Starter Clutch Bearing install

1982 Maxim 750. Anyone got any tips for installing the roller bearing that the starter clutch rides in.I took it out to inspect. I cleaned the place it sits in and reoiled the bearing and where it sits and when I tried to push it in it came to a stop. So I took a screwdriver with a rubber end and put it on the bearing and tapped it with a mallet. It moved in some more and now it won't go any furthur. Is is supposed to just pop in with hand force? If so I'll try to get it back out and realign it. Hopefully I didn't damage it by hitting it.

 

Here is the bearing in question, damn thing is stuck. I tried getting it out for about 20 min this morning. I wacked the back side of the case with a hammer, I tried pulling on it. Won't budge.

 

Heat on the aluminum (torch) and then cold on the bearing (ice cube) should make it easier to insert or remove. If you remove it first you can then pop it in the freezer before heating the aluminum for insertion. It might just slide in by hand at that point.

 

Good idea! Try to get it out tonight with a bearing puller because It got cocked sideways when installing it and give the refrigerator a shot!

 

Use MAP gas instead of propane.

 

How did you get it out the first time? I'm asking because I made a thread to ask this but I didn't get any responses. I'm trying to get mine out without damaging anything.

 

The first time I just grabbed the middle of it and it kind of came out a little bit and then I took a rubber mallet and hit the back of the case where the bearing sits and it moved a little bit more till I was able to just pull it out by hand.

 

I'm going to use a bearing puller to try and get mine out again tonight and I'm planning on just replacing it as I've pulled on it and whacker it to much for comfort.

 

Might as well. Better safe than sorry.

 

Got the bearing out with one pop of the slide hammer. Looking at the bearing seat it looks like there is a scratch or soemthing. I can feel it with my fingernail. Here are some pictures of it, it's not the thing in the bottom of the seat, it goes up the side. Y'all think this will cause a problem?

 

Being that the outer race of the bearing doesn't spin, and that it's not a seal, I think you will be fine as long as the bearing sits in its place flush.

 

Alright, heating that area up and chilling the bearing should help too

 

I took some emry cloth and smoothed out that ridge today. Anyone got any tips for keeping the bearing lined up. I don't want a repeat of the first time and creating a ridge on the seat. I tested reinstalling and it gets cocked sideways almost immediatly.

 

How are you driving it back in?

 

Well I was lining it up by hand till it stopped and then I was gonna tap around the edges with soft part of a screwdriver. I didn't go all the way yet because I haven't gotten the new bearing yet, I am a bit hesitant to tap it as I don't want to gouge the seat if I get it cocked sideways.

 

In your first and third photographs what are the lines at right angle to the bearing housing at the bottom ? Are you putting grease round the outside of the bearing when you are trying to fit it? I have seen bearings being pressed in with the press bearing on the outer race only and substantial support behind the bearing housing to support it. Hopefully you will not need a press, it is keeping it square as you stated is the most important thing.

 

This might help have a look. They are crankshaft bearings.

 

I am a mechanic, and the best way I have found to drive a seal or bearing in straight is to use a special driver. Being that you don't have one, I would recommend getting a socket that is the same size as the outer race of the bearing, and a long extension that fits into the socket. Then you support the case behind the bearing area and tap it in making sure the extension and socket are both straight and against the bearing flat. Harbor frieght is a great place to get hammering sockets. Also lube is your friend.

 

I think it was there when I took it out the first time, I cant remember really. But it has no depth to it. If I run my finger over it there is no change.

 

Alright thank you, I will look into that!

 

Also from what I can tell the bearing has a rear face it sits against, so if that is true then there isn't a chance for you to install it too far. You will know when it is fully seated as the tone of the sound from tapping it in will change.

 

So I finally got mines out and basically figured out how to get it back in very easily. What I did was face the bearing downwards, heated up the case with a map pro torch. After I tapped the case with a piece of 2x4 and nothing happened I heated the case more. I heard a very quiet pop and looked at the bearing to find that it had fallen out half way. I was still unable to gently pry it out the rest of the way so I put a rag in the space under it and heated the case again. In less than a minute I looked at the rag and there the bearing lay. So here is what I would recommend for the best installation process since heat and gravity was enough to remove it. Put the bearing in your freezer overnight. When you go to install it heat the case, making sure to keep the flame moving to heat evenly and not overheat any spots. In theory the bearing should go in very easily if not just drop in. Good luck my friend.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Koyo-6004-Open-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00DBNVRS2
Hey look a replacement for 15 bucks including shipment. Im not going to take a chance and instead just replace it. Im even finding them cheaper.

 

Just tried what you said, except I used a heatgun and threw the bearing the freezer for like 15 min. Damn thing popped right in! Thanks man!

 

Awesome news. If it works it ain't stupid lol.