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Yamaha XJ 550 4V8 Trouble Starting Motorcycle (Philipp's ongoing troubleshoot)

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by PHIdet, Oct 13, 2019.

  1. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    As far as I'm aware the colour tune thing is only relevant for idle. Not sure if ut has significant effects elsewhere. It's not a big issue for me, I set the screws to 2.5 and left them. I felt balancing was more important along with valve clearances.
     
  2. PHIdet

    PHIdet Member

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    Okay I bench synced the carbs (they seemed pretty sync to beginn with) and cleaned them, and now it's firing right up.



    But I still feel like it's running kinda rough, there's still some kind of clattering noise



    Any more input concerning that? Maybe the idle speed is just a tiny bit too low? I'd say it's slighty below 1100 rpm
     
  3. PHIdet

    PHIdet Member

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    Little update:

    The bike's firing up nicely now, even though only with choke. If I take the choke off too early, it bogs down and dies. After having it run for ~30-40s, I can take off the choke and it's idling steadily at 1100 rpm. I'd say that's normal.

    The mufflers are still leaking fuel though. Both have little rust holes right at the clamps where the mufflers meet the collector box, so that's where it's coming out. What I'm confused about though is the amount - I don't think that much unburnt gas is supposed to be delivered to the mufflers.
    Any thoughts?

    I'm also about to make a little test run as soon as I bled the new steel-braided lines, but first I absolutely wanna make sure both the wheels and also the chain are aligned as they're supposed to be. I had both tires off and installed a new chain. From strictly eyeballing it I'd say it's fine, but I don't wanna risk anything.
    Do you guys have any input on how to properly do that?

    Cheers
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2020
  4. PHIdet

    PHIdet Member

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    This is what a few rounds up and down the street and quite a bit of idling look like (all straight out of cylinders without cleaning)

    Cylinder 1: [​IMG]https://www.directupload.net/file/d/5809/fjoefr7i_jpg.htm [​IMG]

    Cylinder 2: https://www.directupload.net/file/d/5809/9ff5sgvm_jpg.htm [​IMG]

    Cylinder 3: https://www.directupload.net/file/d/5809/uvui25dj_jpg.htm [​IMG]

    Cylinder 4: https://www.directupload.net/file/d/5809/rjd54jaj_jpg.htm [​IMG]

    It's probably running rich, but it's also a bit more black than I'd imagined.
    Does this look ok to you?
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2020
  5. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    1200 rpm is better fot the 550 it keeps the primary chain tensioned and reduces the slap.

    mufflers have a little drain hole at bottom often confused with a rust hole.

    are you sure it is fuel?
    if it is you have an issue with your carbs wet fuel level or float needle s not sealing
     
  6. PHIdet

    PHIdet Member

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    Got it, will adjust the ilde then.

    Concerning the mufflers, I'll have to take a close look wether it's a rust hole or a drain hole. Given that it's on both side in exactly the same spot, drain holes would make more sense.
    I would suppose it's fuel - when starting the bike after having in sit for a few days, there's a few splash spots under the mufflers as if one had flung a wet paint brush, both that and the big spots under the supposed drain holes evaporate fairly quickly though.
    If there was a problem with float needles not sealing etc, wouldn't I notice that in other places too? Like overflowing carbs/ gas coming out of the overflow, or maybe a drenched air filter box?

    Cheers
     
  7. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Plugs look ok but really you need to take a look after a decent run and the motor is good an hot. As said exhaust drips are more likley water than fuel. Check your mpg (or km/l) after a ru if it's close to 45 mpg (UK galls) you're doing OK.
     
  8. lostboy

    lostboy Well-Known Member

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    It may be just water. Water is a biproduct of combustion. Take a tissue and soak up the mystery fluid and try to light it with a match. You will know quickly if it is gas or water.
     
  9. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Or smell it
     
  10. PHIdet

    PHIdet Member

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    Cheers guys.

    I tried smelling it, it doesn't necessarily smell like gas, but it has the yellow-ish color to it. I'm just gonna ignite it, see how it goes.

    I pretty much put the bike together completely now. There's just a few things I would like to run by you before I'm gonna have to deal with licensing the bike with the German Technical Inspection Association.

    1) I completely overhauled the break system and bled the new steel-braided lines, there is not a single air bubble coming out. It does break nicely, but only after half an inch or so of pulling the lever. The real breaking force only kicks in when the break lever is almost completely in. There are no leaks, and all the lines are bled. Is there a way to 'tighten' the break lever so the force sets in earlier?

    2) When the bike is mounted on the center stand, and I spin the back wheel (to lube the chain for example), at a certain point during the rotation of the wheel it slighty scrapes the ground. A few degrees further, and there's no friction anymore. We're not talking inches here, just a noticable scraping and then no scraping. That, obviously, can't be good for the bikes stability when riding.
    What is causing this, in your opinion? Maybe a worn bearing?

    3) As I mentioned before, from strictly eyeballing I'd say the chain seems to be properly aligned. But when turning the back wheel or pushing the bike, there's a slight 'clicking noise' noticable, coming from the chain. I do believe that kind of chain noise is normal, I just wanted you guys to confirm it.

    4) As far as electronics go, after tinkering for quite a while I got it all to work, safe for the tach/speedo back lighting, the high beam indicator and the oil pressure light. The wiring diagramm in my repair manual was a vital help, but after checking all the cables for continuity, I can't seem to make out why those three things are not working. The bulbs are all fine, and given that literally everything else is working, my guess is that there's just one single thing off.
    Do you have an idea what might cause this? Is there a common denominator between the three?


    Cheers
     
  11. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    1. Brakes-there is an adjustment screw on the bottom/back/inside of the brake handle. Turn it in a bit
    2.worn tire?
    3. Seized link
    4. sounds like you’re missing a ground wire somewhere, or a wire is off in the bucket. You may have to open things back up and look closer
     
  12. PHIdet

    PHIdet Member

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    1. Great, thanks :D

    2. They're completely new, but I put them on end of last year. Most the bike stood umoved in one spot were maybe 4 months, but even then it was on the main stand, so I kinda doubt it's a flat spot.

    3. I did lube it properly, but the seized link is possible. Should I ride the bike a bit and keep the chain well-lubed in order to free it up, or should I definitely clean it first? Any good method of doing that while the chain is installed?

    4. That might be, though I wonder how the high beam for example works but the high beam indicator doesn't. As far as I can see, they're running off the same wire. You're right though, I guess I'm gonna have to check again.
     
  13. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Seized link——-loosen the chain so it is very slack. Then go through the whole chain and check every link and pivot point. Time-consuming? Yup.
     
  14. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    oil would be full of gas and above the sight glass. I think it is just moisture. just keep an eye on oil level
     
  15. lostboy

    lostboy Well-Known Member

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    What fun is that? Fire=fun.
     
  16. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    huffing fuel may fun for some but i like fire
     
  17. PHIdet

    PHIdet Member

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    I've got one more question concerning the oil pressure light: How likely is it that the actual oil level switch is broken? That would be a pain to get off.
    What's an easy way to test if the bulb and all the wires leading to it are working?
     
  18. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Tyre not 'centred' properly. i found it very hard to get a tubeless tyre centre on a rim with a tube (if that makes sense). Riding will help you discover any stability issues
    1-2mm wont make much difference IMHO.
     
  19. PHIdet

    PHIdet Member

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    I see what you mean, I feared as much. I didn't do the tyres myself, an acquaintance of mine did that, he's got his own workshop and usually does things spotlessly.
    Is there anything I could do to fix that without any special tools or experience? I've never worked on tyres.
    I'd prefer to have this sorted out, I don't think I'd feel comfortable riding, knowing that there's something off.
     
  20. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    When you press the starter button the oil light should light up. that is the test for the bulb. To test oil switch which is on the bottom of the motor in the oil pan when you drain the oil turn the key on and the oil light should come on. Then when you fill the bike with oil to the spec turn the key on and oil light should be off.
     

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