No power in first gear

I am the proud owner of an 85 Maxim xj700 that has no power in first gear. Once I let the clutch out it takes a few seconds of having the throttle full open and then it starts to accelerate rapidly. Any ideas oh XJ Gurus?

 

I would guess that you will need to take them carbs to the church of clean. Almost all the issues we have with our XJ's with this issue is the carbs not being fully cleaned. The Top hat diaphragms not being in place.

First XJ I fixed up, it took me six times of pulling the carbs to clean them the right way. So take your time, find the link and do them carbs right.

If you think that is not it, check for vacuum leaks, see if the fuel is getting to the carbs. Did you do a wet set on the carbs?

Good luck.

 

I did clean them but it was my first time…what’s a wet set?

 

wet set - setting your floats to close at a certain fuel level.
on bottom of your cabs is the bowl- bottom carb casting held on by 4 screws.
bowl off- attached to the upper part of the "carb body" is the float assembly,that pivots on a pin. the pin goe's into two cast aluminum "towers"-- careful, towers can and will break, treat with care.
on the float assembly is a tab. the tab make contact with the fuel valve when the fuel level in the bowl rises the tab rises,contacting the the fuel valve and rising to close/shut off fuel.
the proper fuel level required for your carbs [model, year] is posted somewhere on here.
to check wet set is messy, no bones about it. to start I bench set the floats using a [ i forget the name of the thing] mechanical calibration tool, to get all 4 into the ballpark.- not necessary, but it works for me.
there are picture post on here, to show tool, and how to use.
to check where you f. level is, attach a clear vinyl 1/4" hose to the small nipple on the rear bottom of the bowl. there is a inset screw on the bottom side of bowl right near nipple, that opens/closes nipple hole.
[try using nipple hole in a sentence ]
open screw fuel will rise in tube to the level in bowls.
in my case 1mm+ to 1mm- from bottom of carb main body, basically the seam between bowl and body. - look up details explanation is not exact.
if your level is not where it's supposed to be-"in spec" , then you must take off the bowl, adjust the float assembly tab, up or down. raising the tab up will close valve sooner, down opposite.
put it all back together and try again, and again, ect..
this means filling up 4 bowls, check, if not right, drain 4 bowls and keep doing this till correct. a PITA, a mess. I use a large aluminum commercial baking pan, large enough to contain.
good luck.

 

Ive got one for the nipple hole but don't think i should say.

 

why drain all 4? you should only have to drain the one your working with the rest should stay closed and not drain if they are full.

 

If you want to work on the float tab while it's in the upright position like it is when it's installed then, yes, you only have to drain the one. I usually like to work on them upside down so I have to drain all 4 or they'll drain on their own.... (nipple hole, there, I said it. I refuse to grow up.)

 

You really need to slowly read the "Church of Clean" and follow the instructions to the letter. If you do, you will only have to do the carbs one time. Trust me about shortcuts--took me about 4 times.

Treat the carbs and cylinders as 4 separate little engines. Each cylinder is a little different in wear and therefore each carb has to be tuned to its cylinder. One setting doesn't work for all carbs. Therefore, each carb must be wet set individually, although they can all be done at the same time.

 

I changed 4 fuel valves - 1mm longer. had to adjust all four tabs. measure all at the same time, write down which and where.
upside down you can can adjust more than one at each attempt.
plus it's easier