82 xj650 revival

So i bought this bike a few weeks ago it's my first XJ and my first bike build. The oil pan is leaking really bad underneath just wondering how hard it would be to change and with it being so old should I do all new gaskets? It has a 4-1 exhaust obviously not stock they had it bolted in with random bolts and their were no gaskets and the flare looks broken soni cant be getting a good seal. Should I reuse this exhaust or is it un usable? Oh and my fuse box is missing what should I do about that? In line fuses maybe? I'll attach pics any advice on where to start would be appreciated.

 

The oil pan the red circle is the oil level sensor. The frame looks to have serious corrosion at the top right of the picture.

 

It's not allways obvious if or where the sump is leaking - get under it and clean it all down to asses it, then decide. The corrosion - if it is indeed corrosion is not unusual under there and will need looking at, probably engine out repair, but nothing hard to do.
I can't make out if that stud removal has worked or been cocked up? Don't make a mess of this, it's easy to cock this up too.
All in all a very nice project, once the little jobs are done. One at a time. Has it run yet? If not do that first, check valve clearances, gears and clutch work, then brakes, frame, sump, fuse box, paint?, seat - hours of fun!

 

My machine has been welded at the side stand. What kind of welding is best for frame repair. It's a skill l need to learn on scrap metal to begin with.

 

I see what your saying about the corrosion I will address that thanks for pointing it out. It's a complete bike with original seat even original saddle bags that I will probably sell. Yes the bike runs and it runs well when I bought it it fired right up and rode down the road but it idled really rough and I think it was cuz the boots were all ripped on the carbs. I rebuilt the carbs and got new boots. I'm going to pull the Motor and do the valve cover and check clearance. I'm hoping that the oil pan (Or sump sorry like I said this is my first build so not sure what that is) just has a bad gasket. Do you think I should do all gaskets in the motor since it's so old? And do you have any advice on what to do about the missing fuse box? Are in line fuses a bad idea?

 

I didnt notice that corrosion until now I agree I'll have to weld everything up it's a hollow tube frame so I should be able to weld in a new section thanks for pointing that out

 

It's a common problem with the frames in that area near the sidestand I believe. Should be a good project for you getting the bike sorted out.

 

So I got my 81 xj550j maxim a couple weeks ago the po said that it just needed the carbs tuned and a shifter shaft seal. Well come to find out one of the bolts and springs that hold the clutch in the basket where snapped off taking the post with it so I ordered a new clutch basket fo an 83 550 seca should fit. It looks like this guy had wrecked this bike on the left side judging by the case cover and the fact that the pedal doesn't want to go back on like something forced It off. So my question is if it was wrecked on the left side is their anything i need to check for? He had the clutch rigged with springs as well and obviously he was doing something inside the cluth housing (to break bolt off) could it have been damaged from the fall on the opposite side maybe if the shifter shaft hit hard? I dunno guys just looking for advice as I've never wrecked a bike before. You can see in the pic below that it hit hard enough to blow a hole in the left case cover

 

Doubtful wrecked clutch dropping it on the left side more likely he over tighten the bolts and snap them off and that's why he sold the bike. Or the bolt snapped locked up the bike and he dropped it on the left side. For the shift lever use a wedge screwdriver spread the Gap a little then it should slide right on .

 

The clutch bolt and spring do wear and stretch and have to be replaced whenever you take the clutch apart.

 

Thank you for the advice their I bought the new (used) basket comes with the bolts and springs. Should get new bolts and springs I know but girls budgets sake I'm going to try and make these work just for one season then I'll redo the clutch. He has springs holding on to where the clutch cable attaches on the top of the clutch cover that are not stock could their be something wrong with the clutch that would require extra springs to hold it back?

 

New bolts for sure

 

we have a few threads where clutches grenade which is comonally caused by bolt failure.
not a pretty sight to see

 

Ok I'll get new bolts I dont need that happening. I am going to attach a pic of the spring setup he had on here can anyone tell me why he did this or maybe an idea of what is up.

 

there is a spring that goes on the clutch push lever to tension the lever
I can see part of yours. does it still hook to lever and case?

 

a possible cause of oil leaks ,is a blocked crankcase breather pipe. in your case it looks like the breather pipe has been stopped off with with a bolt. you need to put a breather filter on the top of the clutch case. the pressure build up could force oil out of places, that would'nt normally leak.
stu

 

I don't really have a oil leak problem where should I put a breather would I be able to get a new clutch cover that has one? Not sure what your saying I'm sorry it's my first bike

 

The black pipe below your carburettor pod filter bensalf is referring to. The pipe stub is on your crankcase so you don't need another clutch cover. The pipe connects to the air filter as Yamaha designed it but since your machine has pods fitted someone has just blocked the pipe with a bolt. This causes increased pressure inside the crankcase which is normally sent back into the engine if the original Yamaha airbox is there and the black pipe connected to it.

 

Piston rings and bores are not a perfect seal so this causes increased pressure in the crankcase which is normally fed back into the engine. You can buy a small filter to fit the stub on your crankcase in place of the black pipe that is there now. Alternatively you can refit the original Yamaha airbox and filter and connect the black pipe to it.

 

If you opt for the small filter get one with a male nipple, use the hose and mount the filter away from your leg. Your pant leg won’t stink Of combustion fumes

 

oh, i thought in your first post you said the oil pan was leaking,
anyway, you need something like this , either connected to the end of the pipe, where the bolt is, or , a female breather would go directly onto the stub on top of the crankcase.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12MM-Rou...4a40890153d66ff985fa|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524
stu

 

Your first bike? Is this first before or after the 650 maxim in your first post. You are confusing the forum with two different bikes - or at least pictures of them. So you now have a 650 maxim and a 550?

 

Yes 650 was my first 2 weeks later I picked up the 550 I am sorry everyone I thought I was posting the 550 questions in a different thread so that's my bad. I do have an oil leak on the 650 it has the breather hose going to the airbox then their is a smaller hose coming out of the airbox that has a bolt in it should I remove that bolt. Again I am sorry I thought I was posting the 550 pictures in my 550 thread. 550 has no airbox and a bolt in the line I ordered a couple breather filters for it though. Again so sorry

 

Close, but not quite. The small amount of combustion gasses that go past the rings are minimal (in fact they had better be minimal, otherwise you got toruble) in comparison to the volume of air in the crankcase. Seal the crankcase, and the air gets compressed just like the air in the combustion chamber does, though not to the same ratio. Without a breather that pressure overcomes the crankcase seals and pushes oil out of wherever the easiest path happens to be.

 

Kevin Cameron also talked about crankcase windage. He talked about how it could cause power loss and how manufacturers dealt with it.

 

the smaller pipe coming from underneath the airbox is a drain pipe , remove the bolt every so often ,to drain the pipe, depending on millage and climate, say twice a year.
stu

 

The airbox drainpipe shouldn't have a bolt in it at all.

 

yeh ,probably not. -- my Goldwing has two drain pipes , both have factory fitted plastic plugs in them, its part of the service sheduel to drain them.
i've often wondered about these "open" drains , as they are on the carburettor side of the airbox, so have suction applied, the ends are also in direct line with the wheels, so have the potential to suck up dust e.t.c. . i know some models have a type of one way valve ,just inside the airbox, but my 600 does'nt.
stu

 

Thank you very much for the advice. My oil leak seems to be coming from the valve cover and leaking down the front of the head and the sump is leaking too, I'm hoping I just need to do gaskets. The bike fires up and runs as is but I had a carb issue that I figured out (had rust in the choke holes inside the bowls) got rebuild kits for them. Does xj 4ever do full engine gasket kits?

 

Full gasket kits are avaialble, but you don't need that if the only leaks are from the valve cover and sump. Engine disassembly is the last thing you want to get involved with.

 

Ok so these 40 7ear old gaskets that arent leaking will be ok? I just want to keep this bike running well.

 

Yes. Gaskets that aren't leaking don't need to be touched. I had a tractor that was built in the late 50's that still had most of the original gaskets. No leaks.

 

Holy crap!!! Don’t ride it til you get THIS fixed, too!!!

 

Is it the sump or the o ring on the oil level sensor?

 

Ok in assuming your referencing that weird spring setup. What is that for and how do I fix it? What would be the proper way?

 

Ya know I'm not sure I'm gonna clean it up and check, I've been busy with work lately so havent had time

 

Exactly......
1. If the clutch cable is that sticky, get a new cable
2. If the return spring is broken, replace it
3. If the clutch springs are bad, you’re a timebomb with only a few moments left
4. If the lever needs to be re-indexed, do it.
5.so, the spring end is in a hole drilled into the frame?

I don’t think you want to be on that bike when you have to suddenly downshift to get away from a close call.......hit the throttle and all you get is a redlined RPM and no clutch.

What was it for? I’m HOPING that it was SUPPOSED to be a VERY short-term emergency repair, just so someone could get home, but never got finished.

‘My guess from zooming in to look at it is that either:
1. The clutch cable is sticky and not returning fast en0ugh so this is for extra return-spring strength (get a new cable or clean and lube it if it’s otherwise still good)
2. The Cable is fine but the adjustment at the perch is way out of whack (get the adjustments back in order)
3. The wrong cable is on, and it’s too short, so the springs pull it back tighter ( get a correct cable)
4. The clutch inside is worn out and is slipping, these springs being a cheap solution to try and gain some grip (do the clutch job)

I’d remove the goofy springs and diagnose the issue. This is NOT the best solution, but in a emergency, it could at least get someone home.

 

I see what might be a broken clutch throwout return spring.
No bueno.

 

I’ve zoomed in as far as I can, and I see the coil on the shaft, and I see the hook farther back on the arm.......But it’s entirely possible that it’s broken at the bottom instead. That would be an easy fix......install a new spring.

dfox

 

thank you very much I havent even started this bike since I've gotten it I have a new complete clutch basket for it. The spring seems to be fine but the cable is extremely sticky so I think it was a temp fix for an extremely sticky cable. I will be doing the clutch and basket and clutch cable before I ride this bike thank you very much again. Also I'm gonna fill this hole he drilled in the frame. The po was a dummy he rode it like this lucky it didnt go wrong

 

your 550 thread
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/81-xj550j-help.129392/#post-651411

there is a device to lube cables it clamps around the cable and you squirt lube down a hole. it can be used to flush the cable before lubing wd40 works well as a cleaner about the only use I have for it. seafoam spray works well too but is costly
nice tool for under 10$

 

This was extremely helpful this is what I did. Was this what you were meaning? I'm not worried about my leg smelling I like the way it looks. Cant find an airbox for this so this is the only option.

 

If you think your only option is to run pods on this - and you're prepared to go the distance in getting them to work, you should get some decent ones - k&n would be my choice, cheap chinesium ones are rubbish at filtering and airflow, and have been known to block the air correctors and also the inlet to the lower diaphragm chamber (I binned mine).
Then you should really fit a set of plastic tee fittings to the flat ends of the pods (by drilling the ends), connect them all together and to the vent tube from the crankase. The point about the crankase breather is that it "breathes" both ways, so you really don't want a cheap filter on there.

 

Yes small filter on the crankcase stub as you have done.

 

As stated above ^^^ the rubber on some of the cheaper pods blocks the oval air inlet on CV carbs. You will have to take a look at your pods and see if the rubber is covering or restricting the oval opening that allows air to make the diaphragm rise and lower. Just want you to get the best performance you can with the pods in place and not drive your self nuts trying to trouble shoot why the bike might not be performing the way it should. Good luck.

 

Thank you everyone for all this advice. These pods came on the bike I havent gotten Tim to change them yet but I will. They have been modified on the inside with a razor blade to not block anything but I agree these are cheap crappy pods. As for the crank case breather this pod that i got has a pretty good review on working well for this application I will upgrade to a better one if I have any trouble. Thank you everyone. What would be the best jet kit to get this to run properly?

 

Will I have to worry about moisture getting in through the filter over the winter? It is stored in a portable garage with no floor.

 

That won't be a problem. Some condensation will accumulate inside the engine no matter what you do short of preparing it for multi-year storage by removing the exhaust, carbs, and plugging every hole with a gasketed fitting, which is entirely unnecessary in your case.

 

Hah, now here you have a problem. There are theories on how to rejet, but very little actual evidence on what has worked for people. Personally I believe it's not just jets, but springs and needles need to be involved, and maybe even float level to a small degree. But I have never done this, so don't have the info you need. Hence most peple will advise you to put an airbox back on....

 

the companys that sell the kits set you up with a kit based on the mods to your bike.
if you look in the information overload thread it tells you what you need to get to a good starting point

at the bottom of this link will be an explanation
http://xjbikes.wikidot.com/carb-specs