Help Routing Wiring Harness

I actually considered taking pictures before I pulled all the wires out of my headlight but for some unexplainable reason I thought I'd remember how it all went. The manual shows the two thick harnesses criscrossing through the wire loop and then going up on opposite sides. I can't see how either of these could fit in any opening around the M/C... seems they both must come up around the fork stem on the left side. Is this correct? Then, from what I can make of the obscure Haynes manual, it shows both thick harnesses coming in through the bottom of the housing, and I seem to remember them coming in through the two big holes directly in back of the bulb? If anyone has any pictures that would be really helpful. Thanks

 

if you tell us what bike you have you will get better answers

your cammara is your friend you can never take to many photos or notes

 

It's an 82 750 Seca

 

The wiring harness comes forward to the headlight bucket from under the stering stem.



Pic is of the 650, but the 750 works the same way. It's easiest to route them with the bucket dismounted from the mounting ears.

Front view (lower diagram) of the routing on the 750.



The lower (square holes) are where the main harnesses come into the bucket. The upper (round) holes are where the instrument and switchgear wires come into the bucket from above.

The upper part of the illustration diagram the wiring placement inside of the headlight bucket (wires are retained by bendable tabs on each of the horns).

 

OK... well I figured that one out. Let's try another one... I'd like to test everything before I zip it all up... got all the wires hooked up in the headlight, have pieces of half inch thick wood between the brake pucks so the brakes will test, bike is up on the stand with the wheel off, all the warning tests are on, starter won't engage, battery has 11.9v (been sitting about a month). Only thing not hooked up is speedo cable. Am I missing anything obvious here?

 

Thanks for that. Dammit... I ran the harness around the left side of the frame. Maybe I've got a bad cannon plug connection.. rerouting might fix the no start problem when I unplug everything and replug it after rerouting.

 

Umm.... yes.

Charge the battery.

 

Dam... lousy tenth of a volt shuts this thing down. Now I'm concerned about this battery. It's only a few weeks old... had a full charge 3 weeks ago. I'd think it should have held enough to start the bike for that long. Trickle charged it over night a couple times and never could get it up over about 12.7 (Initially 13.5, then after the charger was off for about 15 minutes and it settled down it would drop about .8). Shouldn't it have held in the 13s with a full charge?

Anyway... thanks. I'll reroute the main harness and should be riding today... or by the looks of all the dark clouds pushing through the Chicago suburbs, maybe tomorrow.

 

A 6-cell lead-acid battery has a resting voltage of around 12.8 volts.

Learn more here:
http://batteryuniversity.com


It's just rain, with maybe some cool special-effects. Go ride

Back to symptoms for a sec. Is the starter still not turnng the engine over, or is it turning but not firing?
Do a voltage drop check at the battery. When you thumb the starter, what does the voltage drop to?

 

Loading the battery like this gives you a better indication of battery condition. Resting or open circuit voltage only tells you so much.

A battery that is no longer any good can give a normal open circuit voltage, but as soon as you load it the voltage will drop, sometimes near zero.

 

When I hit the starter the bike turns over and starts. I haven't checked the voltage on start up yet.... what should the max drop be? I've spent the last hour reconnecting the bowl of spaghetti inside the headlight housing. Got everything rerouted where it should go, or close to it. Bike starts, annunciator panel goes through and passes self check, turn sigs work, only problem is the turn signal flashers on the instrument panel stay on all the time. They flash when one of the turn sigs is on, but when there's not one flashing the yellow lights are on. Also... yellow sig lights on panel flicker a little. I'll have to look at the wiring diagram again... a little confusing about the grounds, some black/white go to black/white and some go to solid black.... actually, I only remember the turn sigs b/w going to solid black ground, all other b and bw had like wires to match to. (Hope that made sense... sounded a little confusing when I just read it).

 

(After reconnecting wiring in headlamp) Does anyone have any idea why the turn signal indicator bulbs on the instrument cluster stay on all the time? Turn signals work and indicator lights will flash, but go back to on when signal is turned off.

 

The only way that can happen is if something is hooked up incorrectly. Are the turn signals on unless flashing as well?

 

Yes, turn signals work fine, only problem is panel indicator lights stay on (also flash with turn signals but go back to on when signal is off)

 

That is very odd. Start by tracing the panel light wiring back to the signal relay.

 

OK... got it. Combination of design flaw and not being attentive enough when reattaching the plugs. Inside the housing there are two cannon plugs that both have dark brown, grey and black on identical connectors... however, if you actually watch what you're doing, you'll see that the black is in the middle on one set, and on the right side on the other. The confusing thing is that Yamaha used the same plug for both so it's easy to mix the two up. The majority of times when reattaching plugs to the harness it's a no brainer... usually the use of different cannon plugs eliminates the chance of getting it wrong. Not so in this case. When reversing the two plugs, it seems the only difference is the panel repeater bulb is hot with the ignition key. So.... looks like I will get to ride today after all... after the Bear game, unless they're playing like shit again this week. I'll give them till half time.

 

about the battery voltage drop
if it drops below 9.5 volts tci will not fire,


this link has electrical advice first post and bottom of page
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/



exceptional write-up on the electrical system on XJ-series bikes---the good, the bad, and the ugly---can be found at:

http://web.archive.org/web/20071214...ies.com/MotorCity/Speedway/7795/xjfaqbig.html

 

Design flaw? Have you never looked at the wiring on an Italian motorcycle? What Yamaha did is a vast improvement.

 

LOL.... I made the same comment to a friend this morning and he gave me a short lecture on inconsistencies of Suzuki wiring. I had a lot of love for Yamaha, very well thought out engineering for the most part. If I had designed this I'd have used different color connectors to save some poor sap the confusion. But then if I had designed this bike it would probably would have ended up looking something like this: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/11/bc/68/11bc68b4436b76d7298d8cb68309412b.jpg

 

+1. 30+ years from now the same things will be said about the current new bikes.

Gary H.