Xj750 CARBURETORS

How about the front brakes if I get the calipers master cylinder and all off of a different bike wouldn't it work on mine? Seen a video where a guy used a cbr crotch rocket brake setup for his xj750

 

you could fix or get another caliper to replace yours . or try to remove the broken bleeder maybe find a machine shop to remove it.

for parts from another bike you may have to make brackets for calipers unless you replace the whole front end

 

Ok, so if the exhaust is “way too quiet”.... leave it alone. You finally found one part that is working correctly.

These bike ARE quiet.......not like a Goldwing, but quiet.

If you want loud, you can:
1. Remove the mufflers
2. Use aftermarket mufflers
3. Put Sportser mufflers on
4. Take mufflers off and cut the down pipes shorter
5. Get a Harley

There’s just a short lists. It ranges from “you’ll go deaf sooner” to “you’ll make your neighbors mad at you” to “you’ll probably get a ticket”.

NONE of those will make your bike any better. All they will do is give you different levels of loud. If you think you’re gonna get the real big “Thunder rolling down the road” sound... reality check- it ISN’T gonna happen with an XJ.

Seens to me that you’re getting so many irons in the fire with this project, that you’re going in circles. I say slow down and FIX one thing at a time. Maybe you are, but it seems like we’re getting shotgun questions.

BTW... we aren’t arguing, we’re having fun. We do that... sometimes at each other’s expense, sometimes at your’s. Sometimes we digress....oh, looks a bird!

 

I guess if you lose your sense of humor with these bikes you lose your mind and not going to have fun. I do agree with hog fiddles that you have to work on one system on the bike at a time. This does not mean that you can't do the brakes while working on the motor and carbs. Your priority should be to get the bike running first and correctly so that you actually have a need for the brakes. You have a 750 Maxim with a broken bleeder screw which does need to be repaired. So while you wait for the new bleeder screw or your caliper you should work on the motor in The carburetors. And when the brakes come in you can fix them. There is a thread on bleeding 750 seca brakes which will help you bleed your brakes because with the dual disc it's a real b**** to do. Involves things like tying back to break love and let the air bleed out overnight. to running a vibrator up the lines to bring the air to the surface. Not that kind of a vibrator but like a orbital vibrating sander as opposed to a belt sander. Unless you have one of those vibrators laying around. But that's too much information. See I threw a joke in there.

 

So i can get a parts bike cheap I believe I can swap the entire front break system to mine I'm wondering why it wouldn't work? I think it will

 

You can't have any air in the system. Air compresses a lot, and even a few bubbles in the line will prevent pressure build up. If you can't bleed one side because the bleeder is buggered up, then it's a loss on the whole system.

It's generally cheaper and easier to replace or rebuild parts designed for the brake system that came with the bike. Swaps have been done but I would rather repair/replace one original caliper over trying to adapt an entire braking system off another bike. That said, if you try it and it works/is bolt on please keep us informed.

 

Well correct me if I'm wrong but if the master cylinder has ANY pressure at all coming out it's working right?
I took the hose off covered the cylinder with my finger and pumped the clutch a bit and when I let off you could hear it release pressure so I think that's good again correct me if I'm wrong about that

I rode it to the gas station (no brakes) seemed fine got backed parked it and the right side exhaust had smoke coming out not the left side at all I'm not sure what that means.

How do I check the caliper itself now that it's off the bike inside (to retread the broke screw hole)

Also it's got 2 quarts of 10w40 after I drained the old oil out, the whole ride the oil light was blinking and idk why.

 

yu can run an allen screw into mc to test presure.
your a little light on the oil quanity 2.6 qt oil change
2.8 qt with filter

 

So what causes oil light to blink steady while riding and what causes smoke to come out one exhaust after shutoff for about 45secs

 

I'm not sure you read my comment through, did I check the master cylinder correctly and how do i check caliper with it disconnected? Few more questions there also

 

Blinking light
1. Oil level could still be low
2. Oil level sender could be dirty, clogged

smoke from muffler
1. Could be excess gas still burning off
2. Could be excess blow by burning off
3. Could be moisture still burning off
4. Could be bad rings
5. Could be bad valve stem seals
Etc....

How to check a caliper that’s not connected
1. You don’t

 

How to check a caliper that’s not connected... well, you could put a spacer, like a thin piece of wood or something, between the pads, or between the frame and piston, if the pads aren't there, and then use compressed air to verify that the caliper grips the spacer with a bit of pressure applied, and releases when the pressure is removed.

Calipers are pretty simple devices. If you have one off, you should disassemble it, clean it, probably hone it unless the bore is really smooth, and install a new seal kit.

 

I believe he doesn’t have it connected to anything.....

 

Yeah. To test with compressed air you wouldn't need it connected to anything. You would just inject some air into the line connection port with the nozzle of a blower.

 

2 quarts of oil is not enough see my post on quantities with oil filter change and just oil change.

 

Ok so bike runs pretty good current issues are:
1) bikes oil light keeps blinking as soon as it fires up during ride and until its shutoff

2) turning signals stay lit on any selection and do not blink at all

 

The oil swx (as mentioned above) could have some sludge build up on it. Adding some sea foam to the oil could help that out, flushing the oil system.

The turn signals could be just the battery. If you have a car battery and some jumper cables is a good way to test. If the lights still don't blink when you have a known good battery or power going to a non running bike, then it might be the relay.

You have all stock or OEM lights on the bike? Changing any of the lights to LED's will have a effect on how the lights operate.

 

oil quanity 2.6 qt oil change or 2.8 qt with filter 2 quarts of oil you added after drain is not enough oil
or

 

could be you have wrong wattage bulbs

is the self canceller is still on the bike remove it

 

Usually the self-cancelling unit doesn’t do that. All it does is turn the signal off after a period of time. It is not what controls the blinking itself. Sounds like either the wrong bulbs are on it or something is wired wrong.

 

Is there a way to bypass the relay I'm pretty sure that's the issue

 

Lame answer.

 

As others have mentioned, non-blinking turn signals may be due to wrong bulbs (wrong wattage or just swapping to LEDs) or a bad flasher. Also make sure that both front and rear are lighting up. One bulb burnt out or not making good contact or a bad socket will cause the other one to light and not flash.

A bad self-cancelling unit will result in either the turn signals never coming on or never turning off. It will not cause them to light but not flash. It's a handy feature and I find it annoying that there are some people whose answer to a circuit they don't understand, like the self-canceller, or the sidestand safety, is to remove it.

 

removing it eliminates it as the issue and he would have seen it as the issue if it was doing as you your self have stated, and I do understand the self canceler.

 

No.

What I said is, a bad self-canceller will result in one of two scenarios:

1. The turn signals will never turn on (no light at all, not on and not flashing. Just nothing.) This is pretty rare, because the circuit is designed for failure mode 2 to be more likely.

or

2. The turn signals will never turn off on their own: they will flash and flash until you manually reset/cancel the switch.

His situation is that the signals light but don't flash, which is the flasher or the lamps. Or, if only some of them are lighting, might be the sockets.

 

okay y'all so I have still not figured out the turning signal issues with this bike however I have another issue it will not stay in idle more than about 15 seconds if that and I believe it only stays on that long because my petcock does not work on so I leave it on Prime which leaves extra fuel in the float Bowl Maybe I'm Wrong on that I don't know but my issue I was going to post a question about is when I had the idle adjuster screw in slightly each time I revved it with no choke it had super high RPMs so I backed the adjuster off basically all the way and it seemed to fix the RPMs issue but the bike will not idle any ideas on this problem

 

Did you ever do a running sync?

 

Bench sync

 

So, then the hypothetical conversation is:
You: “No, I have not done a running sync yet.”
Us: “you need to do a RUNNING sync.”
You: “I did a bench sync”
Us: “you need to do a RUNNING sync. We’re gonna keep saying that.”

 

So let’s see — at this point you’ve ridden the bike around with:
-Running on just the battery
-Minimal headlight
-Signal that aren’t working
-faulty brakes
-Carbs not breathing right or running-synced
-low oil

hmm... you got more guts than I do. I won’t even get on a bike that has any checks in the tires—-