oil change xj 650

Hi everyone,
I am a noob with motorcycles and this is my first ride.
I almost have everything ready for a first ride besides an oil change....
I have bought the appropriate filter and oil, just need to know where on the bike to pour in the new stuff.
is it the knob on the transmission on the right hand side of the bike?
thanks !

 

Yes right side of bike......in the oil filler hole

 

the oil cap is on the clutch cover

bike goes on center stand to check oil level

 

what year and type of 650 do you have?

 

Just to be certain of this (veri impotent since you have a 30+ year=old motorcycle), read the following link and report back.
The Information Overload Hour

The reason I wan you to re-think the readiness of your machine is because motorcycles rarely get maintained properly, and your life depends on your motorcycle having been maintained properly.

 

Thanks for the pic instruction !

its a 1980 xj650 maxim I believe.

 

vin check time
go to this link and put your vin number in
http://www.dissingermoto.com/

short from motor and long from headstock stamped in on right and mayby a white tag on left


650's:

1980-81 XJ650 Maxim USA: 4H7
1980-81 XJ650 Maxim Canada: 4H8

1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim USA: 4W5
1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim Canada: 4W6

1982-83 XJ650 Maxim USA: 5N8
1982-83 XJ650 Maxim Canada: 5N9

 

I got
World Manufacturer Identifier:

J = Japan, Y=Yamaha, A= Motorcycle

Vehicle Characteristics

4H800 = 1980 XJ650 Maxim Canada

Check Digit:

5

Model Year:

A = 1980

Assembly Plant:

A = Iwata City Production Facility

Serial Number:

001046 is the Serial Number.

which fits with what was on the paperwork

 

So after adding the oil in , about 2.6 L I tried to turn the bike on and im getting a red oil lite indicator on.
What could be the issue? i have read some of the other posts on the fourm but couldnt find anything.

 

update, red oil light turned off after I turned it on and off again hitting start, however bike is still doesnt turn on or even try to turn over.
Battery is 80% full but im still charging it up to full at 2 A and the only thing I have done since the bike ran fine with the old black oil was adjust the cutch and perform the oil change and filter change.

 

You may not have put in enough oil, there is a float switch which triggers the low oil light and stops you from starting the bike when th oil is low. There should be a number stamped near the oil filler that says the oil capacity. For example on my '82 US 650 Maxim it's 2500cm3, which is 2500cc's. Take your number and convert that to quarts or your standard oil bottle size (is oil still measured is quarts in canada?) and put that much oil in. I also put in a very small amount of extra oil, because sometimes under hard braking the oil will slosh around and cause the float to think the oil is low

 

does oil light come on when you press starter button it should as part of a test of the bulb. the bulb grounds through the starter button. if light comes on starter button is grounding as it should. is the run switch in the correct position?
next is to chase voltages along ignition circuit.
do you hear the relay click when you turn key on does neutral light come on?

 

So I investigated the fuse box, and i blew the 10A ignition fuse presumably when I was mashing the start button?
After swaping the fuse with a fresh 10A one I am getting the same issue before the red light went away (presumably when i blew it)

-switch on run
- in neutral green on
-red oil on without touch start button
-am getting a click when turning key

with this im getting no response from star button.

Thanks alot for the help, I couldn't trace this down without it !

 

have you put bike on centerstand to check oil level in sight glass window? oil should be between the 2 lines but on the high side. if oil level correct could be the oil level switch is bad/gummed up.
do you have a multi meter? or a test light?
go to the solinoid there is a 2 wire connector (small wires) one wire brings voltage to solinoid the other wire goes to the starter button. unhook connector
you will be testing connector that goes to harness

with key on there should be 12 volts at one wire and the other wire connects to ground by way of starter button.
so find the 12 volt wire first . black probe to battery ground and red probe to wire to find voltage.
if you have a test light clip to neg on battery use probe to find 12 volts.
after finding 12 volts you need to test ground
put lead on plus battery terminal other lead on the other wire and press starter button you should get 12 volts or test light should light.

if you do not get light/12volts testing to starter button starter button needs to be cleaned or replaced.

 

you can see the oil light in the dark area of the drawing. fpllow L/W wire to diode . as you can see it gets voltage from run/kill switch then goes to ground by way of oil level switch if oil is low or byway of starter button when pressed.



starter relay is the solinoid R/W red white wire is 12 volts and the L/W wire goes to starter switch to ground


also test the starter by jumping with old screw driver across the 2 large nuts (big wires) on the solinoid/starter relay to see if starter spins.

 

here is something for you to look at


http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-test-your-starter-circuit.7828/

 

The oil level switch will not prevent the bike from starting, it would start even if there was no oil in it. The switch just lights the indicator. If you're sure there is enough oil in there (550 posted that earlier) you can ignore the light as those switches do get gummed up. Your next situation is to sort out the starter circuit, 550 posted up good info for that.

 

So i tested with volt meter at 10 A and ended up burning up the start button, but before I did i only found 1.5 V between power and battery ground .
rookie mistake i figure?
when I disconected the harness from solonoid the red light went off, does this mean anything?

 

side note, also topped up brake fluid before the oil change so Not sure if that could have effected anything.
Also the bike ran very well before this and started with problems so im having difficulty understanding how oil change = bike no start

 

starter spins, just tested.

 

Try to jump it with a good auto battery. If it works, you have a bad battery. Wouldn't be the first time.

 

what did you hook the meter to set to test amps?

 

Huh, I swore on my brother's 550 Maxim it cut the ignition, oil was a bit low and under hard brake the oil sloshed and the light came on, then ignition shut off and start button did nothing until the key was turned off and back on. Maybe that was a different problem happening at the same time, I better look into that then

 

I'm not familiar with the 550 max but I can say with 100% certainty that the bike in question will start either oil light on.

 

yes it will as the starter button tests the oil light. if the oil light is on due to low oil the bike will also start and if your diode block is bad when oil is low enough to turn on light the starter will spin when you turn key on

oil light coming on will not shut down the bike that would be deadly by design.

 

Phone typo. I meant the bike will start if the oil light is on due to low oil or stuck float. Just confirming for the OP that the oil light being in will not prevent it from starting. Yes I'm aware on the starter button testing the light when depressed. We meant same thing, stupid phone typo.

 

Good point. Good for power washers, bad for bikers in a lean.

 

I ment 10 A fuse on the multimeter which is why I think i melted some plastic, will try with a light voltage tester since i got new bulbs for it tonight

 

fresh battery in already so shouldnt be a problem

 

Hate to keep piling on, but...
Do not ass-u-me a new/ fresh battery is good. Check the standing voltage and the voltage drop when cranking to verify that the battery is good.

 

you have no need to do any amp tests on your bike, if you did what I think you did , then that is why your starter button melted.
voltage tests or continuity tests only.

 

the issue is that the system doesnt crank unless i short the solonoid.
start button grounds
kill switch has continuity when on run
coil cranks solonoid when shorted
will try to start with a different battery but besides that what could be wrong?

 

yes I learned the hard way. however I was doing a voltage test following your instrtuctions but with the multimeter without a fuse.

 

Are the bars swapped out? The 1980 uses the handlebars as the ground for the start switch. You should be able put a meter (on the 12V or higher setting) or a test lamp on the blue/white wire on the solenoid and the positive of the battery and get voltage or a light when you press the start button. If not, you need to check that wire for continuity. There are connections in the headlight that may need to be cleaned up or the switch itself should be taken apart and cleaned.

If that is good, then check for 12 volts on the Red/White wire going to the solenoid and the negative of the battery. There should be 12 volts there when the bike is in neutral or clutch is pulled in.

If both these tests pass, you may have a faulty solenoid. Unhook the wires and give us the resistance reading across the blue/white and red/white.

 

so an update, i cleaned the kill switch and installed, however now the bike neutral light doesnt turn on nor do break light or turn signals.red light still on, and gets brighter after run on kill switch and key is turned after 3 seconds
it feels like im getting farther and farther from actually fixing anything...