XJ700 Maxim doesn't start

So here is the scenario. Bought a 1985 XJ700 Maxim, when I turn the key on, the headlight and everything up front work. The blinkers and all of it all work fine. But, as soon as I try to turn it on, and flip the ignition switch, the headlight goes off, the lights in the speedometer go out and I get one small click from the battery and that's it, as well as the oil light come on. I tried jumping it through a car to see if it was the batter but it still didn't turn over.
Could it just be the oil level is low?
could it be that it is drained of gas?
Do I need to check the spark plugs?
Or what kind of checklist do I need to go through to get this thing going?
Thank you guys!!

 

By ignition switch i assume you mean start button? If so..
Sounds like something is shorted in the starter circuit, most likley the starter itself.
Try running the pos of the jumper battery or car direct to the wire on the starter see if it cranks.
If it does then you have to keep looking thru the start circuit, button relat solenoid etc.

 

Do you mean the starter solenoid that is located behind the battery?

 

positive battery cable and starter cable connects to solenoid

 

Need more info. Was it running prior to this current situation?

Make sure you are not in gear with the kickstand down... the XJ 700 does exactly what you are describing if it’s NOT in neutral and the kickstand is down... In other words, your bike is doing exactly what it is designed to do.

 

if I am reading the wiring diagram correctly the head light and speedo lights should go out when starter button is pushed.
oil light coming on is normal it is a test of the bulb

 

Yes. It does exactly that... just went out to the garage. I put it in gear and put the kickstand down (she’s always on the center stand). And then hit the starter button. Lights go out, and nothing else happens. Safety feature!

 

how old is battery?
what type battery ?
if lead acid how is the acid level
you need to do a voltage drop test hook a meter to battery read voltage press starter button what does voltage drop to .

test the starter as suggested above you could have a bad starter or bad solenoid or dirty connections.

pull out the spark plugs and isolate them from spark plug holes press starter button and see if gas sprays out of spark plug holes this will be a considerable amount of gas do not look into spark plug holes

 

lights go out to give you extra cranking power.
sidestand down and in gear bike will not start unless you squeeze the clutch lever.

 

Agreed. The "no start" is due to the side stand switch (without the clutch pulled of course).

 

stop trying to start bike
first put bike on center stand look on clutch cover you will see a sight glass for oil level you should see an air bubble on the top of sight. next check fuel tank see if you do not have fuel in tank your fuel may be in crank case.

tell us bike history. just buy the bike? was it sold to you as a non starter?

 

Okay, so I just went out and tried it standing up. Still nothing. I tried the horn and it only honked once very softly and then faded and wouldn't honk again.
I also forgot to mention that I took it to an auto store this afternoon to test the battery and it gave out a full 12V BUT....the negative terminal is broken. As in, the two terminals have bolts that screw down the leads to the battery and the negative terminal is "ripped" or it doesn't close around the bolt if you know what I mean? I can send a picture if you need help visualizing it. Would that be a problem? Or because of the bolt would it be fine and still give a full charge even if it is broken doesn't encompass the bolt fully?
Also, how would I test the starter connection? Sorry I'm used to working on Hondas and not Yamahas.
Thanks for all of the help guys

 

if battery terminal connection is broken and you can not make a good connection that could be your problem.

to test starter hook negative to motor and positive to bolt that holds down cable on starter or to the bolt that holds the starter cable to solenoid.

but check oil level and fuel in tank first.

your oil light comes on so starter button should be good. until you can get a good battery or solid connection you can not test solenoid.

are you using a computer or cell phone?

 

I'm using a computer right now. And I just got the bike yesterday off a guy who hadn't used it in a few years. So I'll have to check the oil level and gas. But I do know it has very little if any gas at all in it. But I thought it would at least try to crank over without gas.

 

Not a Honda vs Yamaha thing

If you don’t have a good ground connection then a charged battery won’t do you any good. A bad connection (positive or ground) will mimic a dead or dying battery.

If your starter is toast it can also draw so much current that everything will pull down and mimic a dead or dying battery.

As others have pointed out, oil levels and quality need to be established firsthand. If something doesn’t look right, fix it first

 

we do need to establish terminology.
where key goes is ignition switch.
button to turn over motor is starter button

 

check your inbox at top right of page


we now have a base line to help find your problems.
I think you are saying your negative battery cable is broken.
if you want to see if motor is seized or stuck take the left crank cover off and use a wrench to turn the square bolt counter clock wise

 

So if I test the starter and it kicks over then it would be the battery that is bad and I would need to replace that. Right?

 

is it the terminal that is broken or the negative cable connector.

if the bike has been sitting for a few years you will need a new battery.
if you jump start from a car do not have the car running

no trying to crank it over until you have checked oil level

 

Battery.
Battery.
Battery.
Unless it is good nothing else electrical can be diagnosed properly.

 

I'll probably end up working on it later tonight. I just stopped and got some gas and more oil for it because I doubt the guy added fresh oil if he hadn't ridden it in a few years.
And to answer your question it is the terminal that is broken, not the cable connector. There is a hole in each terminal that a bolt goes into and the has a screw at the bottom so you attach the connector to the terminal type thing. It looks like someone just ripped the bolt out of the negative terminal so it's only a half loop or open hole and not a full loop or closed hole terminal. That's the best I can describe it. Would a picture be better?

 

photo would help.
is the square/rectangle nut still there?

 

let me know if that worked and you can see it. I'm not sure how to put the picture up...

 

there it is again. I hope this one loaded this time

 

considering age of battery and that damage I would replace the battery. there may be internal damage.

 

Sooooooo we might have a problem....
Just went to drain the old oil and put in some new oil. First off, that oil came out like a bat out of hell! Second, it didn't have the consistency of oil at all....it was dark like oil, and slippery like oil on the ground, but almost smelt a little like gasoline. That, and there was over a gallon of fluid in there...What do I do? Is that normal? Should I just fill it up and see what happens? Please send help!!!

 

just add new oil you have a fuel and oil mix happens all the time .

what you have to do next is find out why you were full of oil and gas.

most likely reason is float valves failed in carbs time to remove carbs and clean them.

you may want to change the filter .
once the bike runs put some seafoam in the oil and run it for a few miles drain oil and add new filter.
you have a lot of work ahead of you
so now it is time to make a plan budget and time line.

for me it is motor running first
and doing all the "free things"


The Information Overload Hour

IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN

 

That's the plan is to get all the free things going so I can get it running and then do the fine tuning and cosmetic and little things later. Okay, I'm glad it's a semi common thing. That makes me feel a lot better.
I'll go fill it with oil and put in the new filter and add some gas and try to get it to turn over. The guy I bough tit from said that he did some work on the carbs and even ran them through an ultrasonic so I will do that later and just trust that he set it up right. If not, I'm fine doing carb work. that stuff doesn't bother me.

 

you can turn over the bike without fuel. if carbs are leaking oil will become contaminated again.

remove and inspect air filter. you can spray some starter fluid into the air box and see if the bike starts it will run for a few seconds

I had 2 rescues with full crank cases at least your rings should not be stuck

the first thing to decide is a budget or in for a penny in for a pound.
then what I do is get the valve clearances in spec.
then compression test.
next remove carbs to rebuild and clean.

free things is cleaning connectors and connections you will need crocus cloth electronic spray cleaner and dielectric grease.
controls will need a little internal cleaning and some silicone spray to lube them.
ignition switch
Clean and lube the ignition switch
gas cap
Your Gas Cap and You​

 

I would remove the carbs and bench inspect them and test them off the bike to see if they leak (they will) before filling them up on bike. how does the fuel tank look inside any/much rust?

 

There is some rust in the tank but not a ton. Not enough that I would be worried about it or anything. Just spots here and there. Normal.

 

It doesn't have an air filter. It has pods on it.
What should I do for that?
Just take off the carb all together and check for leaks with it off?

 

remove pods and give it the starter fluid test.

try to find an air box for bike.

remove the carbs open the bowls and inspect them.
you should clean them make sure the wells in the bowl bodies are clear so that the enrichment tubes can pick up fuel.

when using starter fluid do not have pods on bike the pods tend to go up in flames if you get a back fire. buy a fire extinguisher keep it handy when ever you work with solvents and gasoline could save your bike home and life.

 

Note taken. I'll go take them off and check it out and then see if it is the battery terminal, the starter relay or the starter solenoid that is causing it to not start.

 

What should I look for in the carbs that would make fuel run into the engine oil?

 

the float needles are what meters fuel into the carbs could be stuck open or crapped up .
they are what fills your crank with gas you will /should replace them

read the church of clean before and during dissembly you will need a JIS screw driver for the screws if you have an inpact driver those bits work well

 

video to watch
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/dry-and-wet-set-fuel-levels.123053/#post-623371

 

Okay, so here's an update. Took the carb apart and it was awful! soaked up and then scrubbed it down with a wire brush and removed all the jets and tubes and everything. Got it squeaky clean!
So I put in a little bit of gas and it holds it well! Also adjusted the floats and the last person to do it put one of the floats on upside down....So I tried to hook it up to test the starter and everything and I believe I hooked it up correct. One to the engine and one to the red lead connected to the solenoid. And I got nothing....I go more of a click when I reattached the terminals and just tried jumping it like normal. It sounds like its clicking from the solenoid but I don't know if that means anything?
Where else can I try to hook it up and test it?
I want to say that I don't think it would be the starter or the starter switch because it's trying to start and it clicks, it just doesn't turn over.

 

Just kidding! It's leaking!!! right out of the bottom of the exhaust. What could it be? I thought I set the floats correctly...

 

You used the old float needles.
You can't halfway-refurbish old carbs, especially after they've sat for so long and been messed with by a PO. Do it all.
IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN
Cleaning your Mikuni carbs
Why you should replace butterfly (throttle shaft) seals.
Replacing your Hitachi throttle shaft seals (same is true for the Mikiuni carbs and the procedure is almost the same)

Setting the fuel levels

 

Got it taken care of. Carb 1 and 2 were off by a bit. no more leaks. Took off the throttle shaft seals and they weren't hard, crusted, and still lubed. Put some more lube on just in case. Thanks k-moe.

 

So here is a question for all. Today I went out and tried to get a few different ways to jump the bike but to no avail. I tried connection the positive to the engine or the battery or anywhere, thinking it might just be the ground that was bad, but no matter where I hooked it up, it wouldn't give me anything more than that little click from the solenoid. Does that mean there has to be a short in the wiring running from the on off switch to the battery?

 

positive goes to nut on starter cable at starter or solinoid even though it is black. negative goes to motor.
if your jumping direct you would not even use the starter button.

if you want to test the starter button unplug the connector at solenoid hook a meter to the blue stripe wire and ground cable . set meter to ohms and press starter button yu should get 0.0 ohms

 

should I unplug the connectors to the battery to do that or leave them on?

 

just leave them on you are disconnecting the solenoid from the main harness and testing the harness connector

 

Okay, so here is the newest update. I've rebuilt the carbs per spec of the carb bible, and I got a new starter that I just put in today.
Engine cranks over now, the sparks have good spark and just in case I replaced them. The bike gets good compression, and when I was testing the sparks with them not in, I could smell a little bit of gas, which to mean would mean that the gas is enough as well...It sounds like it wants to start but that it just isn't getting enough of something.
Any ideas? Suggestions?
Thanks for all the help so far guys!

 

Did you prime the carbs before attempting to start?
Did you use any enrichment?

 

That would be a negative to both questions. How do I do that?

 

That would be a negative to both questions. How do I do that?

 

Set the petcock to Prime for about 30 seconds to fill the float bowls, then turn it back to ON.

The thumblever on the left side control is the enrichment lever. Turining it to the left opens the enrichment circuits (analog to the choke on a car).
Depending on the outsde temerature you might need a bit of extra fuel in order for the bike to start, so turn that lever.

The first start with carbs that have been dry is usually the hardest.