Gas leaking onto right (Front brake) side of engine? Wouldn't start after.

Hey everyone, I bought my first XJ yesterday, it's a 1982 650.

Ran amazing during the test ride, rode it 30 minutes home, let it sit for a half hour, rode it to the store and back and then parked it.

I came out this morning and immediately smelt fuel, checked and there was a puddle sitting on the side of the engine, after tipping the bike to get it off and letting it sit for a few (No more fuel to be seen after that so must be a slow leak?) I tried to start it and got nothing which is weird because the day before it would start up within 2-3 seconds.

To make things possibly worse after having to call for a ride to work, I turned the petcock onto what I thought would of been the off position to try and dry things up but after doing some research it looks like it's a prime position? Used after rebuilding the carbs I think?

I'm just stressing, I'm rushing to the DMV after work to register it and was really looking forward to being able to legally ride it tonight and to work tomorrow.

Where the bike is parked is on a slight decline but I didn't think that would make a difference.

I know I need to check the oil and make sure fuel didn't get in & check the plugs.

It's just really weird because the bike was running fantastic before.

The contacted the guy I bought it from and he seem's like a pretty cool guy, he's a retired motorcycle mechanic, said something about the bike has to straight up to start because of the vacuum operated petcock, I don't think he heard me about the gas? Anyway, he said he's stop over and get it fired up later tonight after I get home if I can't, just worried about the oil and obviously the reason it was leaking so I don't get stranded before or after work tomorrow if we do indeed get it running.

Thanks ahead of time!

Chris

 

Fuel should be in the ON position will only flow with vacuum . Prime is constant flow. It sounds like one or more needle valves is not closing or there is crud keeping it open. Only way to find out pull carbs , remove float bowls , remove floats and check needle and seat ...you need to look at church of clean. Xj4ever at top right of page has all the parts. You also need to have a filter between the petcock and carbs. Good luck

 

Thanks for the reply, I got it fired up after trying quite a few different routes, puffed a little black smoke, obviously flooded but no gas to be found, weird.

Oil smelled fine but it's getting a change tomorrow either way since I don't know when the last oil change was, I can still smell gas sitting 4 feet from it but we'll see in the morning but I'm definitely pulling the carb's probably this weekend and just checking over some things.

(Speaking of oil change, since I live in Florida where it barely drops below 40 degree's, is 20-50 a good grade? I keep hearing to stick with 10-40)

Trying to get this thing titled in FL is nothing like my home state of Iowa, what a PITA! Had to have a cop come to the house to do a VIN check)

Thanks again & Very glad I found this forum!

Chris

 

I've been using Shell Rotella T 15W-40 in my bike with no issues. I used to live in NV. If it works well in 120+ degree weather, it'll work just fine in your location.

 

Welcome if your like me you will get addicted to these ...you will cuss at it, swear you will just sell it, just when you want to give up you get it running just right and it is all worth it... I just got home from a 15 mile blast in the country ( would have went much further, but wife gave me look...if your married you will know "THE LOOK" LOL. It has taken awhile to sort my carbs out , but think Ive got it sorted. Just read a lot of posts start a conversation with Len at xj4ever. Take your time you will find alot of help on the forum . Also keep in mind even is you dump 6 to 7 hundred into bike still cheaper than buying a new bike....of course some don't want to work on bikes , personally this is only my 8th bike some here have had 30 or so ..cheers

 

Yeah I'm use to V-Twin's, still getting use to shifting any higher than 4-5K max, little nervous but the sound and pull makes it worth it, just keep thinking it's going to grenade lol.

 

Stay married 20+ years and you'll develop your own "THE LOOK".

Gary H.

 

They don't start getting fun until 5500! Things get exciting around 7-8k

 

Even at redline the engine is understressed. Don't worry, and enjoy the symphony.

20-50 won't hurt, but you really don't need it unless the engine is using oil, or you are riding hard all the time.

 

I had my wife's rebel on the highway yesterday. I'm used to a 4 cylinder but I thought for sure the rebel was done. Lol.

 

Anyone ever ride one of the older Kawasaki EX250 Ninjas? I worked at a shop a while back and test rode one, and when I came back one of the other techs asked me how I liked it. I said it was nice and light and all, but the motor was simply uninspiring. He told me to take it back out, but to wait until 13k to bang an upshift. So I went back out, and wow what a different experience! Little motors like to scream. Oh- and they are parallel twins.

 

I had an EX500 as my first street bike. Gobs of fun above 7k (not too bad below that either). I still miss that bike, even though it was not terribly comfortable for me. Vance & Hines 2-1 with a rejet to suit made it sound soooo good.

 

My SV1000S has a 11k redline and isn't happy under 3k. It's not the V twin motor, it's how it's designed

 

I refuse to work on Japanese V twins/fours. I have had way too many bad experiences with Honda Magnas, Kawi Vulcans, Suzuki Intruders, etc....anyone who thinks pulling the carbs on their XJ is difficult, go work on a V4 Honda or a 750 Vulcan. You will pray for the sweet release of death.

But back to parallel twins... @k-moe my first streetbike was a Honda CM400 that I scored for $75. I rode the wheels off that bike for 5 years and spanked on it mercilessly, holding it pinned WOT for 30 minutes a a time for an entire summer of commuting on back roads. It was perfectly happy and took it all like a champ.

 

I had an 88? Vulcan 750 before this, Stator went out, was told I'd have to basically pull the engine to replace it, no thanks, hoping this bike is a little easier to work on myself.

 

New update:

Bike won't start unless push started and will die if you dont keep the throttle up.

Seems like it's running on like 2 cylinders, clears up a little above 4K but pops etc.

I just left the dmv getting tags, so frustrating.

 

Pull the plugs. Which ones are clean(er), which ones are fouled(er)? This may be able to give you some insight as to which cylinders are missing. Going by the info in your initial post, I think you have some sticking floats that are flooding the motor. It is also possible that you have a coil failing, but we won't jump to that conclusion yet.

Another trick you could try is to crank the idle screw in to get it to stay running (albeit on less than 4 cylinders), and pull the plug caps one by one. If you pull a plug cap and the engine speed/smoothness/etc doesn't change, then that is the/a cylinder that is missing.

 

Great advice Drew.

I talked to the guy I bought it from who's a retired motorcycle mechanic and he's picking it up today and seeing what the issue is at no charge since I've been crazy busy at work lately, I'll update once I find out from him.

I'm thinking it's for sure carb related but you never know, just can't wait to get back on the road.

 

That's a nice guy. Any seller that will stand behind their bike like that is a stand-up individual. Even if he doesn't ask for any money for his time, some cold brews would go a long way I'm sure.

 

Definitely, he picked it up around noon today and texted me to let me know the third carb was leaking.

He doesn't want any money but he'll be getting at least a case of beer on my part, I'd prefer to pay him something at least but he's pretty stuck on not wanting anything in return.

Very good guy over-all.

 

How nice is he? Could I drop my xj off for a complete overhaul? Lol