What Is Missing Or Is It Worth The Build?

Just make sure you clean the plug recesses in the head of any detritus before removing the plugs, then drop 5 ccs or so of oil in there before you crank it over.

 

Okay, I'll try that as soon as I can get a chance to. Thank you for the help. So the compression should read above 100, right?

 

Higher. If it's below 115 on a cold engine, I'd be pretty concerned. I think you want over 120 and under 170. Closer you are to the middle of those two numbers, the bettter.

Going off memory, though.

 

Okay, I'll check it out and then I will let you all know. If it's below 115 that would possibly mean it needs a rebuild? Or what else could it be?

 

Hold on as engine has not ran for awhile as I mentioned valve clearance could be off and an engine that is running tends to have better compression. First take all the plugs out , ensure you have a fully charged battery this is important a slow turning engine can give lower readings .

 

Alright, thank you for the help.

 

Okay, I did my compression test yesterday and here are the results. I took the advice of putting a little oil down the plug head as well. Keep in mind too that these numbers are for an engine that has not ran in a while.

cylinder 1: 125
cylinder 2: 150
cylinder 3: 90
cylinder 4:118

The 90 is what concerns me, but it could possibly just be due to it just sitting for so long. Any thoughts?

 

Even at 90 psi it should run , really should check valve clearance on that cylinder , I doubt rings are fully behind lower reading , if valves don't seat fully .

 

So how would I check the valve clearance? Would I need to take the top covering on the Cams off? Or what would you suggest @Jetfixer? Do you know of any how-to videos on how to check the valve clearance.

 

Grab a good feeler gauge, a pen and paper. On youtube, just type "How to adjust motorcycle valves -- Shim style" There's a video by MrMaxStorey that pretty much covers it.

There are probably a few others out there.

Not the same model, but the general steps are the same on all these bikes, I think. I would suggest something better than a zip-tie because they can break too easy. There are quite a few forum posts on here about it.

Easy enough

 

Yes the cam cover has to be removed , held down with several Allen bolts , take a piece of cardboard draw an outline mark where bolts go to keep in proper location. Pull all 4 spark plugs, remove the crank cover on right side of engine , a large zip tie bend end 90 degrees . Look in spark plug hole , you will see the valve tip , use a wrench turn the engine clockwise till the cam is lobe is opposite face of shim . Take your feeler gauge measure clearance , write down all readings , front is exhaust rear is intake . If using chart in manual if any are out of clearance, this where zip tie is used move can lobe to where valve is fully open. Insert zip tie thru the spark plug hole to where top of tie is under valve tip rotate engine over with wrench till cam lobe is 180 out from shim if zip tie is positioned right should be snug , you can now remove shim , a pick or small screw driver gently pry shim out. On the bottom of the shim is thickness write down number and use chart to figure what needs replaced. If you have a 280 you might need a 275 , caution do not turn engine over without a shim in place . It is best to pull shims one at a time write down readings and you might get lucky by moving shims around. When I did mine I needed 3 shims local dealer had them 9.00$ each . I usually start at the intake and then exhaust on one cylinder . This sounds complicated but is actually easy , after you do this it might scare you clappy valves are happy valves. There are some more detailed posts on the forum , sure I left something out but hope this helps . Go to the the how to section big fitz has a post with pictures on how to adjust valves.

 

Alright. It’s a lot, but I think I can get it done. Thanks for the advice and I’ll check it as soon as I get the next chance to do so. I’ll post my findings on here as well.

 

[QUOTE="hogfiddles, post: 604096, member: 1387"I'm building a couple MaximX's from scratch and parts......one is where every part is either new, refinished, or detailed. Here's when one started when it arrived in the mail last week.
View attachment 31371

It's only missing a few more parts than yours....

Dave[/QUOTE]
You should do a build thread.

Gary H.

 

You should do a build thread.

Gary H.[/QUOTE]
I've thought about it, but before I can start a build thread I think there are a few more things I still need to learn and know about. I'm still a little new at getting into motorcycles and its individual parts. But once I become more familiar, I definitely will be making a thread for it!

 

@Aisaakh99: Apologies. I wasn't trying to Jack your thread. I was actually talking to Dave regarding the X with the Virago front end. Your on track with the 750 tho. I believe the help you'll need to make your bike a solid runner is here. As jet said...the compression #'s are ok for now. These bikes were well built. The parts bike will immensely cut cost. As long as the structural integrity of a component or assembly is intact and or within spec and re-build parts/kits are available it can be re-built and will function as intended. Welcome aboard, your labor of love
journey has begun. Hope this helps.

Gary H.

P.S. - This is your build thread.

 

Don't need to do a build thread.... The parts are all the same except:
1. the lower triple clamp has a small hole on either side for the emblem
2. the headlight mount is different because the emblem is different ( the original Xj 700 headlight mount and emblem can still be used instead)

The WHOLE reason for doing this really simple---I like the virago fork emblem better. The ironic thing is-- the virago emblem will fit right over the xj700 emblem. The only issue there is you'd have to either drill the holes, fill the sides with RTV to glue the emblem on.

I can do a thread, though, if you prefer.

 

Oh its no problem. I have had a ton of help from the people on here and am so far on the right track because of all of that help. Next thing you know, she'll be running like a champ on the highway.

 

Thanks tho.

Gary H.

 

Gary, it's a super-simple swap-fit, I'll take pics for ya.....but you'll see what I mean when ai show you. I'll work on that in the next days or two

Dave

 

So here is how my project is coming so far. Thanks to @joe elliff for being a big help with getting me a whole new harness, CDI, regulator, carb rack, and etc. one I stripped off the old harness I proceeded to put the new one in. Even put the ignition coils on as well. As far as the headlight, I am still working on wiring it all up correctly. I did an electrical test, and everything has worked so far (minus the headlight because of the wiring). Once I have all of the wiring set up, I’m on to the carbs next. Are there suggestions or things I need to change around before I continue?