Is a clutch rebuild necessary?

Yamaha yx600 radian. I just rebuilt my clutch. I should have read the manual a little more closely instead of skimming. The manual states that the points on the clutch plates should be staggered by 72 degrees, with the last two plates going in the 1 and 3 position.

My brain decided to stagger them by 60 degrees with the last plate overlapping in the 1 position.

I feel like it shouldnt be a problem but I figured I'd get a second opinion. Is it absolutely necessary for me to go back into the clutch or should it be okay probably?

Thanks guys.

 

specs are specs do it over.
the positions are used to sling oil you do not want a dry clutch

 

Balls...

 

maybe @Polock can post the photos he has access to a clutch grenading.
beter to do it over than end up in that situation.
besides changing a clutch is considered a right of passage, congratulations


look at this thread
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/thre...ngine-rebuild-link-to-pics.47997/#post-426749

it has Polocks photo

 

Yea I just checked out that thread. Going back into the clutch dosnt sound as bad as possibly dying on the highway I suppose.

Also, was I supposed to put thread lock on the clutch bolts??

 

Thread lock not needed, just correct torque. And did you pre soak the fibre plates?

 

I've never dealt with clutchissues on the yamaha's but why is it so comprehensive to do?
My experience with clutches is; take m apart en just put the fresh plates in.

 

Yea I soaked all of the plates prior to installation.

 

never did that, never understood why i should. enlighten me

 

To make sure that the friction plates are all evenly oiled from the get-go. It's really a holdover from when friction plates were lined with cork, but it's not a bad idea with modern friction materials either. It will ensure an even and smooth grab on the first ride after replacing the plates.

 

You soak the friction plates in oil so you get your hands oily when you assemble the clutch.

 

Its part of the right of passage pain that seems to be common here - if you haven't taken the medicine you can't be a real xj owner...

 

I rebuilt my clutch, like years ago, and to this day the bastard grabs, only on one of my bikes.
So before I put it in gear, on the centre stand I spin it up to 3rd gear and back down again to first violently and then pop it into neutral before i hop off the centre stand.
Just so I don't stall when I put it in first from neutral from the get go.
Would love to know what the hell is going on, I am hoping it will go away one day but any opinion on that would be good.
For the rest of the day there isn't an issue, of course.

 

Have you tried starting the engine and pulling the clutch lever a few times before putting it in gear to get more oil between the plates? I know it's unlikely that but it's easy to check it.

 

Definitely tried that one.
I think I may have a mismatch of a 900 basket to a 750 hub with 900 springs.
I did replace all the fibre plates. the steel plates with genuine new plates and the springs, should've left it alone. ack!
Although it never slips, as it did originally on acceleration.
Even still it bugs me, feels like I'm going to screw up a drive dog somewhere in the gearbox when I pop it into first.
Maybe the springs are too long.
Hmm...

 

Bugs me too when there is something wrong with my bike or any other vehicle I have had. Here are the parts for the 750 clutch and 900.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1982/xj750j/clutch

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1983/seca-xj900rk/clutch

Clutch basket and bosses have different part numbers.

 

Thanks Franz.
Time to just pull that sucker out again.

 

It is only happening with a cold engine. I would start the bike and let it get hot before trying to put it in gear to check if the problem disappears.

 

Did you use the 750 metal plates or the 900 plates? The 900 plates are about 0.5mm thicker (each one) than the 750 plates (friction discs are the same thickness between 750 and 900 engines), thus resulting in a taller stack, which will never fully release.

Although, looking at the components list, it's probably best not to mix-and-match clutch components. Hub, baskets, springs, pressure plates all differ (but besides some obvious differences, I don't know what the specific are). XJ750RL and XJ900 RK/RL models use all the same components; once you get into the later model XJ900 engines, they are fully different (6 springs instead of 5), and of course all of the XJ750 (besides the 1984 RL version) differ from all of the 900 major parts.

 

On the day...
I followed the 900 specs, since it is a 900 engine.
When I actually did the fit I noticed that the codes on the hub were 750.
Didn't think much of it at the time but now it seems to be the issue.
Strip down and will report my findings. Damn got me again. Probably why it was slipping originally.