XJ600 '85 (51J) Stripping for restoration (back break pedal and suspension stuck)

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum and after searching through existing threads and the Haynes Manual for the above mentioned XJ600 '85 I decided to open this thread (I hope this is ok) as I was unable to find anything related to my issue. However, great threads that I already learned plenty from and helped me with my quest.

I have acquired an XJ600 '85 (51J) in a very poor condition that was kept in a hedge for 10 years. This is my first project, and probably should have picked something different, however where is the fun in that! I have almost stripped the motorbike apart from the back brake pedal and the rear suspension.

Back brake pedal
- I have removed the washer and the circlip (at least that what it looked like)
- Sprayed it excessively with the magic WD40
- I have knocked it with a drift and hammer to free it
- Freed it in such way that it rotates (it was stuck at first)
- More WD40 and left for half an hour prior to attempting to remove it again
- Using a flat screwdrive and hammer to knock it
- I have checked on the back of it in case it has some sort of a safety pin or lock, however it does not seem to be the case
- I have triple checked the Haynes manual and there is nothing regarding back brake pedal removal
- Surprisingly nothing on youtube (or atleast I wasn't able to find)

Outcome - It rotates freely I am able to slide it out for a few mm, however that is all.



Rear suspension (monoshock)
- I have freed the top part where the rear monoshock is attached to the frame (removed the bolt, nut, spacers and washers)
- I have undone the bottom nut where the monoshock is attached (via this metal bracket looking like) to the bottom of the frame via a big bolt and a nut
- I have undone the nut
- I have sprayed it excessively with WD40
- Tried various lengths of wrenches, full weight on them, moving the full frame ...
- Tried knocking it with a drift from the side where the nut was
- I have tried to remove it from the mentioned metal bracket (however it seems like it comes that way) again contradicting with the Haynes manual, please refer to photo for better understanding

Outcome - The bolt doesn't even budge ... I have my suspicion that it is welded to the frame (again nothing to suggest that it is the case according to the Haynes manual)





Question - Am I missing something ? Is there any other methods I should try ? Worst case scenario should I just use my angle grinder and cut the bolt and the pivot for the pedal ?

P.S. I am sorry about the long post, I thought I would provide as much detail as possible. Furthermore, I will provide a few photos that would maybe provide a better explanation.

Thank you in advance,
Zee

 

Hi, so most likely both parts are seized as they were on mine, I wouldn't suggest cutting it either as it would be a nightmare trying to source parts on an xj/fj 600 from that time unless you can get one from a breaker or on ebay cheaply. Trust me most of my parts were sourced all over u. s. a, Japan etc doing the exact same thing your thinking of doing. The only thing that would free it likely is a massive amount of heat and am talking acetylene/welding type of heat something which would turn it white hot and break the rust free, looks like you have most of the bike split couldn't you take the frame to an engineering firm locally they would more likely have the equipment like this to free it.

 

Hi there, thank you for the quick response! That does make sense to be fair and sourcing the parts could be a nightmare indeed. That is a great idea, I will have a look somewhere locally and check for an engineering company. I will update the result and once complete post the complete strip down with photos and comments.

 

first off , WD40 is not a penetrating oil, its just a water dispersant, hence the WD.
get some good penetrating oil ,like "plus gas" or "freeway", and leave on for a couple of days.
re the brake pedal,
the end of the stub shaft has probably got burred over, and rusted up, after the penetrant, try tapping it back inward ,and lightly filing around the shaft end, theres nothing else to hold it on.
re- the shock link,
theres a steel bush that revolves in the shock link eye, but your problem is the bolt is stuck in the frame bushes, you need to free the bolt first , a plumbers blow torch ,on the frame should free it , tapping a spanner back and forth, till it frees off

 

heres what you're looking at really

 

Thank you for your response, I will give that a go! Never realised that WD40 isn't a penetrating oil, I am glad you have mentioned that! I will be going online to find some. Thank you for the photos of the shock as well! I will keep you posted!

 

If you don't have access to oxy-acetylene torch, a simple bottle torch using MAPP gas will great increase your heat capacity vs. regular propane. Heat is gonna be your friend with that much rust. If you're forced to cut something, always pick the part you can find used easiest of course.

Best of luck, that sure is a big undertaking for a first resurrection! Did you verify that it even runs before diving in that deep?

 

Heating will certainly assist with loosening rusted bolts, but don't use excessive heat. Don't get it white hot (or even close).

 

Agreed - been using a MAPP gas torch on some copper plumbing recently - its massively hotter than propane - takes no time to get up to heat.

 

Zee, _ _ ,if thats you bidding on the xj600 rear shock, let me know ,and i wont put any more bids in?
stu

 

Hey man, sorry for the late reply. No that is not me. Thank you for letting me know tho!

 

Hey man, thank you for the message! Just got my hands on the 'Plus Gas' penetrating oil and applying it now to see how it would affect it for the next few days and attempt it without any heat first. In addition, just trying to turn the engine and see how bad it is prior to moving forward! Will keep you posted.