questions on solenoid and front brake

Hi I am new to the board and I have a newly purchased but not actually new 1981 yamaha xj 650 it went out for its first road test after having set for 23 years. I noticed when I applied the front brake the bike would shimmy pretty bad from side to side, what could be causing that the pad looks fine and so does the rotor. Next part is to start the bike i have to hit the solenoid, is there anything i can do for that or does it need to be replaced. For my last question what do tach cables usually go for? Thanks for the ear.

Live long and Prosper

 

Welcome.

Shimmy on front braking can be the rotor (check it for run-out), front wheel bearings, forks, headstock bearings or loose fasteners on any of the above.

On the starter solenoid, the starter solenoid itself is probably the least likely item. You can almost bet you have a poor electrical connection somewhere. If you look in the XJ FAQ Suggestions forum you will find a great guide on checking the starter circuits by Gamuru. LINK TO ARTICLE Your bike does not have the sidestand switch but otherwise is the same as in the article.

I'll defer to someone else on the price of a tachometer cable.

 

Hey Jzapp, here are the tach cables:

Tachometer Cables:

cac2) OEM and aftermarket Tachometer Cable, brand new with coil-wound black-sheathed housings, inner nylon sleeve, and correct ends to correctly replace snapped, frayed, or noisy originals. NOTE: the overall length of aftermarket cables may differ by 1-2" (total overall length) from original, but this can easily be compensated for in the routing and final adjustment of the cable once installed.


HCP2648 Aftermarket replacement Tachometer Drive Cable, includes the bright plated metal sleeve nut on both ends as original, for all XJ550 models and all 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and 1982 XJ650 Seca (non-turbo) models.
$ 13.00


I carry them in-stock, you can see my ad over at:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... t=195.html

 

First, quit hitting it. Second, MiCarl is probably right on the money when he said:

You better start be unplugging and cleaning all the electrical connections. Get yourself a can of contact cleaner, a small brush, and a tube of dialectic grease while you're at it.

You, too. And, welcome to the forum!

 

Yes, this is a good starting point. I would add that you should start at the BACK of the bike, tail-light/turn signal area, as there aren't that many connectors back there, and that way you'll get used to what's involved in the task before you start moving forwaard on the bike, where you'll run into a billion or so connectors that need to be cleaned....... :cry:

 

Thank you for all the input, I layed the screwdriver across the solenoid it fired right up, and all the voltage was good coming from the battery and to the ground, I have to go fashion some jump leads and then on to the next step.

 

I went through the how to test your starting system and does anybody have the colors of red/yellow, black, white, and blue/black for the starter circuit cut-off relay pigtail, my wires are different colors than the ones in the guide. Can anyone tell me why when I tap the solenoid and press the ignition it cranks and when I don't beat on it it doesn't crank. I have checked and cleaned all the electrical connections.

 

That sounds like the wiring for the headlight relay.

If you've unplugged and cleaned the starter solenoid pigtail and it still won't start unless you tap on your solenoid then it is bad. :cry: It probably has a broken solder joint inside and won't make contact unless you jar it. You'll have to repair or replace it.

Our resident parts guru, chacal, has solenoids listed:

I've purchased a number of items from him and am nothing but happy with the way he does business. In other words, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND HIM.

Cheers!

 

Sorry Jzap99. When I saw "hit" I assumed you meant "short". We coulda saved you some time if we'd taken you literally.

 

On my bike the starter button wasnt even connected. I had sauder the wire back to it.

 

Thanks for all the help everybody. I will replace the solenoid, now to tackle a new brake line leak, I have a little fluid coming out of a bolt at the end of the line going into the caliper.

Random thought for the day I think I like Star Trek Voyager, I kind of skipped over that series after next gen ended.

 

If memory serves, that bolt should have two copper crush washers. One on top of the banjo fitting and one below. Chances are, you just need to just replace these washers to fix the leak. Don't forget to re-bleed the brakes.

 

this is correct.

These brass or copper bushings are only supposed to be used once, as they 'crush' when you torque them down to provide a seal.

 

Where can you buy the crush washers?

 

Call your local auto parts stores and see if they stock brake banjo bolt crush washers. If they do, take your banjo bolt in and see if they have any that will fit. I don't think the banjo bolt was anything obscure so you should be successful in finding something. If all else fails, chacal could probably hook you up.

 

10mm is the thread size. i think 10mm x 1.25 is the 'correct' one.

 

Well of course I have them, in stock, in the correct size for all XJ bikes:

g) HCP1077 OEM brake hose union bolt copper Crush Washer, used to seal the brake hose end fitting to both the union bolt and the attachment point (be it the master cylinder, the distribution block, the lower fork tube, or the caliper). Each single-length union bolt requires the use of two crush washers, while double-length union bolts requires the use of three washers per bolt. Crush washers should be replaced every time you remove a brake hose!! NEVER use any other type of washer in place of a crush washer!!! Each:
$ 1.50

HCP1077SET2 OEM brake hose union bolt copper Crush Washer, pair:
$ 2.95

HCP1077SET4 OEM brake hose union bolt copper Crush Washer, set of 4:
$ 5.75

HCP1077SET8 OEM brake hose union bolt copper Crush Washer, set of 8:
$ 11.00

 

Chacal carries the washers as well.

 

Thanks everyone for the help.