XJ 750 Maxim Torque Spec

Hi, I'm looking for the torque spec for the large nut that holds the drive shaft flange on the output shaft. For whatever reason, I can't find it in the manual I found. All the manual says is "torque to spec" then moves on. I replaced the seal behind it during our rebuild of our 1982 Yamaha XJ750 Maxim.

 

From the 750 Maxim service manual on xjcd.org (https://xjcd.org/index.php/node/665)

I think this is what you're looking for:

 

Interesting, I'll have to figure out how to stake this nut then. I believe it wasn't staked when I got there and it doesn't have the typical thin walled section for staking. That torque seems perfectly reasonable for that size fastener though, so I'll run with that and loctite at the worst case.

 

Do you happen to know the torque for the neutral safety switch? In the manual it says "tighten" in the only spot I've found so far.

 

The Haynes manual gives no torque spec for the neutral switch.

 

Sweet, snug it is. Thought it was just me that couldn't find it again.

 

Don't think it is in the Yamaha factory manual either.

 

Hey, do you happen to know how the neutral switch works, mine is just permanently connected to ground no matter what gear it's in. I measure a dead short from the thread for the little screw in the top to the probe in the bottom. That does not change if it is depressed. It seems like it doesn't work how I was expecting. I figured the main m12 threads would ground to the small screw in the top when the probe was depressed, but that didn't seem to occur. That or it's shot.

 

Yes, Len educated me on how this switch provided the ground as I thought like you did. I am not sure we completed the conversation, but below is what he wrote and I believe is correct - meaning a good switch will always have continuity form the screw terminal to the plunger.

"the purpose of the switch is to be a ground path for the neutral light on the dash, and the rotation of the shifter

drum into the neutral position is when a small embedded “ball bearing” in the drum comes in contact with the

plunger (thus making the ground circuit complete). I guess the purpose of the spring-loaded plunger is to

allow it to move up and down over this ball bearing”, and at all other drum positions (everything except

neutral), then the plunger doesn’t extend far enough to contact the drum……….."

 

Does the engine need oil in it for this to work as my neutral light stays on in all gears? If not, do you know what could cause that? It runs though all the gears smoothly but from what I was seeing,the neutral light stays on if the switch is installed.

 

You should measure an open from the screw terminal to the switch chassis with the switch out of the bike. With the switc in the bike in neutral it will short to chassis but not through the switch housing.

If the neurtal light is staying on only when the wire is connected to the neutral switch then that suggest the screw terminal is shorted to chassis, which would mean time for a new switch.