened in all the way. Once the loktite is dry, I'll put it in the mill and machine the slugs down to face the cylinder head.

 

Everything looks good! I really like that tank choice.

Regarding your new front brake setup: Did you use stock length braided lines, or are they a custom length? I'm doing my brakes all around this winter and I like the idea of that GSXR MC/Lever setup; mine's in bad shape.

 

Thanks, everything is slowly starting to come together once the head repair is complete (I'll have updates on that tonight)...I'm using stock size, XJ650 Goodrich steel braided lines; three hoses and using the stock junction box. They feel very firm, all though, I was looking here on XJ4ever and saw they now sell aftermarket caliper seals that are the correct fit for mine so I'm going to swap that out soon to make sure its close to perfect.

 

So all should be good, just need to reassemble once all my gaskets and I-rings come in for the top end. May re-ring just because I'm down there...Anyhoo, milled down the 3 plugs but couldn't go all the way due to the cylinder head intake face being at almost a 4-5 degree angle. So we got it really close then hand filled VERY slowly and carefully. Got it almost flat then made my drill marks by installing an intake boot on the head and punch marked the center of drill hole. Drilled out with 5mm drill bit, tapped @ M6x1. Measured left and right and 90 degrees below of the said holes to make sure they were even lengths on all three points insuring as close to center as poss. Still nervous but it should be good once the carbs go on...



After I tapped all of them, I sanded the faces berry carefully with 1000 on a block

 

Chased all 8 holes with the tap with grease, cleaning the dirty grease off each hole and re-greasing.

 

nice work. did you consider putting ss studs in those holes, then that will never happen again