81 xj550j help

Hello everyone this forum is excellent I appreciate all the help I've received and want to become a premium member as soon as I can. Now i bought a used clutch basket for my 81 xj550j maxim because the PO broke one of the bolts out of the original clutch basket I have a digital copy of the manual thanks to another member so I think I can do this my question is should I re use my clutch plates or the plates that are in the new complete basket? Also should i drain the oil first? And is their away to get around having the clutch boss holder tool as I dont have one? Thanks everyone I'll attach a pic of the new clutch basket I got off ebay.

 

put bike in gear and step on the brake pedal that will hold the clutch for you to undo the nut.
a 2x4 may help hold down the pedal . also tighten up the rear brake adjuster to get a good grip with the brakes.

CLUTCHES 101-Part 1: the 400/550/600s with pics

the metal plates can be cleaned and reuse if they meet spec on warpage, the fiber discs can also be reused if thickness is in spec.
new parts are best but old parts can be reused if in spec.
clutch springs have a spec too. bolts get new ones is the best advice. if you lean the bike over far enough you do not need to drain oil but it makes the job harder to do when you do not have the proper tool.

you may be able to rent the tool(s) you need from chacal. have a conversation with him
XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION P: THE TOOLBOX

HCP10543 Aftermarket clutch drum HOLDER TOOL. In order to install the clutch drum retaining nut HCP3204 above, you have to lock the clutch drum and prevent it from turning while the nut is torqued. This tool uses a re-cycled drive plate to hold the basket while the nut is being removed or installed, thus spreading the load more evenly and equally than the HCP9237 tool listed above. Light-duty design is not recommended for shop use, but it works just fine for periodic (individual) use. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models.
Purchase Price: $ 24.95
Rental Rate: $ 0.95 per day

 

Thank you that's very helpful. I need a second opinion does this oil filter bolt look welded to anyone? I'll attach a pic. How do I get it off it wont turn and I dont want to strip it I have a new filter to put in.

 

Spray it with w/d 40 and let it penetrate, tap on the head of the bolt serval times and take a good pair of channel locks to it for starters.
Looks like your going to need a new bolt ,it's more then just a simple bolt, may cost you a few bucks.

 

it does look like someone welded a nut to it

 

Ok guys I have another question for you guys. what is this part called so I can find a replacement since it's obviously leaking oil. It runs from the valve cover to the cluster.

 

that is your tach cable. there is a seal and oring that needs replacing inside
part 4 and 2
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1981/xj550rh/tachometer-gear


https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/tach-gear-housing-oil-seal-replacement-w-pics.19538/

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/another-tach-gear-housing-oil-seal-replacement.118797/

 

WD-40 is not a penetrating oil.

KROIL, PB-BLaster, or (my favorite) a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone are all penetrating oils.

 

I know I used PB blaster

 

when you do your oil filter look for the spring and the washer part 10 and 11. washer may be stuck to filter gromet. you may also want to seal the base of cover with rtv to prevent leaks the large o ring part 9 may not do it.
you can also see the crush washer on the drain plug it may/should be replaced to prevent oil drips

 

I really do appreciate everything that this forum has helped me with. This is a priceless source of help and information. Thank you everyone.

 

I need some advice guys I need to winterize my bikes and need to know the easiest and cheapest way. Also i will be working on them throughout the winter.

 

Park it the garage.
I generally treat a tank of gas with StaBil and a little Marvel Mystery Oil, then go for a 1/2 hour ride.
After the bike cools I change the oil, hook up the battery to a tender, and drain the carbs.

 

Ok. I only have a portable garage workshop so that will have to do. The problem is that the xj550 doesn't run at the moment I have to get the clutch repaired and I have to get the tach cable gear seals done. Also I can't get the oil filter to come out the bolt was welded back together at some point in its life and is seized on their i am going to do the spin on conversion from xj4ever. So is their a way for me to do it without the bike running? Maybe drain all the gas tank and carbs? Drain the oil and just fill it up without filter change? I have a new filter just camt get it apart like I said. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

I replaced the hose coming out of the crank case that was supposed to go to the air box with a breather filter. This was something another member said I needed to do for pressure in the crank case reasons. I store and work on my bikes in a portable garage which has a dirt floor should i worry about moisture getting into the case? Also the po welded up a straight pipe exhaust which I dont mind but it is touching the oil filter housing slightly so not sure if that will be a problem. Also it is very close to the sump underneath will this be a problem? Also this bike didnt come with the maintenance stand so can I buy one that isnt attached to the bike to keep it upright? I'll attach pics please let me know if any of this will be a problem.

 

In that case remove the gas tank, drain it, lightly oil the interior, and set it on a shelf.
Pull the carbs for cleaning and seal replacement over the winter. Stuff rags into the intake to keep mice and such out.
Deal with the oil as part of the oil filter bolt removal.

 

Ok thank you for the advice. Will the rags work for moisture as well? it is sitting in a portable garage with no floor not even sure if moisture will be a problem just dont wanna risk anything going wrong in the motor

 

I stuff wine corks in the tail pipes to keep mice out. I like to put a bit of oil down the spark plug holes and slowly turn the engine by hand.

 

My pipes are straight piped so it would have to be a big cork. Does anyone know if i have to worry about moisture because I put that breather filter in place of where the crank case connects to the air box.

 

What kind of oil would I use to oil the tank up and will the rags in the crank case keep moisture out as well?

 

So my 550 doesn't run at the moment so I want to change the oil without filter since it is stuck. How would I change the oil on a cold engine? Do I just let it drain or will it be too thick to drain all of it out? I dont want sludge in the engine so I want to put different oil in jaso ma2. Who knows how long the oil that's in it has been their. Thank you in advance for any help.

 

Just drain it. Being cold only makes it take longer to drain.
IMO you need to tackle the filter bolt before putting new oil in her. My prior advice about an oil change was made before I realised that the bike does not currently run.

 

Ok I found some melting of wires by the battery on my 81 xj550j maxim it is off the positive cable on something I'm not quite sure what it is can you help keep identify what this is?

 

That looks like a starter solenoid. A suzuki starter solenoid. Ewww....but the melting you see looks to be just a worn area from the wire cover rubbing on the frame.
Get some liquid electrical tape to fix the worn area, and undo the bolts to clean the corrosion off. Alos see if the solenoid mount is still there (it's a rubber cup that the solenoid fits into. If its gone then get one, or use tiestrape sot secure the solenoid so that it cannot move around and rub the insulation off again.

 

thats the starter solenoid , the melting probably caused by a rusty / corroded connection . pullback the rubber boot then clean up all the connections on both ends of the thick cables.
stu

 

I have located a 550 maxim airbox for you. the seller has it listed as a seca air box but it has the metal bracket that is unique to the maxim. you will need 1 box to carb boot



link in our conversation

 

Awesome thank you I actually have the carb boots from my original box it came with thos just no box. Can I get new box to carb boots anywhere that way they are new? Or do they not make any?

 

Should I replace it with the right starter solenoid?

 

only if the current one does not work properly.

 

Is their a place to buy all new screws for my xj550 carb rack? I pulled the carbs today and the po stripped every single screw.

 

I robbed the solenoid off my xj650 and it works good.

 

i measured size lengths and purchased them from china for penneys nice stainless steel allen heads. the carb hats have 2 different lengths.


if your in a big hurry get then from www.xj4ever.com he has them

 

So my xj550 clutch basket replacement went well I do have an issue my bike is rolling but when i go to start i get no neutral light and bike will not fire just turns over and over. Any ideas on why the light wouldnt come on? Is this a safety feature that it has to be on? Also would the kickstand being down not allow the bike to start

 

light gould be burnt out, the neutran switch is under shifter cover wire with ring terminal screwed to switch.
ground the wire light should come on
sidestand issues would not allow bike to turn over,

 

Looking for the best way to clean my carbs after soda blasting them without an ultrasonic cleaner. Can I just soak them in warm water to break down the bicarb soda? Or should I use a chemical of some kind?

 

This is my idea for the airbox replacement I think it will work great. Any thoughts?

 

there is a thread somewhere here where its been tried i do not recall the results.
you may want to try centering the pod between carbs 2 and 3,
or go out the ends with 90 degree to face two pods forward sort of a ram air effect.
I would use rubber to connect to carbs and pipe maybe a raidator hose.
you also need to think about a rack support so the weight of the carbs is stabilized.

 

Thank you for that advice I have the air filter coming off carb #2 because that goes right up under the seat where the box used to be but I see what your saying. If I center it hits the battery box. I agree with radiator hose as a connector to the carbs, I was planning on using rubber boots of some kind and that sounds like it will work. I was thinking metal zip ties to hang it from the frame and support the weight. The carbs should hold it steady after the weight is supported.