'83 Xj550 Seca Restoration Project

Hello everyone, this is my first bike and restoration project. There is a lot of work to be done as the bike has been left unattended for 15 years in a backyard. The bike has 22k miles and the previous owner has guaranteed that the engine was top notch last time he used it. This does not concern me as I intend to do a complete overhaul of the bike.
Since my budget is tight I'm going to do most of the work myself. This doesn't scare me as I am a mechanical engineer (I work as a custom tool designer in the aerospace industry) and I am no stranger at assembling the stuff I design (or telling other people how to do it properly).
However as I have no experience in motorcycle maintenance I will gladly accept any help and advice you can spare. I intend to update this thread weekly until the end.

(roll of drums) This is the XJ

The exhaust terminals are "gone"... the underside of both terminals is completely corroded and almost non existent (only the chrome skin is still here ).
There is some rust on the frame but nothing serious at first glance, apart from this:

As you can notice the welded "rib", where the rear brake footrest is fixed, is almost completely corroded and you can bent it by mere foot pressure.

If it was you, what would you do first?
Thanks for watching.

 

Wow! Never heard of part of the frame rusting that bad. No that it is not possible, just never seen one. But it sounds like the actual frame is good. So you can reweld on a new machined rib (mount). First step is to make a list of parts needed and cost. To this end, I would first check the health of the engine. Don't rebuild if you don't need too. That is a big cost savings. Before purchasing anything, take the spark plugs off and throw in some (Kano Labs' Kroil, or Marvel Mystry oil) or anything else useable to lube up and help free up the rings as a precaution before turning the engine. Let is soak a few days then turn the engine by hand (use wrench on left crank shaft end). If it turns freely, go to the next step. Assuming it has adquate oil in the crank case, spray starting fluid into each bore of each caburator (3 squirts, throttle wide open). With the battery hooked to a portable battery jumper, try starting it (throttle wide open) and see if it will run for a few seconds. If the engine comes to life then you are ahead of the game. You can try doing the same thing using normal fuel going the carbs. You may get lucky and it will run that way too with the help of some starting fluid. But most likely, the carbs and fuel tank need cleaning first. Starting fluid bypasses all those possiblities. Don't even need the carbs mounted when doing the starting fluid test. Furthermore, you will have to assume that the brake master cylinder, caliper, brake shoes and pads will have to be rebuild or replaced. Tires will need to be replaced. Doesn't matter how good they look. Fifeteen years sitting they deteriate. I wouldn't want to go 70+ mph on the highway on 15+ year old tires. Any speed for that matter. Needs new exhaust ( could go with 4 to 1). New seat cover (you can do that very easily yourslef). You will most likely need a new chain (rusted internally) and may as well replace the two sprokets at the same time.

If the engine did start, it will require the usual maintenance items. Do check compression first. But be aware. Low compression doesn't nescessarly mean it needs a rebuilt. Could be that it needs a valve adjustment, or the rings are stuck from sitting. Driving the bike for a 100 or so miles should free stuck riings. First do a valve check and adjustment if needed. Change oil and filter (use JASO-MA certified or meets this standard, for wet clutch motorcycles). Adjust the the clutch and lube cables. Clean and rebuild the carburators. Lots more which others can chime in. But I wouldn't tear the engine down if it doesn't need it.

At this point you know what you have and how much to invest. The frame can be restored with new repairs and powder coated or painted. I'm sure you will find many other small details which need attending. That is all part of the fun. Good luck and enjoy yourself. Nice find.

 

first you contridict your self with "Since my budget is tight" and "restoration project". how deep of a restoration are you going to do?

the first step is to make sure you have a viable motor. compression check after the pistons have been oiled as suggested above.
once you make sure motor is free you also need to do a shim check and adjust to spec then repete compression test.
test good clean and test electrical system . wiring and all connectors, clean all controlers on handle bars and lube do not forget the ignition switch . ohm out the charging system. ohm out the ignition system. if all checks out good to go time to start cleaning those carbs to see if bike will start. the tci has no real test except to see if it starts the bike.

 

and just to note your bike is a euro model so it is not a Seca (US bike)
this link will help with wiring it is the best wiring diagram you will find
http://lumien.se/stuff/xj550/XJ550ElectricalDiagram.html

 

Well my target is to have the bike in good shape again, maybe finish the all the details in the future. When I said that my budget is tight I meant that I'm going to do most of the work myself, as letting others do it will cost much more. AND this project will have a monthly budget as I can't afford to lay waste on my finances now that my firstborn is coming out...

 

check your inbox for link to a manual it is US seca but for most of the bike will be good for you
your Bike has dual disc and swirl wheels which the us Seca does not have

 

Click the first link in my signature.

 

Just found out that, since the previous owner had installed a top box, both rear seat chromed handle grips are missing... And of course the part is obsolete
In the next days I'm going to buy some ATF, mix it 50/50 with acetone and let it soak till saturday.

 

I was missing the "lift handle" as well. I found that they were just on the left side where you'd lift the bike onto the center stand. I bought a couple off e-bay, soaked in vinegar and cleaned them up. Installed the one I liked better and sold the other (nearly re-cooping my costs). They are out there. (like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-81-Yam...ash=item3f7e115f9d:g:PpwAAOSwTM5Y4HUC&vxp=mtr)

 

the grab bar is to help put bike on center stand. center standing the bike can only be done from left side due to the design of the center stand.
Very common for the grab bar to be lost with install of boxes.
the strap on seat is for the passenger to hold onto.

you could fab one from tubing until you find one.

 

Thanks for the link. I am glad there are many used parts around. In a worst case scenario, even if rusted, I can always have them chromed again.
I believe the euro model has two grips (one per side). Because the rear shock studs are both too long and the domed nut doesn't go all the way down. Anyway this is purely cosmetic and, as such, marked with "low priority" at the moment.

 

Welcome, agree make a list , make it safe first, new tires, brake hoses rebuild calipers , master cylinder, and while doing this rebuild forks seals are most likely dried out and may start leaking. Since bike appears to have stock airbox resist putting pods on , get bike to run , but carbs will need to be rebuilt go to church full tear down, spray carb cleaner will not cut it. expect to spend at least 300 to 500$ getting it up to snuff. This might sound high ,but in the end you will have a good running ,and very good looking bike, still cheaper than buying new.

 

Yes... Already leaking on the left side... lots of gunk on the slider.

No pods. Too much hassle and I prefer to keep this bike as close as possible to stock.

Well... I expected to spend between 1.5k and 2k € in a couple of years. The bike was free so, yes in the end it will still be cheaper than buying new.

 

We had the euro model here and I have yet to see one with handles on each side (I've had 4 of them)

 

I've done a small research last night and it seems there is a handle bar that goes from one side to the other, up the rear fairing. That explains the longer studs from both sides. However, I can make thicker washers for the nuts, to keep the shocks in position.

 

my Seca has thick washers on the shock studs to take up the space. that would be a nice touch adding hand bar across the back

 

I've been asking a few local resellers for ATF (of no particular brand or gradation, mind you) with no luck. You should have seen their faces
I think I will try first with some old trusty WD40.
As I have access to a virtually infinite supply of ISO 32 (low viscosity) and ISO 68 (high viscosity) hydraulic oil (we use it to lubricate CNC machine's transmissions) do you think it will do as well?

Btw should the engine be seized by rust (and I fear there are water infiltrations inside), will a cylinder rebore be necessary?

 

I've seen them called "lift handles," but they must have been available for both sides because the flat tang that connects to the shock stud is slightly angled up (or down, I don't know which it correct). It took some patience, but I found them on Ebay and installed them on both sides of my 82 650 Seca.

 

WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil.

ATF is automatic transmission fluid, which I'm certain is avaialble worldwide.

What you want is a light oil and a solvent to help carry it. Diesel and the oil you have on hand will do the job.

 

Somehow I was sure that wd40 had some penetrating abilities... Nevermind... I was going for the ISO 32 but in the end I got the ATF online from ebay. It should be delivered next week together with the starting fluid. ATF IS available in italy but not on the shelf as 90% here use manual transmissions (whose oil is what they wanted to sell me, W90 or W120).

Meanwhile I'll remove and empty the tank (still half full), hoping that the crankshaft will turn by hand (i.e. rust has not welded the rings to the cylinders).
Wife is almost ready to give birth, so updates could be slowed down in the next weeks. I'd like to thank everyone for the outstanding support

 

That's odd. Most of the manual transmissions here use ATF instead of gear oil anymore.

WD-40 is marketed as a penetrant/do-it-all oil, but it isn't very good at anything but the original intent; displacing water from electrical connetcors.

 

WD40 works as a fish attractant, spray it on your baits.

 

ok... I made some progress in the garage as I managed to get the tank out of the bike without spilling any gas from it. The tank seems solid, apart from the fact the key doesn't open it. The cap is stuck and I will try with some penetrating oil because WD40 has obviously failed me as everyone said it would. I will use it as a fish bait as Stumplifter said.
I removed the spark plugs from the external (1 and 4) cylinders to have a peek inside with my flashlight. AND to my relief there is no rust inside even on cylinder walls... Some carbon deposits on piston head but just spots.



And here is the plug


Now given the bad shape the bike is from the outside I was expecting the worst, but this doesn't seems too bad doesn't it?
I resisted from removing the other plugs (and put the other ones back) as the recesses of 2nd and 3rd cylinders are plagued with dirt, foliage residuals and dead bugs. I need to clean the whole bike, or at least the engine area before continuing. Any ideas on how to do it in a condo garage without flooding the floor?

 

Use a wet/dry vac and a brass brush. Put Simple-green in a spray bottle, spray the area you want to clean, scrub, vacuum up the mess. Follow with warm water in a spray bottle to rinse off the Simple Green (it can discolor the aluminum if left on), and vacuum that up as well.

 

It might be the angle of the image, but that sure is a VERY long reach on that spark plug..............

 

Mmm... Going to check the plug code and reach before attempting a test start

 

Having cleaned the head from all the dirt I decided to check the left crankshaft cover. Lots of svitol (a penetrating spray oil sold in italy) on all 4 screws, let it sit for some time and voilà... First three screws went out flawless. Last one didn't. Now the head is fobar,

Do you think it is better to try with an extractor and impact driver or to cut a slot for a large flat screwdriver?

 

I would get that crash bar out of the way first (another wrestling match with rusty fasteners - try some heat and paraffin). Then carefully cut a slot for a flathead, with left handed drill bit/extractor as plan B.

You are using a JIS screwdriver and not a Phillips yes?

 

Unfortunately a Phillips #2, after the first three screws I was confident that the fourth (and last one) would come out without problems. My bad.
Now to get the crash bar out of the way I need a "counter" wrench on the opposite nut. This is not a problem with the upper fastener, but for the lower one I need to get between the exhaust collectors. Provided there is enough clearance I will try with a 17mm wrench and a socket on the outside.

Damn JIS screws, I will exchange them for allen bolts.

The fuel cap is still stuck. No way to open it. Since there is still gas (a lot of it) inside I will try to drain it removing the petcock and then soak the cap upside down with atf/acetone. The main switch is also stuck, the key goes down, you can press it but does not turn.

 

I had to use an impact driver to get one of mine out, but that was before any damage was done to the screw head. I agree with removing the crash bar before proceeding. My impact driver has a phillips and a flat head tip. If you can get your hands on one I would carefully cut the groove so that the flat head fit tightly and try that before going to the extractor.

 

how to clean switch Clean and lube the ignition switch

gas cap cleaning
Your Gas Cap and You

 

That feeling when every guide you need has already been written...

 

Use a cold chizel (carefully) on the head to spin her out. Tap, tap, tap.

 

Since you mentioned it....
Stuck Fasteners: The Hammer and Chisel method

 

Today the courier delivered the ATF and I promptly mixed it with acetone. I asked for a chisel from the assembly dept. and I was ready to proceed. Plugs 1, 2 and... 3... Something was wrong with #3... Too much resistence... Checked the thread and noticed some metal chips and half turn of the thread on the plug. I tried to clean the thread the best I could but putting the plug back was difficult. Now the plug goes all the way down (somehow hard) but I don't know if it sits correctly.
Should I repair the thread with an helicoil? Do I need to open the head to do this?
Also I checked the plug code and I have DPR8EA-9 on my engine, manual says i should use D8EA. Gap is different but they have the same heat range and reach.
Do you know what? This is getting interesting

 

Dont panic with teh plug thread! If you only dragged out half a turn of aluminium you might be Ok by 'cleaning' it up. You can
buy a TAP for this or something similar (name escapes me) like a thread runner to try an re-form what you have. Helicoil is possible if this does not work but do it before you fill the cylinder with gunk so you can hoover out any swarf ..

I take it the chisel is to tap round the cover screw as suggested and not to do with the plugs.

 

spark plug should be non resistor but you need to check the spark plug cap (boot) resistance could be PO went with non resistor caps and compensated with resistor plugs

 

I can ask one of our suppliers for a M12 x 1.25 tap, no problem with that, or even a helicoil kit. And I have tapped a few holes myself (hmm... ) The problem is that I already filled the cylinder with ATF/acetone ( my thought was: even there is a problem with the thread at least the rings will start soaking) but I think the mixture is thin enough to be cleaned with an air gun or a vac. Here at work we usually grease the lateral cutting gaps of a tap to catch the metal shavings but some will always fall inside. As far as I know, the softer aluminium won't harm the hardened steel of cylinder and rings, so will a few turns by hand of the crankshaft expel the shavings (with the help of vac or air gun) or they will be trapped forever inside waiting for someone to rebuild the engine?

Yes it is. lol
The schedule was 1) remove plugs, 2) fill cylinders with health/resurrection potion, 3) put the plugs back, 4) remove seized screw with chisel, 5) check the crank end nut.
I stopped at 3. Maybe the PO cross-threaded the plug and forced it down the head. Maybe it's my fault. Maybe the aluminium was corroded or bonded with the plug thread.

How I do recognize a cap between being resistor/non-resistor? Code or ohmmeter?

 

The easy way is to take the cap off of the wire and measure the resistance. Some of the resistor caps have a slot for a screwdriver inside the cap so the resistor can be replaced when it burns out.

 

The hiatus is due to a future xj owner being born on sunday morning at 6:00. He weights 3.3 kilos for 51cm of lenght and he is already going strong.

 

Congrats I make that 7lb 4 oz ! You now have approx 6-12 months before things start to get tricky - use your time wisely ;-)

 

After a couple of weeks of adapting to the new parental status (looking after someone who fiercely PRETENDS to be fed every 2-3 hours isn't easy for total noobs like me and my wife), I found the time (thanks to someone else who kindly sacrificed for the cause) to get some work done with the bike.
Yesterday I removed the crash bar and attempted to remove the seized JIS screw with the chisel. After one hour of wrestling and countless TAP TAP TING TAP TIIING, the screw is still there, more scarred than before, but still there. So at the moment that @!#?@! screw is still winning the game and I invested a small amount of money to get an impact driver and a screw extractor set.

Meanwhile I decided to move my attention to the tank. The cap is still stuck and a colleague of mine suggested to turn it upside down hoping the gas still inside will somehow release the mechanism. I don't believe it will but I thought trying won't hurt.
After turning the tank upside down I noticed that the fuel petcock and the gas level sensor are two separate assemblies and, like many other parts, the screws are rusted and they won't come out easily without a proper JIS screwdriver and the adequate amount of torque. So I poured the ATF mixture on them and put the tank away to let the oil soak.
Can I use an impact driver on those screws or will I damage the tank?

 

you may dent the tank with a impact driver when you strike it with a hammer.

 

I found a set of vice grips works well on some of those stripped out JIS screws. The heads seem chunky enough to grab onto. Another option, grind a slot for a straight blade screwdriver. Careful about sparks, obviously!

 

Hello everyone. Good news and not so good news.
The impact driver with #3 PH bit unlocked the seized JIS screw and I was able to remove the ignition cover. Much to my surprise the inside looked like new. The crankshaft turned CCW with almost no effort spitting the oil/acetone mixture everywhere through the plug holes (and everywhere means on me too). So this is good news I think.
The fuel petcock screws were almost as seized as the ignition cover ones, so instead of wrestling with screwdrivers I decided to use my new set of screw extractors and my cordless drill. WHAM, those rusted screws were out in no time. This is good news I think.
Petcock out, I drained all the gas inside the tank. Meanwhile I decided to use a little brute force on the fuel cap and finally the key turned clockwise. The cap was out. Still good news.
Now the not so good news.





The tank is full of gunk, rust and rust scales. A friend of mine suggested to clean the tank first with water, nuts and bolts. Then rinse with alcohol and then use ortho-phosphoric acid to remove the rust. My idea was to first clean the tank then seal with epoxy to be 100% sure from a structural point of view. Do you think the petcock and the cap can be saved?

 

I think Hogfiddles did an excellent write up on what needs to be done to properly rebuild the factory petcock. It is similar to taking your carbs to the Church of Clean. However it is easy to replace the petcock, they are relatively cheap. Be sure to either replace with NOS Yamaha or get one with a vacuum port. There are threads on changing to a non-vacuum operated petcock but why mess with what works?
Tanks are not replaceable, save it at all cost! Look into the electrolysis method of rust removal if you want something to talk about when people ask you about the bike later on. It is relatively simple but a little time consuming. The cap could probably be saved.

 

many ways to clean the tank
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removing_rust_from_a_gas_tank

http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html

http://www.moreg.org.au/dissolving_rust.htm

http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/32838

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php...val-no-frills-easiest-fastest-cheapest.48196/

http://www.robertscycle.com/chrome-clean.html

 

IMHO I would try to avoid using a tank liner like epoxy unless absolutely necessary (Only if you have a small leak). They can fail if not properly applied (tank cleaned properly). In which case, the are a pain to remove. Which cleaning method you choose depends on the cost and if you are trying to save the paint. I would tend to use one which does the least harm to the metal since XJ tanks seem a bit thin compared to others I have restored. Last XJ tank I did with vinegar and it leaked at the bottom seems. But that could have been like that to begin with. A product like Evapo-Rust works very well and protects the surface thereafter. Like BigShankHank mentioned, these XJ550 SECA tanks are very hard to source. So you will want to salvage this one at all costs.

 

in his part of the world that is the only style xj550 issued no maxims a replacement tank may not be that hard to find.

 

at the low price of 550€ for a new (old stock) one I will salvage mine at all costs.