Xj750 CARBURETORS

Ok and correct me if I'm wrong but the regulator would be left side near the tci box correct?
If yes than will it stay running without one cause there's a loose adapter nothing plugged in and idk if the stator charges it or I have to have a regulator or does something else plug in there?

 

Yes, the regulator is the heat sink finned box next to the the TCI. IIRC, it has a cable coming off of it, with an 8 position, 7 pin, plug a few inches down the cable. As long as there is a battery, the bike should be able to run, for a while, without the regulator connected.

These bikes use alternators with field windings, so the regulator adjusts the field strength to regulate the output voltage, and also includes the rectifier module.

 

Without a regulator, keep the rpms down or you’ll start blowing lights and fuses.

 

Um, no. Not in these bikes. The regulator/rectifier is one unit. If you disconnect it, you will have no output at all from the alternator feeding into the electrical system.

 

Well, that’s not how i recall it working on my xj’s ive had enough with bad ones. I’ve blown enough bulbs and fuses because of bad ones.... as the rpms go up, things started to blow especially above 15.5-16 volts.....I don’t think I said to disconnect it though....

 

You said "without", and he said he thought it was disconnected.

A bad regulator, that was feeding full power to the field winding... yes, that would cause overvoltage and blow things.

 

Fair enough—- I should have said it clearer

 

Well yall I've rode it around the block twice it runs good I need to tune the idle it revs way to much at a quarter turn of the throttle also when I parked it both on the 1st and 2nd time good bit of smoke was still coming out the exhaust what's up with that?

As for the regulator there's not one I see connected but it did ride good didn't shut off on me

 

Please post photos of what you're seeing, or not seeing, with the regulator. With no regulator, it will run for a while, until the battery is too low to continue powering the ignition.

 

I know there's no regulator cause the plugin is hanging behind the tci box
Think the smoking exhaust stopped after I road it again next step is to fix the tuning on the carbs cause at quarter turn it revs like your drag racing I think the butterfly valves may be open too much

 

OK, so why not plug it in? The other end of the cable connects to the alternator and to the battery.

 

There ain't one.

 

the 2 jets you see from top of carb are air jets main fuel air jet and pilot air jet. they help fuel be drawn into carbs and be atomized for better combustion.
I like to take them out so I can flush both ways you could spray cleaner and air down the jets but back flushing them may trap crud under them and end back in the passages.

go to this thread and click the link it has cutaway carbs both mikuni and hatachi you will be able to see the passages you are cleaning and how air jets connect to fuel jets.
It helps to understand the fuel air flow through the carbs when cleaning

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/something-new-something-naked.36344/

 

There ain't what? The cable is cut off at the alternator? Or the whole alternator is missing? Or...?

 

We might need some more pics if you would, that would really help clear up things here and get some definitive answers. If you are running the bike without a reg plugged in you are just asking for something to pop, melt or blow. I know it feels great to get her going and try to turn her, but please get a reg and get it plugged in. All the hard work you just did to clean the carbs so why add to a list of things that still need to be fixed.

 

Well behind the tci box there's no regulator just a big adapter where I'm guessing the regulator would connect I installed new inline fuses so they should blow before the tci I don't have one to plug in it I'd have to search for one.

 

You hope.

there’s a gazillion of them on eBay.....
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/353008094326
here’s just one.

ifvyou don’t wanna use eBay, contact our member,
750MaximSeattle ..... he’s probably got a bunch, too.

dfox

 

Is v77 the model or is there another brand and model such as hitachi such and such#123

 

reg from 550 650 750 and more will fit link shows all the bikes you can use one from



https://www.partzilla.com/product/y...?ref=e19e4b7085b42d15df4acaddd2741c64896f59cd

 

13.99 or best offer free shipping
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1983-...Yamaha&hash=item1cac5bad03:g:TLwAAOSw9RdbBd~I

 

Guys, as I already pointed out, running with no regulator at all isn't going to "melt", "pop", or "blow" anything. There simply will be no output from the alternator, so the bike will be running off the battery until the battery is too low to power the ignition. Without alternator output, the headlight relay will never latch, so the headlight will stay off, which will make the battery last quite a bit longer.

Cody, the regulator is not being the TCI, it's in front:

 

That was supposed to say, "not behind the TCI"...

 

Gotcha. Headlight was on after 2 rides not very bright but was on for sure

 

What was done to this bike? Why is the regulator missing? Or is the regulator actually just relocated or something?

Edit: I just realized that the diode block gets it sense feed directly from the alternator, not from the regulator, so the headlight relay will latch if the alternator is producing output regardless of whether there's output from the regulator... however, with no regulator there should be no field current, so no output from the alternator.

Where do the cables that come out of your alternator go?

 

Idk it's how I got it and the adapter is there but no regulator I'll probably order one

 

I still don't know what you mean by "adapter". Adapter from what to what? Do you mean connector?

 

Yep the big one near the tci where regulator plugs in

 

Yall think itd be delivered quicker if I order one here or Ebay? shipping to charleston sc

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Regulator-...497751?hash=item416d696457:g:r44AAOSwA9tdXwH7

 

Len's shipping is usually amazingly fast.

 

How quick is he from the time I order to the time it gets delivered?

 

I'd guess about three days.

 

So I've got the bike running but no front brakes and they wont bleed or build pressure on the lever never rebuilt these before any ideas on this matter yall? Easy fix rebuild tutorial etc..?

 

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-rebuild-your-master-cylinder.18377/

Pics have apparently been lost to the ages, but the text is still here. Someday maybe I’ll try to replace pics.....

in the meantime, if you NEED a visual, we can try to show you a needed picture.
dfox

 

If this is the remotely mounted Seca master cylinder, be careful, because the seal where the reservoir attaches to the MC itself is not included in the rebuild kit, is not generic, and doesn't appear to be available as a replacement part.

 

Front brakes are also very difficult to bleed. There is a thread on it.

 

If you are going to play with the brakes on the Seca, use PB blaster on the bleeder bolts on both sides of the forks. I think you have two bleeders on each side like mine does. Let that sit for a while, you don't want to brake them off. Before you pull the MC (and that will be fun) remove all the left over fluid from the MC reservoir using a small hose/tube. Refill with new DOT 3 and then try to bleed the system.

I just did my Seca MC a few weeks ago, have fun taking the bad boy off the bike. You will have to pull the headlight and I think the gauges, maybe not the gauges hmmm. I was able to get mine in working condition by letting it soak in brake fluid and then just move the piston on the MC many times to get it to functions correctly.

 

I believe his bike is a Maxim.

 

82 maxim

 

Well then the MC is easy to get to.....my bad sorry about that.

 

Hey yall I'll try pulling the brake master cylinder later today and see if I can get the brakes working broke the bleeder screw on one side I think it might have been reverse threaded but anyways now it's sorta capped off however the other bleeder screw loosens and tightens correctly so shouldn't I have a little front brakes temporarily until I get the other screw fixed?

 

Bleeders are not reverse threaded. If your MC isn’t building pressure, you won’t have brakes. If the broken bleeder is “sorta capped”, it probably isn’t holding any pressure.... you probably won’t have brakes even if the MC is Ok. To me, “sorta capped” means “isn’t sealed”

 

Have to take your time with these older bikes, use penetrating oil and let it do its job. Now you will have to ez out that bleeder or drill and tap it out. Hogfiddles is saying that if the bleeder is broken off the hollow middle portion of the bleeder could be open to the brake fluid. If you never mover the bleeder at all, it might well be seated all the way down and the bleeder hole at the bottom never cleared the wall edged to get to the fluid. So it will be sealed still. You can still work on the MC and the other caliber to get the MC to work. Clean all the old fluid out and make sure the little hole in the bottom is clear as well. The forth post on this page by Hogfiddles will show you how to do this.

 

The comment by the poster was that he capped the bleeder screw. Then hog fiddles post was about if it's been capped that it has been opened and leaking and that a cap would not solve the issue.And that if the cap was indeed leaking all the bleeding in the world could not get the air out of the system to make the brakes work properly.
You are correct in the fact that he needs to add penetrating oil and an easy out to remove a broken bleeder screw. I will assume that he has to rebuild the caliper so at that point he could use some heat to to help it along. Also to help break up the rust he could tap on what's left of the breed bleeder screw to help break it free.

 

Except I wasn’t ASSUMING anything. It’s what he said.

I assume you’re assuming that I was assuming ......

 

Got the broke part out and it is sealed it's been re threaded halfassed and has a new bleeder screw tightened down in it but its not going to work however since the other side has a intact screw after I bleed it would it work on that one side? Or do both sides have to work to have any brakes at all?

 

yes i stated that incorrectly and have corrected the statement

 

As I did...not trying to speak for anyone...sorry guys. Guess I might pull back a bit.

 

Instead of arguing yall might answer the question I posted? Thanks

 

Also what can I do about the exhaust they're way too quiet