How do you get your c-clip out?

Now to slowly remove it so it doesn't go pop. Lol

 

Cheers all,
First bits look clean.
O-ring is soft and supple, no rust of impo anywhere. .
Is this the original spring?

There has been a clunk in 1 or both shocks for some time.
(82 XJ-550 Seca)

I assume I need to release the allen key bolt at the base of the shock to examine the spacer and such. Anything to lookout for?

Thinking of replacing original and going progressive. .. prices already recieved.

 

Clunking can be caused by worn bushings.
Yes that is likely the spring it came with when new.

Get a spark plug socket with a 19mm external hex on it, along with a few drive extentions. Flip the socket so the hex becomes the business end (some aren't flipable without doing some dremel work, so look at the inside of the socket when you buy one) and use the extensions to make a tool that will hold the top of the damper rod while you remove the damper rod bolt.

This thread is for the XJ650 Maxim forks, but the 550 forks are essentialy the same.
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/8355

 

Creative. A long furniture clamp from Lowe's or HD and a socket will allow c-clip removal/installation in situ.

Gary H.

 

I just use a socket extension and push. Easy.

 

take them out before you pull them from the clamps

 

I Checked at one of the local shops... no bushings listed as a replacement part!
Guess I'll see when I get into the bottom.

Had to reef on the hex bolt to undo it.
Now to figure out what the comp. tool is so I can get the tube out of the lower section!

 

Start a conversation with Chacal. The dealerships are not the best source of parts anymore.

The damper rod bolt is loctited in place. I use a box-end Wrench on an allan wrrech to get a bit more leverage (well I used to before I bought an allen socket set). Tapping is allowed. Standad threads.

 

watch the orientation of the bushings when they come out, if the ware is on one side, flip them 180 and get some more life from them, not the greatest but it works.

 

Nice tool

 

http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/fork-seal-question.40521/#post-353341

 

Exactly what I was talking about earlier.

 

Cool. I put the spring back in, applied a little pressure and was able remove the damper rod bolt.
Inner came out easily.

I have successfully removed the dust cover, a very rusty circ-clip and a "spring-washer" from below the oil seal.
What is the spring? that was under the oil seal..
Do I just go postal on the old oil seal b/c itis being replaced anyway or is there a trick?

The only thing I see that might be a bushing is the white split ring on the damper rod. This one looks pretty pristine to me.
Pic attached.


I've got part list and prices from Chacal... So just wondering...
- Dust boot
- Oil Seal Clip (The rusty mis-shaped one)
- Oil Seal
- Fluid drain plug and gasket
- Damper rod retaining bolt and gasket

 

H here's the spring that popped out from under the oil seal when I was trying to gently pry it out.

 

The spring is part of the oil seal. Throw it out; you don't need it.

The bushings that wear can't be seen until you remove the inner fork tube from the outer fork tube. The outer diameter of the bushings are copper plated.

The easiest way to remove the oil seal is to (after removing the circlip) use the inner tube like a slide hammer and pop the seal out.

Did you read the link I provided?

Here is another, detaling the 750 Seca forks. You can ignore the anti-dive parts and air collars since your bike has neither. The pictures; 1. are still there, and 2. will show you the bushings that are likely worn.
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threa...forks-rebuild-now-a-how-to.18730/#post-159261

and another

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/anti-dive-fork-explosion.41895/#post-368361

 

Sorry for being thick!
Thought I did...and many googles and site searches besides...

I still don't know where/what to look for regarding the bushings.
Are they embedded into the inside casing of the lower tube?
Inside the inner tube to guide the damper rod?
Is it for sure they exist on Seca-550?

Thanks for patience... again!

 

Where and when do they come out?

 

the copper brownish thing, this is the lower one
https://www.flickr.com/photos/chorca/3636724605/sizes/l/in/set-72157619536266119/

upper
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3373/3636746123_d58aff6c70.jpg

550's ...?

 

I have nothing like that on the one I have removed.... Maybe it's disintegrated...
Having some fun with the second damper bold... Will update after I get this one out.

 

Yes.

I need to walk my comment back a bit.
The Seca 550 does not have seprate bushings. Your question had me looking at the parts diagrams more thoroughly.

 

Yeah - I didn't see any bushings on the parts diagram either...
Is there something built into the lower "inside" that could wear?
Maybe I just don't need to worry about bushings! lol

 

Put the tubes in with a bit of fork oil on them and see how they slide. Don't put the springs in.

 

Once I removed the damper rod I noticed that there is a "ring" and some machined nibs about 2" up from the bottom of the inner/upper tube.
They don't look removable to me. Pics in a bit if I can get 'em... Still in work shirt.

I will include some snaps of "wear" marks on the chrome for comment as well. Hopefully these pics will help someone.

 

Hey,
And thanks everyone...

The upper/inner tubes slide easily, and seem to be machined well and fitting into the lowers without bushings. 'Cause there sure aren't any!
They slide smoothly without any lateral movement ...all the way in.
I didn't go down too far as there is some rust beyond the normal travel length.

However - There looks to be a bearing/bushing inside the lower opening of the upper tube ... possibly to guide the dampening rod.
This first pic shows the "ring" about 1.5" from the bottom of the upper tube.
On the other side of this ring it feels like there are bearings.. maybe 4 of them.
This doesn't seem to be able to be removed nor replaced!

The ring has some lateral movement and the dampening rod can be "rocked" on this pivot.
It sounds similar to the cracking noise I have been hearing when I hit a bump.
How tight should the dampening rod be through this bushing?
Does it sound worn out?
Can it be replaced?



My awesome drawing of the top tube "narrowing" below the dust seal, circclip and oil seal.


Another even better detail of the "bushing with bearings" for the damper rod.

 

Actually... I think I found it in the parts list - Which is incredibly detailed and helpful!
There is so much info I get lost unless I kow exactly what I'm looking for.

Way down this page... http://xj4ever.com/catalog/k.html

Inner Fork Tube Taper Spindle:
This oddly-named part is actually a tapered metal bushing that surrounds the lower shaft of the damper rod. If your taper spindle shows signs of wear (flat spots, gouges, scoring, etc.) then it should be replaced.

There are no flat spots, gouges nor scoring... just movement. But for $20 I'll change it.
But how do I get it out?

 

It should have come out along with the damper rod. Hmmm..... me have to go thinky for a bit.

 

Len says:

The components up inside the bottom of the chrome tubes do not get replaced!
I don’t think that they wear out, although I have no idea how much movement is “too much”.
The damper rod is kept if a fairly precise vertical position by virtue of its placement and shape
within the fork system.​

That's my research direction too.

 

You should be able to slide it out by using a wooden dowel as a "push stick".

 

That piece is what I made the "tool" for. It's just the damper rod.
That's the spacer spring and the rod (with the nylon bushing. They came out fine once I put together my extensions and was able to hold it.
There was a a conical bit on the end as well.
I'll post an altogether pic.. It's sure not the same as the other pics I've seen.

There's a stainless "washer", with what feels like bearings, still in the bottom of the chrome upper. It doesn't come out.

 

I'll try that.

 

The "stainless washer, with what feels like bearings" is a non-removable part.

I received 2 tapered spindles, 2 oil seals, 2 dust seals, 2 circ clips for the oil seal, 2 circ clips for the end caps, and 2 0-rings.
Cleaned everything up... some slight rust on some surfaces but where seals are made things look pretty good.

Everything is back together... except for the oil and end caps.

And the air is getting warmer.

 

Done and Done.

Seca 550

No bushings on these forks.
New oil seals, dust seals, o-rings, circ-clips, tapered spindles, 230cc of 10w fork oil.

I didn't lock-tite the hex bolt that screws into the dampening rod... Should I?

 

Yes.

 

.......... shoot! (profanity edited for politeness!)

 

Is Blue Loctite OK?
Should I be using Loctite on other fittings as well?

 

You want a medium-strength threadlock on any fastener that calls for it. High-strength threadlock requires heat to remove the fastener, and there is nowhere on an XJ where you need it.

Personally I use thread lock on any fastener that does not have a lock washer (and on those that do in some situations). It serves two purposes; preventing the fastener from loosening (proper torque takes care of that too), and preventing corrosion in the threads. Only 10-20% of the threads are in contact, the rest of the threaded hole (or nut) is airspace. Moisture will find its way there and corrosion will occur. The threadlock compound fills that space, preventing corrosion.

 

The 550 Seca forks do have bushings near the top of the LOWER (outer) fork tube, but none on the bottom of the chrome inner tube.....

 

chacal,
I don't see anything about bushings on the parts diagram.
And there certainly was nothing removable at the top of my lower tubes.

I did feel a slight indent in the casing... but everything seems tight.
Can you send info on the installation/cost/pic of those bushings?

 

They are not shown in the parts diagram, because they were never sold separate from the lower tube (when you bought a lower tube it came with the bushing already installed). If you look at the exploded parts diagram for an XJ750 Seca, the bushings are shown as separate items, called Metal Slide 1 (for the lower tube) and Metal Slide 2 (for the upper chrome tube, and it is shown in the wrong position, and depending on which year parts diagram you view, you might find it called a rebound spring when you "mouse over" the image, yes the diagrams are useful but just remember that they are as screwed up as you can possibly imagine..........).

I'll send you a conversation with the info.

 

Chacal,

I got your info.
Thanks

The "sliders" must be incredibly thin!
I assume they fit in the very slight depression @ the top/inside of the lower tube.

There doesn't seem to be any evidence that they were installed in mine when I purchased it in "refurbed" in 2001.
Perhaps it is the reason the shocks started making a clanking sound a couple of years later.

 

Sliders ordered and on the way.
Pics upon receipt and installation.