Buying a used XJ650 Maxim from Craigslist, but have a quick question.

Hi everyone,

I'm buying a used XJ650 from someone off Craigslist, and the guy says the only problem is "One problem - I brought the bike with me from Colorado and its carburetors are adjusted to run on that thin mountain air. Until the carburetors are adjusted for Richmond's low altitude, the bike will not run."

Is this a thing? How hard is it to fix the carbs myself? This will be my first bike, and I'm eager to learn the in's and out's of the bike.

Thanks.

 

the bike should still start and run it would just run rich. To adjust for the richness you might need new jets or it could be as simple as adjusting the fuel to air ratio.

The Xj650 is a great first bike. Certain parts for them are pricey. To rebuild the carb, which would be my recommendation can cost up to and above $200+ USD. To do it yourself is not hard.

 

such a line of bull. Yamaha did not put different jets in the bike for different locations in the US.
the carb sync will not change due to different altitudes.
the mixture screws are for the pilot jets which run the bike up to 2-3krpm where the main jets kick in.

sounds like the enrichment tubes or the wells in the bowls may be clogged.

settint the mixture screws to 2-1/2 turns out from a soft bottom would be all that is required to "correct" the high alt problem. if it were a problem.
we have a few members who ride from low alt to high alt with no problems.

 

In general, with bikes this old, don't believe stories like this. Just assume the carbs need to be completely rebuilt and many other items will need attention like brakes, tires, bearings, valve adjustment, etc.. Plan for this and don't pay a lot for the bike.

 

I'm buying it for $600, is that a decent price? Cosmetically the bike looks almost new, no scratches or major damage, and he says it was last ridden in September.

 

I should probably add that it's an 82' Maxim 650.

 

If it's in good cosmetic shape and complete, $600 isn't terrible for it. Plan on $700 to refresh it back to safe runnign shape. Plenty of links on here to assist with that. I have the same bike and really like it.

His line about it not running because of altitude is total BS. They all say "ran last fall," "just needs XXX," you get the idea.

Got any pics?

 

It does need a good cleaning. Cosmetically it looks fine to me, but also I don't know much about it, so who knows.

I had accounted for a few hundred to fix it up, since I had also planned to get a Clymer repair manual and go through the book and test everything. Before I even ride it I want / need to learn everything about the motorcycle first.

 

my slightly educated eye says it's all there, but I'm sure someone with a Maxim will find something that's out of place. I've heard folks say "don't pay more than a buck per CC if it's not running" So, you're in the right range.

 

looks good just missing 1 tank badge.
could be the fuses popped out during transport or battery is bad. to me it is a little steep for a non running bike.

non running is a buck a pound. 447 p0unds

check your inbox

 

decide on a price make your offer, if he says no walk away. tell him to call you when he wants to sell at your offer.

check the exhaust for rust holes and frame for rust through pay attention to side stand area

 

Thanks, got it, appreciate it.

He originally wanted 800 for it, and after offering $400 and some back and forth we settled on $575. I'll be meeting him Monday so I'll check the bike out then. Is there anything that I should keep an eye out on, other than signs of rust holes in the exhaust and frame? I am prepared to walk away though.

Thanks for the help.

 

Congratulation....first thing I noticed bike has the stock airbox , KEEP IT resist putting PODS filters in . To pull the carbs off lossen the carb boots , loosen the airbox boot clamps ,spray them down with silicone spray, and push them into the airbox . There is a 10mm bolt at the Y of the frame remove it and this should allow the airbox to move back . You will need to pull the tank ,disconnect the throttle cable, and choke cable. You can wiggle the carb and use a hammer handle( WOOD ONLY, no metal ) dont pound ,just gently pry and carbs should come free. After carbs are removed flip them over remove the 4 screws on the float bowls see what carbs look like inside if it looks like peanut butter or is green , full tear down will be needed .On the upper right corner of the page is XJ 4ever , chacal has all the parts for rebuilding the carbs, read the link church of clean , it is not real difficult to rebuild carbs , an afternoon should be about right. I recommend a full tear down and butterfly seals be replaced , obtain a one gallon bucket of Berrymans carb dip (Autozone) after carbs is fully tore down put carb bodies in one at a time let soak for 30 min wash with hot water and dawn dish soap let dry and reassemble...with all NEW rubber seals,O rings . Pleas note Spray carb cleaner will NOT get into all the passages of the carb , do this right the first time and , you should not have to work on carbs again ., besides setting synch and mixture. I recommend reading the information overload hour lots of good info. Cheers

 

I’ve looked through your pics a few times now, nothing looks amiss. Looks like an original bike, not molested and all the hard to find parts are there. Headlight looks a little tweaked but not serious. Even the goofy rubber cover is still there on the clutch cable. Running or not I’d buy it. You came to the right place for advice to get her back on the road and learn while you do it. You’re gonna need some patience but you will be rewarded I promise. Especially the first time you roll past 5k RPM in second gear

 

I found this site thanks to a 5 year old Reddit post, and it seems like it's already paid off.

Thanks for the help so far everyone. I really do appreciate it.

 

Myself, I would pay more for a non-running cosmetically good and original bike than one that runs but has poor cosmetics. It's not that hard to get them running but new tank, pipes, side covers are costly. In my area a non-running cosmetically bike goes for over $1k.

 

im looking to buy the same one (an 83 though) any specific things i should look at before buying? mainly stuff that's known to go wrong on these bikes?

 

One other item to call out (sorry if someone else posted this suggestion).....when looking at older bikes that have been in/out of service during their life is rust in the tank. Some rust can be addressed but if the inside of the tank has a significant amount of rust or.....there is an indication of paint bubbling on the outside of the tank around the lower seams, you should plan on the cost of replacing the tank.

Hope that helps and hope you find the bike to be in as good as or better than you expect!

 

I got a bunch to bring over to sell, then!! Lol

 

Looks like a decent score to me..... it should run anyway, but you'll tweak it as well. You can play with needles and Jets.
but "tuned for high altitude...." I can agree with... it would be dialed right in for HIM. "Wont run at lower altitude"..... blah blah blah--- it'll run, but will probably be too lean so you'll adjust