XJ 650 Head Pipe Gasket Replace and Stud Removal

Hey everyone,

new xj650 owner and just went to replace my head pipe gaskets and pipe 2 has a sheared stud sitting "below flush" as seen in the pic. Didn't seem to be leaking but its only been connected by one flange nut since i've been riding it.

Am I screwed in trying to get that out and put a new one in? Any advice on how to make due?

Also, should I clean out he carbon deposits inside the engine that are pretty caked... if so what should I use?

Thanks a bunch!

 

see if your local machine shop can extract it for you .might be able to do it without removing motor. removing motor may not be fun but cheaper than removing head.

you could run seafoam in your gas or other fuel additive that claims to remove deposits. no real need to remove it.

 

Eddie,
That's not too big a deal. But it isn't in one of the easier to reach spots as the frame is likely gonna cause you to use a compact right-angle drill vs. a standard drill.

I've pulled literally hundreds (probably thousands) of broken bolts during my profession in Industrial Maintenance. Here's some pointers.

#1 -One of the (if not the) most effective method to remove broken bolts like this is with a LEFT hand cutting drill bit. A proper center punch mark, a little Aero Kroil Oil lube, a little heat and the thing might just pull out while the drill is cutting. If you don't have Aero Kroil.... PB Blaster is pretty good and certainly better than WD40, but nothing compares to AERO KROIL. Period!
#2 - The standard drill a hole and easy out. Here the key is a nice and warm-hot but not blistering hot. Better to upsize the easy out than try one too small and snap the easy out.... Then there's a real mess trying to get that F*&$^$*& out. Personally, I like the FLUTED easy outs more than the twist version (especially for the small stuff) but I also like those in the blue case from IRWIN a LOT and they are the twist style.

Your pilot hole MUST be as perfectly centered as possible! Take your time...... GO SLOOOOOOW drilling and pulling the broken stud... and use a proper tap wrench not an adjustable as your destined to break the easy out
.

Hope that helps...

KURT

 

Thanks KURT! Got the Kroil ordered I'll give it a go early next week. The gasket seals were definitely shot thanks to Chacal for having parts so readily available.

 

I'll add that sometimes it's better to drill the fastener out (at the minimum diameter of the thread) and pick out the remainder than it is to use an extractor.
Go slow when using an extractor. The moment you detect any amount of twist in the extractor STOP; it's about to break.
Worst case, you can drill it oversise and use a Helicoil.

The slower, somewhat annoying, method is to dissolve the remnant with a solution of water and alum. This will work, but you have to make a retaining dam out of clay, and keep the solution warm (the wamer it is the faster it works). The upside is that you're left with the original tapped hole, and there is no risk of damage to the head. The downside is the amount of time involved (it can take several days for the fastener remnant to dissolve). Note that this will only work on steel (or iron) fasteners that are in nonferrous metals.

 

That's an interesting idea, alum, used to dissolve steel. Need to look into that.

 

took me 15 hrs on a hot plate to partialy dissolve a tap that was broken off in a master cylinder hole. it fell out.

you could see the bubbles pouring out of the screw hole as the tap dissolved. damn PO he was tapping a hole that still had a screw in it. he should have used a bottom tap. ended up picking up a used mc

water too hot to put your finger in but not boiling