Its just one thing after a next...Speedometer stopped workin

I was just driving down the street today and my speedometer was working fine...I did notice that when I was slowing down at one point it was pinging back and forth as the speed dropped but I didn't pay much attention...I kept on driving and the next time I looked at the speedo it wasnt working anymore! Can I get some suggestions on what might be the problem and how I might fix it? Keep in mind the glass has been broken over my speedometer and it was raining today, could that have caused this problem?

 

Re: Its just one thing after a next...Speedometer stopped wo

It could be the speedometer got moisture inside and seized up? Or it could be the cable broke or the end stripped out? You don't want to let any moisture get inside them or that will cause it to fail.

 

I've had a few XJ speedos fails over the years. Every time, though, failure has been presaged by a very noisy speedo and the needle pinging over to the right. Sometimes this has been at certain speed ranges (ie over 30mph) and once at all speeds.
If you didn't have the noise as well, I'd check that the fault doesn't lie somewhere else. Sort out the broken glass, though, on many speedos they can be dismantled and the clock faces renewed. At the very least, glue a piece of perspex over the top. Now.

 

I've had a few cable breakages, seems like the same problem. Could have come loose and half dropped out at speedo end, that happened to me twice, not on an XJ though.

 

It could be something as simple at the Ring Knurl coming loose and letting the Cable fall away from the Drive Spindle ... or,

Broken Cable
Gunked-up Cable
Drive Unit Loose
Moisture entering the face and weighting down the ability of the magnets to work on the "Bell"

Cable related.

 

Re: Its just one thing after a next...Speedometer stopped wo

How do I check for these problems?

 

A bouncing cable is often a cable issue so I would start there. Take the cable off and check both ends, oil it, and put it back on. If it still doesn't work then you can start taking the gearbox apart (requires removal of the front tire) or taking the speedo head apart.

 

Take the Cable off from the Drive Unit at the Front Wheel.
Chuck the Cable in to your Cordless Drill (any drill) and spin it slowly.
(Be sure you are spinning the Cable in the right direction)

Check the Speedo for Needle movement and smooth operation.

Clean the Cable Sheath out with a solvent.
Flush-out any old grease and oil.
Clean-off the Cable; too.

Lube the Cable Sheath.
Drip some light oil in there.
Lube the Cable and put it back innthe sheath.

Connect everything nice and snug and tight.
Test.
With a cleaned-out cable sheath and a lube job ... you should be good!

 

Re: Its just one thing after a next...Speedometer stopped wo

Yup, I pulled out the speedo cable out of the sheeth and I'm pretty sure its broken! It is suppose to have a needle on both sides right? I added an attachment of the picture of the cable. Where can I purchase a new one and how much should I be paying? Thanks for the help.
Matt

 

Hey Snow, I've got those cables, in stock:

Speedometer Cables:

cac3) OEM and aftermarket Speedometer Cable, brand new with coil-wound black-sheathed housings, inner nylon sleeve, and correct ends to correctly replace snapped, frayed, or noisy originals. NOTE: the overall length of aftermarket cables may differ by 1-2" (total overall length) from original, but this can easily be compensated for in the routing and final adjustment of the cable once installed.


HCP2647 Aftermarket replacement Speedometer Drive Cable, includes the bright plated metal sleeve nut on meter end and the metal clip-bracket on the gear end as original, for all XJ550 Maxim models, all 1980-83 XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, and all XJ750 models.
$ 15.00


http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... t=195.html

 

Re: Its just one thing after a next...Speedometer stopped wo

So from the picture it is broken right? Do I need to replace the whole setup or just the cable that goes in the housing?

 

Re: Its just one thing after a next...Speedometer stopped wo

Can't tell from your picture if it's broken or not. If you have more than one inside piece it's broken.

Both ends should be squared off. If I recall correctly, the cable is about 1" longer than the sheath. If you don't have all that the square end may still be stuck in the drive unit or the head of the speedometer.

 

One end has the depth limiting crimped-on sleeve. I believe that's the end that goes into the front wheel's drive unit.

The other end "Finds" its correct insertion length by having the opposite end limited and thrusting itself into the Instrument's connection point when the Cable Sheath is tightened-up on both ends.

The Cable should have squared ends on both endns to mmate with their particular drive.

If you rounded them off because the cable was sticking ... the instrument would naturally become erratic functioning.

 

I have also come to this problem and I installed a new cable.

Speedometer still does not work. I bought a speed gear that mounts to the front wheel off epay.

Guess ill try it later...could it be the speedometer it self?

T.I.A RIDZ

 

Put the Cable in your drill and spin it at speed to see if the instrument will give you a reading or the instrument is bad.

 

Re: Its just one thing after a next...Speedometer stopped wo

Rick - does the drill need to be reversed? Seems to me like it should be.

 

Re: Its just one thing after a next...Speedometer stopped wo

If you use a drill to test the speedometer, try it one way, if it doesn't move, reverse the drill. It won't hurt the speedometer to try turning it backwards. All there is in there is a magnet spinning around inside a cylinder to move the needle.

 

I usually use a Q-Tip chucked into the drill and YES ... in the Reverse direction ... spin the Barrel and watch to see if the Speed Indicator Needle moves.

It's an un-scientific test ... for sure!

 

While we're on the subject of speedos........how do you "gently" remove the needle from the face of the speedo (or tach) unit.....like if you want to replace a broken needle....does it just "press-fit" onto the unit, or is there something mechnically holding the needle to the meter movement (or is it glued on, etc.?)

 

I don't attempt to remove it.
I epoxy a toothpick to the remnant, then coat the toothpick with epoxy.

Trim the length with nail clippers.
Coat the toothpick with a finishing coat to even it off.

Paint the newly constructed pointer with florescent paint.

 

See also the other thread on squealing speedos. In my experience, speedos do wear out, but O've not heard of one failing suddenly - they've always gone through a phase of noisy and/or erratic behaviour first.

Speedo gearboxes in the front wheel or the cables will fail suddenly. A broken cable is simply that - take the inner out and look at it. The front gearbox usually fails as a result of the tab splines not being aligned with the drive correctly (lugs pushing on the tabs, not the gaps between them) so that initially tightening the wheel spindle makes it work, but later the tabs have been pushed back and when they slip they don't engage - realigning and straightening the tabs with a pair of pliers is usually enough.

The other way that the gearbox on the front wheel can fail (more often on other bikes - Kawa GT for example) at high mileages is where the rotating gear has ground away the housing and so it no longer lines up with the drive gear. If you can find a suitable washer/spacer or cut one out of thin plate (or plastic if you're seperate..) and put it behind the rotating gear then it should line up again.

I know I should dismantle the speedo housing and repair the needle, but it just seems such a fiddly job and I don't find a short needle annoying enough at the moment to lift it up the priority list.

 

It only take about an hour and a half to repair the Speedo Needle using some 5-Minute Epoxy.

Graft the thick end of a toothpick to the underside if the broken needle. When its epoxy-ed on there and the epoxy cures ... coat the repaired section with some more epoxy and let it built-up to form a new needle pointer.

Trim-off the excess length and let dry.
Paint with a high visible color or a florescent paint.