LED upgrade

Hello all, so I'm going to start by saying I'm not amazing at understanding electrical I've currently purchased a new led relay (2pck) 4 12v turn signals, and led tail light with integrated signals also 12v, my plan is to use both the tail light signals and outer rear signals... My question is what else do I need so I don't fryy electrical due to over voltage ? And is there anything else I should get

 

I used LED turn signal bulbs and my Turn signals wouldn't flash due to the design of the T/S relay that was original to the bike , so I switched back to what bulbs I had before the LED Tail and Brake lamp was no problem.

 

i did the same set up as you using the same rear light , but my turn signals were the flowing amber ones, and they dont need a flasher relay,
i went all led including headlight and dash.
i had all kinds of problems with back feeds, interfeering with each other, luckilly i'm an electrician, so i was able to sort it out ,but it took me about 3 days.
had to resort to fitting resistors and diodes in almost every circuit, to get everything working right.
my turn signals also had the integrated red rear and white front led's along with the amber
i also did away with the indicators in the rear light, as they wouldnt now flash with no relay
you may be lucky ,and get away with it, but be prepared for strange things hapening

 

@bensalf do u have a direct link to where u got the bulbs for the dash

 

Just buy a two prong "no load" flasher, and they will flash normal with any amount of led lights added... Flasher should only be connected to the (shared)negative side of the signal circuit. Your problem is the less don't pull enough power load to make an oem flasher work properly.


https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Clean-10853-Flasher-Fixed/dp/B00H8KDON0

 

If you only have a single turn indicator on the speedometer cluster you will also need a metric diode setup available at super bright LEDs and it has a wiring diagram.

 

The signal dash indicator has constant power with key and kill switch on, left signal is its own circuit, as is right signal, along with dash light power are all separate, what makes them work together is a shared negative selected with signal switch from chassis ground passing thru flasher.


I guess I should mention I have a severely modified wiring harness, deleted........auto signal canceling, side stand switch, resistor/diode block and safety cut relay were all thrown out, upgraded to 4 position blade fuse block and use 25amp automotive relays. There is no factory or aftermarket diodes or resistors. Every light on bike is led including gauge lights and headlight. The only real load on the system only occurs when starting.