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Cylinder Juggs Seperating from Crankcase

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Franz, May 5, 2020.

  1. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    the aluminum conducts heat so well that it's not going to expand the hole. you can't get a wrench on it before it transfers that heat to the rest of the block.
    gunsmiths will heat the screw rather than the gun, logic is the screw will expand because it's insulated from the rest by the corrosion.
    when the screw expands, it crushes the corrosion then shrinks and leaves a little room.
    the oil is put on after the heat, so it doesn't burn up and turn to ash and make things tighter
     
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  2. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    I am going to drill it out l think then a local shop can remove the remains of the stud off the cylinders. Perhaps heating it has made it worse.
     
  3. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    stop, don't drill it, if it's going to a shop let them take it out. if you mess it up they have to fix that and get it out. they would rather start from scratch
     
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  4. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Polock good point. I have more damage with stud holes at the front of the cam tunnel which were like this then I bought the bike. Ideally I know the damage needs welded and redrilled but in the present circumstances I cannot get that done, and I cannot get a welder to attempt it myself. So I would like your opinions on the following regarding heat dissipation as I have made up a plate to secure the nuts on the underside of the studs too. Will the plate have any adverse effects on cooling in your opinions?

    Damaged Stud Holes.jpg Plate 1.jpg Plate 2.jpg

    It is a temporary solution until I can get it repaired properly. Good idea or not?
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2020
  5. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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  6. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Yes they would not be able to slacken off with the serrations I will use them. There is enough metal there for the nut to grip, my idea with the plate was also to keep the road dirt out.
     
  7. JBurch

    JBurch Active Member

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    Call me the village idiot if I am stating the obvious........the stud which is screwed into the cylinder, and passes thru a boss on the upper half of the crank case, it is frozen in the boss and won't allow the cylinder to be lifted up and out. Is this correct?

    A couple of ideas come to mind:
    heat the boss with the torch, get some dry ice, quench the stud, with the dry ice, after heating the boss, tap on the boss; not killer shots, see if it breaks free. Try to rock the cylinders, front to back. Try the air hammer carefully
    Find an aircraft shop, talk to a mechanic, a bolt/stud frozen in aluminum due to galvanic corrosion would not be unknown to them; what do they do?
    Don't know if you have "PB Blaster", "Kroil", "Liquid Wrench" in the UK, you want an aggressive penetrating solvent.

    They are ideas, don't know if they are good or bad, just ideas.
    Good luck!!
     
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  8. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Yes that is what the problem is and I can get PB Blaster here I will try that and the other ideas you suggest thanks.
     
  9. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    "aircraft shop" -- in Scotland? ;)
     
  10. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    We got a few of them here bensalf, by the way I used to work in Keighley with an elevator and escalator manufacturer.
     
  11. JBurch

    JBurch Active Member

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    Maybe he could throw a Haggis at it
     
  12. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    I have already tried that :)
     
  13. JBurch

    JBurch Active Member

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    If a Haggis can't scare it apart, IT's STUCK!!
     
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  14. vashtsdaytona

    vashtsdaytona Active Member

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    Don't do this without thinking it through. But are we at the point we beat up on the stud with the biggest hammer you got and hope for the best? It may break other parts though. Just throwing out desperation ideas
     
  15. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    It is getting desperate as everything I try does not budge it. But I will persevere a little at a time and eventually get it out. I have tried a hammer and a punch but I don't want to break the cylinders or the crankcase so I have not dealt it heavy blows. I am going to work on other parts of the bike for a day or two, put some PB Blaster on it and try again cheers.
     
  16. JBurch

    JBurch Active Member

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    Rather than swinging a hammer, the air hammer is a much better choice; you have greater control of the force applied.
     
  17. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Air hammers are great unfortunately I don't have one I have seen them being used on seized car parts, brilliant they are. I wonder if a hammer drill would work although it rotates as well as having a hammer action which is not ideal? When I get this out I will be having a few beers.
     
  18. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    I used to go to Appleyards in Keighley to the Goldwing open day. still got the wing, dunno if they still do the open day though. quite a gathering hundreds of us.
    stu
     
  19. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    I used to go down on the bike nice road from the motorway to Skipton. Good selection of bikes in that dealership.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2020
  20. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    you need a 12mm hole saw 150mm long
     

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