1982 maxim 750 cam chain tensioner replacement

Ok got a new tensioner. Only thing is I forgot to take a picture if the teeth for the tensioner go in on top or the bottom. Is it possible to put it in upside down? LOL

 

Look at the flange. It only mounts one way.
Why did you need a new one?

 

Hey k moe. I have a rubbling shudder at 60 65 mph. When i first got the machine long ago it was very very faint. Now its getting pretty concerning. Thought maybe was cam chain tension but that wasnt it. Going through the dive line now. Thinking may be a u joint. Changed the rear diff lube and nothing unusual in the drained oil. The rear wheel drive gear wasnt dry but was a little light on grease. Need to test ride it again. If it still shudder / rumbles at 60 65 may swap the u joint and check the back lash. I didnt wanna push past 65 to press my luck. Around town bike rides and runs great. No shudder slash rumble at all. Its not wheel balance either.

 

that's kind of a new one
do you hear it or feel it
does it go by engine speed or mph
only in 4th, 5th, 3rd ?
i would think a u-joint would do it all the time and get worse at higher speed
you can check the backlash but adjusting it with the motor in the frame would be tricky.
wheel bearings, cupped tires, bent wheel, swing arm bearings, brake rotor ?
what kind of bike is it? a chain might do that

 

Its a 1982 maxim xj750. 24k on it. It is a wierd one. Ariund town and up to 55mph or so nothing. Next ride this weekend i will hit a back road and see if i can recreate it at a lower speed and gear but same rpm. I think it was 5 to 6k on the tach and know 5th gear for sure. And its definatly felt not really heard

 

I know the XJ650's have a 'buzz' at around 5k, it is a harmonic thing - felt more than heard (I feel it in my left foot).

But your tires (bearings, etc) - as Polock mentioned... What is there age/ condition?

 

How old are the tires? Has the bike sat in one spot for a few seasons? Could it be vibration due to a flat spot or wheel out of balance?

 

Less than 1k on the dunlop 404s and bearing front and rear. But will double check for any play. Not a buzz and hard to tell exactly where its coming from thus yet. More of a low frequncy vibration or rumble

 

Check for missing wheel weights, or signs of tread separation.

 

do you have a windshield?

 

Yes I do have a windshield. Rode around a bit today. Around town 1-5th gears no shudder even at 5 to 6000 rpm in first and second gears. Highway it does shudder. Its not due to a windshield. It shudders and then stops for a split / half second then shudders for about a second and repeats. Its not wheel balance or bad rubber. Its not from a windshield either. I also have a steering damper that stabilizes highway windshield issues. shudders from about 5200 rpm and up and does not stop with higher rpm either at least not up to 7500. so from about 60 mph and up. Strangest darn thing Ive ever encountered and Ive been riding since 1970-71 age of 5 or 6 bike was too big had to grown into it, the 1969 Yamaha 63cc mini enduro white. LOL Main bearings maybe but you'd think the shudder would be constant.

 

maybe it minimises it but it can't eliminate it altogether. and this

try just changing the angle or height and see what happens

 

I will take the shield off for the next ride and see what happens. Thanks for the help guys. Much appriciated.

 

update ?

 

Didnt get a chance to hit the highway yet. The kid and i are visiting colleges this week. Ganna ride it tomorro. Also ganna bench test it so to speek at 5 and 6k in neutral then 1st gear at 5 and 6k on the cente stand to double check and make sure its only 5th gear and with no strain on the drive train to see what happens with out the weight strain/ pressure on the drive train. Then highway with no shield. The shudder doesnt seem to be in the front end. No handle bar vibration but need to double check on that too.

 

i did that once, scarry stuff

 

Polock yes ya better make sure ya have the front end strapped down lol. Ok heres the update. No shudder fist second or third gear at 5k and up. Took the shield off. No change in shudder. Its at 63 mph and up. So I decided to yank the wheels and check the balance, although the tires were balanced less than 1k ago by the bike shop when the tires were installed. I put the tires on and took them in for balance. Chalk another one up for incompetent mechanics. The rear wasn't terrible but it was out 1/8 of an ounce, the front was out a hair over 3/4 of an ounce. Kmoe and Maatythunderrr I think were correct on the balance of the wheels. When both heavy spots aliened it would explain the shudder pause shudder pause. I rarely let anyone work on anything of mine just for this reason but I figured I would treat myself once seeing I am in my 50's now. Go figure. Last time I let anyone work on a bike of mine was in 1996 and they fed it up as well. LOL Never again. If you don't do it yourself it wont be right. Witch brings me to my next question. I ordered weights because I don't have the correct ones on hand. But ya cant find the factory style weights. I ordered the K n L's they were the only things that would mount center rim. I really didn't want to beat a auto wheel weight on it and it wouldn't be centered either. What is everyone using these days. The sick on weights are too wide and wont make full contact on the rim not to mention I want the weight centered to the rim not on the side anyway. I have a 18 inch Seca rear rim with a tire on it so I slapped it on to see what would happen and ripped down the highway and it was an improvement but not a victory. I used to use it for long highway trips to cut down the rpm 70mph with the scea rim is about 5100 rpm in case anyone is wondering compared to 56-5800 with the factory 16. I'm going by memory on the rim sizes but I know the seca is 2 inches larger I believe. Didn't look at the sizes today. I can change the gearing on a shaft drive!!!! LOL

 

Random thought from left field: could the drive shaft be out of balance?

 

I use stick-on weights. They come in several sizes, and can be placed on both sides of the rim if you're picky about symmetry. Having the weights offset from center has no negative effect on wheel balance or side loading. IF you have concens about the weights sicking out past the edge of the rim, the weights can be trimmed. I often find that I need to trim a weight anyway to get the balance correct.

 

these 3 weights are on my bikes and they just space them different to get balance ends up like the olds style gravity balance on cars instead of spin style balance

Balancer, Wheel (10G) U.N.

1A1-25399-00-00 5MT-25398-00-00

$7.96

12
Balancer, Wheel (20G) U.N.

1A1-25398-01-00 5MT-25398-00-00

$7.96

12
Balancer, Wheel (30G) U.N.

2M0-25399-00-00 5MT-25398-00-00

 

What are these? Have a picture? Links don't have pictures

 

Clip-on wheel weights.

 

Mattythunder I also thought maybe the shaft itself was out of balance and or had some worn teeth on it. But ive mellowed out in my older ager and don't do many wheel stands anymore that may have tweaked it. LOL Kmoe the front rim doesn't have much for them to stick due to shape and my stick ons suck. They barely stick to anything. and Ya I had the saw zaw out trimming them too. LOL The rim shape just isn't conducive to making them stay on. Little more meat on the rear but I don't trust mine for now anyway. I had one weight and it worked out that the rear balanced out with it. The front I took a regular automotive weight and bent it to clip onto the rim till the K n Ls come in. Prolly take a long test ride next chance but this coming weekend is the start of archery. So most likely wont be riding then. Time to fill the freezer with meat and have fun doing it. I've got a crossbow with and ATN Xsight on it. LOL XJ550H thanks for the info as well.

 

Kmoe those look like the K n Ls I just ordered.

 

stick your weights on with this and the next problem will be how to get them off
http://3mauto.com/3m-scotch-mount-molding-tape-03614.html
AutoZone

 

I've had no issue with the Motion Pro stick-on weights.
As with all adhesives, surface preperation is key.
For a bit of insurance, you can use an old racer's trick, and cover the weights with a strip of 100 MPH tape.

That 3-M tape Polock linked is almost too sticky. In my limited experience, removal requires heat and dental floss, and sometimes solvent.

 

oem wheel weights that clip onto the center rib of the wheel.
part numbers are old number and new number 10,20,30 gram weights

 

Heh it's funny, I can't even remember the last time I saw clip on weights on a motorcycle Been a long, long time.

 

should i mention balancing beads ?

 

I've always wondered how they'd work in a motorcycle tire. I get the theory, and how they're used in large truck tires, but motorcycle tires are a very different animal, and the usage is typically quite different. Never wondered enough to try, mind you, but wondered nevertheless.