Fuel and Air questions (82 XJ1100)

This probably belongs over in the "stupid things today" thread, but a few serious questions. All this happened on a 1982 XJ1100 that I just picked up a few weeks ago...intending to ride it while I work on a XJ750 project. Brakes and headlights are first on the 750 project...I haven't graduated to fuel and electrical yet. Everything on the XJ1100 is stock and original except for the rearview mirrors. Anyway...

I was a moron and forgot to take the petcocks off of "Pri" around noon. I happened to pop into the garage at 7:30pm just in time to see the airbox gushing fuel out of the escape tube and a bad left seal. OK, so bucket catches a half tank of gas while I ventilate the garage for the other half tank on the floor. Everything gets dried out. Questions...

1. Even with the empty tank the bike started up like a champ. No issues running for a minute or so before I cut it off. Started up a second time even faster (2nd crank instead of the 5th). Should I be looking or testing for any particular fuel issues?
2. The boot to carb #3 had a slight leak while everything was flooded. In the wisdom of the forums, is there anything to investigate beyond a crack in old rubber?
3. The air filter (long rectangular half circle/tube style) is original and needs replacing. Any guidance on where I can hunt this down?
4. The seal on the leftside airbox housing is shot. I took out the seal and put screwed the plastic housing back on after everything dried out. Can I replace the seal...should I replace the entire cover...or is it better just to ignore this on the airbox? It feels like spec on fly sh** kind of stuff but I should ask to be thorough.

Thanks for any insight. I'm hoping the 1100 doesn't turn into a similar odyssey the 750 has become.

 

Do NOT start that again until you change the oil.
If everything truly is stock and original, pull the carbs, break the rack, clean and replace components as dictated by the Church manual.

Parts can be had by going to XJ4Ever in the upper right hand corner.

 

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-information-overload-hour.27544/

http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/in-the-church-of-clean.14692/

No offense to the OP. But can we get the above two links attached to 'new subscriber' sign ups and require they pass a small test that indicates that they, at best, reviewed the two links? There are times when I feel like a broken record.

 

^^^^+1 change oil first thing.

 

your journey has just begun
you have carb problems

 

Yes, change oil. Clean carbs. No starting again until you do. You're lucky that you didn't bend a connecting rod.

 

The idea to require the reading is nice, and yeah.... We feel like we are saying the same things many time.....BUT-- if we do that, my bet is that we LOSE a lot of potential members......I know that If I am required to read a whole slew of things to join a web group, I won't do it-----

 

No offense taken from me. I've been reading xj4ever and these forums for 6+ months and will take any reminders I can get. Should probably add bigfitz52's quest for brakes as well. At this point I know that if I don't want any issues with a motorcycle I should buy it brand new.

Anyway. HOW to clean the carbs and knowing WHEN to crack the carbs are two different subjects. What I haven't discerned is what indicates carb problems in this situation, and (I think) that is because I don't know what should happen on PRI when the float bowls are full.

 

What should happen in the carbs with the petcock on prime is that the float bowls fill with gas, until the floats lift the float needles, at which point fuel float from the tank is shut off by the float needles. As fuel is drawn into the engine the float levl drops, the float needles open, and the cycle repeats. The same thing happens with the petcock in ON or RES, but only with the engine running. When on PRI, stuck or leaky float needles, or needle seats, allow the tank to drain into the crankcase.

The point at which the rack should be split and rebuilt is the point when you have no idea how old the throttle shaft seals are. You can do all the other work to the carbs, and still have a poorly running (as in unrideable) machine if the throttle shaft seals have failed (and they will fail from just sitting).
I elected to wait on doing throttle shaft seals when I recomissioned a friend's bike. That was three years ago, and the carbs now have to come off for throttle shaft seal replacement. The bike has less than a thousand miles on it since I cleaned the carbs. I cost myself two weekends of time (travel time plus doing the work) by trying to save about an extra hour's worth of work by not doing the throttle shaft seals to begin with.

 

Thanks -- I assumed something didn't close correctly in the carbs when the bowls were full, that makes sense.

I'd bet dollars to donuts the throttle shaft seals haven't been touched. So I'll be reviewing the parts list and making an order to get on this. If there is a list of all the needed rubber and seal parts that need replacing in this effort I'd appreciate it.

 

IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN

 

Lower carb deluxe rebuild kit w/ metal tips for 4 carbs
New bowl drain screws
Set of fuel rail o-rings
Set of throttle shaft seals
Set of shim washers for throttle shaft seals
E-clips for throttle shafts
Mixture screw o-rings
Mixture screw washers
Mixture screw springs
Enricher plunger dust boots
Tube of blue locktite

 

Many reads coming on that for sure.

Thank you sir!

 

And it doesn't matter if it is required reading or not. There will always be someone that thinks they are smarter, and so they skim through, not really reading, just checking the block.

 

I love to read and learn, and will always continue to do so, but I'm against making a lot of reading a prerequisite.......