Picked up a non running project... these steps sound right?

1982 XJ750 > 38,000 miles - has not ran in at least a year.

Trying to figure out the steps I need to take in order to get this non running bike, running again before i take it apart... i'd rather know it all works before i take it apart to rebuild the carb / shim valves / rebuild the thing and not know if it actually ran before hand....

Long story short, 2 owners ago stopped riding for whatever reason, owner I just purchased it from wanted a project and replaced some things, but lost interest pretty fast - he never tried to get it running and had it for roughly a year.

What i'm planning on doing... correct me if i'm wrong.

1. Check Oil level and drain old gas (gas doesn't smell bad, and tank is super clean, but needs drained anyways, it's at least a year old)
2. Plug in new battery and do a once over and make sure all electrics are in working order (lights > power at fuse block, etc)
3. spritz some good known gas into the carbs
4. try and start the dang thing and make sure it kicks over and idles, even for a few moments.
---- if no start > troubleshoot the non starting issue
---- if it does start > follow below
5. check valve clearances > order new shims
6. clean up carbs and buy rebuild kit from the XJ forever
7. buy carb syncing tool from motion pro and get the thing set
- Drain gas from bowls and tank

It does need a number of other stuff (speedo cable, fork rebuild, etc) - but i want to make sure it runs before i dive too far into it

i'll have more questions later as I get more into it, but for now, that's the plan..

 

I get where you're coming from - verify the thing is not a basket case before spending time and treasure rebuilding forks and brakes and whatnot. Makes perfect sense to me. I'm doing the exact same thing on a bike I picked up this spring: https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj650rj-project.130799/

In my case, the bike had sat long enough where some of the moving parts in the carbs had kind of seized up and they were full of crud. So I had to pull the rack and clean them up just enough to get it to run. It didn't run well, but it was enough to make me confident that it is not a basket case.

Having an auxiliary fuel tank is nice, then you don't have to worry about what sort of old gas and crud is in the tank. It is also very useful when doing a running sync, something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NV42PQ People have made DIY aux tanks out of lawn mower tanks and whatnot - doesn't matter.

If the carbs are a problem, you could use some starting fluid to at least get it to fire.

You will probably want to assume that the engine oil is garbage too. If you don't change it before a test fire, then change it soon after.

In general, I would say that you are on the right track.

 

If you want to know if it'll run, do a compression test. If the numbers are off, check the valves, adjust, then do another. That'll tell you if it's possible to make it run. Just trying to start it means, fuel (and enrichment), spark/timing, etc) all have to be right or at least close. If it blows good compression on all cylinders, then you can fix and dial in anything else. If not, another used engine is usually cheaper and easier than a rebuild. Oh and make sure to unplug the TCI box when you do to avoid damage.

Unless carbs were rebuilt recently, just do it, and break the rack. It's a 40 y/o bike, even if it runs, you'll be chasing fueling gremlins until you do.

Brakes (rear for delamination, front for stopping power) and tires should be high on the list before you even try to ride it. It's spring time, you'll hear other bikes go by, and may be tempted to, "take it out for a quick ride," or "fix it later." Brakes also means rebuild calipers/master cylinders, new fluid, lines and pads for the front.

When running, do a charging system test (make sure it produces the right voltage at the right rpm). No sense slapping on a new battery and getting stranded 20 miles from home (I know this one personally).

Finally, check the frame out, closely, especially the underside. My '82 750 Seca had freeze damage as it was stored outside in MA winter and weep holes got clogged. Had to take it down to the frame so I could throw it in the back of my car and drive to a welder.