Quick question

just looking for a little info. Can anyone tell me how much Sold as a set, the front fender ,the gas tank, and rear fender for a 700 maxim X ready to paint would be worth?

 

its worth what you are willing to pay for it.
what Does ready to paint mean?

tanks on ebay are running 100$ to 140$ including shipping do not look very good condition.
fenders about 25$40$ each with a nos at 175$

 

The real trick will be finding a buyer who needs all three parts.

 

Well I’ve got the set and they will be primed and ready for paint for whom ever buys them

 

And by ready to paint I mean all body work done and primed all you’ll have to do shoot paint and clear coat

 

if the paint buyer uses is compatable to yours

 

It’s auto primer not sure what you mean by that?

 

I’m not painting for simple reason I'm a decent painter not professional, I would love to be but being honest I’m not I’ll paint my own vehicle but I cannot guarantee a good enough paint job body work and primed I can say pretty damn good though I enjoy doing bodywork I’ll paint my own I just know other people have other expectations so as far as bodywork and primer you’ll take it to a paint shop and they’ll be more then happy I just know paint and clear y’all have your own expectation

 

not all paints (auto included) are the same or compatable with different brands(even Primers)

buyer can strip the primer easy enough. just tell buyer what brand paint you used.

 

I think that your best bet it so look at Ebay listings for the same individual parts that are in similar physical condition (no bodywork needed). Watch the listings for a bit and see what they actually sell for. It's rare to see a full set offered as a package, and I'm not sure if that's an advanage or not.

 

Which primer is the best to use?:

In our opinion, there is nothing tougher, more durable, more compatible, and meets all of the above requirements better than an EPOXY BASED PRIMER. It bites into and holds tight into the underlying material......all types of metals, fiberglass, and all hard (rigid) plastics.....like an angry junkyard dog. It's moisture-proof like no other (you prime something with epoxy and then leave it out in the rain for a year, and still paint over it without any fear of moisture having crept through to the underlying surface). It's compatible with almost every paint material that you can throw over it, and it will man-bond with those topcoat color paints like soldiers in a foxhole during the mother of all battles.

BUT, epoxy primer is very thin, it doesn't "build" up a thickness very well, and is difficult to sand and "shape". Epoxy primer is not a "filler primer" or "primer-surfacer" (as such products are known in painter-talk), and so......since the primer finish must be "perfect" before you should proceed with the application of the color paints, what should you do?

Here's what, and this is the secret that all the truly high-dollar, show-vehicle painters use, and which we think that you should use, too:


URETHANE PRIMER. Urethane primers have excellent compatibility with most paint topcoat products, and are excellent "fillers", easy to sand and smooth and shape and form into the finish necessary for your color paint to go on smooth and achieve that deep, mirror-like finish. But, urethane primer does not adhere, or "bite", into the underlying surfaces anywhere near as well as epoxy primer does, and urethane primers do especially poorly on bare metal.


So here's the secret: you use both an epoxy and urethane primer: first, you lay down the thin epoxy primer to get the that "T-Rex Bite" into the underlying surface, the moisture lock, and the grabbing strength for the next, overlying product, which will be................the urethane primer, which is workable, sandable, and which will bond strongly and completely with the urethane X-ACT MATCH BODY AND FRAME PAINTS which you're going to spray next.

This the "best of both world's approach" and is the key to building and achieving that "proper foundation" that we talked about earlier.

 

I’m not painting for simple reason I'm a decent painter not professional, I would love to be but being honest I’m not I’ll paint my own vehicle but I cannot guarantee a good enough paint job body work and primed I can say pretty damn good though I enjoy doing bodywork I’ll paint my own I just know other people have other expectations so as far as bodywork and primer you’ll take it to a paint shop and they’ll be more then happy I just know paint and clear y’all have your own expectation

 

advertised as primed . you could get about 200$ for the set based on what is currently on ebay

 

why is it that quick questions never get quick answers?

 

Thanks y’all for the help I appreciate it.

 

Due to the verbose nature and helpful attitude of the websites' demographic, combined with certain members who feel the need to continuously add their input to ongoing discussions, responses trend toward lengthy size. Compounding this is the echo chamber factor, where discussions spin out of control, spiraling out to different topics of interest to the group, including such diverse topics as beer, bacon, barbeque, bourbon, blues, Rush, etc., but never politics.

 

Therefore, short answers are not only improbable, but nigh on impossible, escalating towards encyclopedic volume and containing not only the entire world of xj discourse, but also an amalgamation of our modern culture and all its trappings. Some commentators cherish this trove of knowledge, while others voice a preference for more succinct response. Regardless of which camp you reside in, value can be found in both short and long threads.

 

something tells me you were just getting started

 

Polock prefers brevity.

 

....says Matti "Everett" Thundrrr
It's like a sequel to "Oh Brother, Where Art Thou?" !!!!

 

I am a man of constant sorrow.

 

<-------See the banjo?

 

Well my 750 just became a parts bike

 

What happened?