Tools and uses

Seen a lot of posts here and other forums I read about broken and sheared bolts/studs. I am a 30yr aircraft mechanic hence I have removed more than my share of these. Things to do when this happen when a bolt or stud breaks. First do not panic, take a deep breath ,a large swig of beer ok maybe 2 . Craftsman makes a real nice extractor set (looks like a socket) if there is enough remaining and you can get access usually works. The other option grind smooth use a fresh steel drill bit go slow with your drill , use a good quality E-Z out. This is where I will say it loud DO NOT USE Harbor Freight drill bits or E-Z outs. Most are made from low carbon steel they are brittle , and if you do use these make sure bit is for steel. I knew a guy tried drilling our a stud he could not figure why bit kept "walking" on him. I looked at it he was using a wood drill bit you should have seen his expression. Craftsman also has a flexible extension that attached to your drill for work in tight places, but uses threaded on bits. Been a few years since I got any of these Grainger used to carry them and Snap On had similar . Well anyway just my 2 cents hope his might help someone out there in the XJ world

 

Thanx, man! We don't have Harbor Freight around here, but cheap tools are cheap, spend some money. You get whatchu pay for.

 

Theoretically, if some dumbass snapped off a 6mm intake bolt upon trying to remove it what would his best course of action be? It was very seized and no amount of penetrating oil would free it. With it being such a small and very important bolt I don't want to break an easy out in it as well.

 

@TonySeca: Is enough of the stud sticking out to grab with vice grips?

Gary H.

 

Unfortunately not, only about half a thread is sticking out.

 

Tony, send it to jetfixer.

 

@Jetfixer: We know you have good intentions but you're not reading the advice given to remove the broken studs which is some of exactly what you said.

@TonySeca: Is the stud accessible with a drill bit? Are you near a machine shop or bike shop?

Gary H.

 

I went back to the beginning of the forum and found that JETFIXER started the forum with just an informational post. The only information for him to read would be the information he supplied. The rest is all theoretical.

I believe it would be ME that made a post in error, so I'll correct that now.... Since the theoretical dumbass could only break a theoretical bolt, the threads remaining are only theoretical. Therefore, theoretically the simplest way to repair it would theoretically be to send the part out to have the bolt removed by someone who has lots of experience in doing that. I suggested sending the part out to jetfixer, not realizing it was just a theoretical scenario.

Thanks for the info, jetfixer... I really enjoyed reading through it.

Dave f

 

Or weld a nut onto it and spin it back out. That usually works. If not, then on to the drilling and extracting (if you see the extractor begin to deflect (twist), stop what you're doing; a broken extractor is imminent). Even then they sometimes won't come out and will have to be drilled out to the root of the threads, and the threads then picked out. Lastly is the option of drilling it oversize and installing a hell-coil, which I usually save for the occasions when I have screwed everything else up.

Aircraft mechanics know their stuff. It's good to see one posting.

 

My apologies for hijacking the thread, but yes the dumbass that I spoke of is real and he is me. I appreciate all of the suggestions. I wasn't sure if I should try the easy out method on such a small diameter bolt, or if I should just bite the bullet and find a machine shop. The welded nut sounds promising, but the only person I know with a welder is my Ex Girldriends dad, and I doubt he's going to be doing me any favors haha

 

Go easy on yourself. The intake bolts are soft (for a reason) and snap easily after having been in place for a few decades.

 

Enlighten me, what is the reason.

 

Cuz they're made from craptacular™ metals. Most of the hardware on these bikes seems to be pewter ... but don't quote me on that!

 

My apology's if I have offended anyone , I was merely trying to help with my experience with broken studs this WAS not directed at anyone at all.

 

I don't see any signs of any offense being taken.

 

If the fastener is corroded in place (or overtorqued) it snaps off instead of damaging the casting by stripping the threads out. This also makes drilling out the remnant easier. It's the method that Japan chose in order to protect the expensive bits from inexperienced assembly workers.

 

Jet fixer, you're fine.... No prob

 

@Jetfixer, there was no offense taken at all. I really appreciate the write up as it is very informative.

@k-moe, that definitely makes me feel better about snapping it haha.

This has to be one of the best forums around, I swear I learn something new every time I log in.

 

The absolute best thing I have ever used for getting bolts out is my oxy-acetylene welding rig. I don't do a great deal of welding, but this thing is worth it's weight in stuck screws (and that's a lotta screws).

Best thing is to apply it before you snap it off. You can also apply it after, if you have enough of it to grip. Using a small welding tip allows you to concentrate heat only on the fastener and not set every damn thing around you on fire. People will talk about using propane torches, but they usually either aren't hot enough, or heat way too big of an area.

I've tried the weld a nut to it trick. It's really hard to do if the fastener is someplace tight. Also, you have to take care to not weld everything to the big part. If you do it right, though, it's great. I got the remains of the sheared fairing bolt on my FJ out that way.

Lefthanded drill bits can also be very useful.