carbs are my nightmare

Hey, anybody know if the little metal tab on the bottom of the carb bowl that covers where the starter jet goes can be removed and if so whether or not this a good idea. If I drill that out to get at the jet since I can't seem to get them clean what should i do to reseal them. Thanks, and if this is a bad idea someone please tell me quick before I get really frustrated and just do it. Also has anyone tried blowing through them with compressed air to try and clean them out?

 

I usually just let them soak in carb cleaner($18 for 1 gal w/basket) for a day or two and they come clean. If not, I have a real small wire from my wire brush that is long enough to fit down in there and stiff enough to push through the orfice.

 

Use a baby booger sucker to force air through the holes.

 

Well I got them clean enough to see light through the jets. the spry test that gamuru showed did not get great distance bu they seemed clear enough. The bike fired up after I got the carbs all primed up and then it started idleing at like 5000 rpms and I backed the idle screw-wheel out so far it came off. Then I burnt my leg on the exhaust and got upset and walked away for now. Anyone got any ideas on where I should go now. Before I cleaned the enrichment circuits(all 4 were clogged solid by the way) it idled ok but was just hard to start. Now I don't know what I should start messing with next.

 

If it idles too fast it's getting too much air (since an engine is an air pump) so find the place where extra air is getting in and close it up. Might be the throttle cable binding and holding the butterflys open or carbs out of balance or leaking rubber boot, etc.

 

I don't have any binding so I will check for any air leaks after work tomorrow. Hopefully I just have a mesaligned boot or something.

 

check for cracks in the intake boots. Have you ever had the boots off. Did you put the gaskets back on if ya had them off? Is the throttle cable adjusted right at the perch? Have you had the bike running right at anytime? If so wat have you done to it since then?

 

If you are getting 5,000 rpm's ... the Carbs are NOT Idling!
The Butterfly's are OPEN and you are Pulling Main Jet Fuel.

You have to adjust the Idle Adjustment Rod to CLOSE the Butterflies/
Adjust the Pilot Mixture to sustain IDLE with the Butterflies CLOSED!

Then, you further adjust for Mixture supplementation to the idale to sustain Ignition in the brief moment when fresh air is introduced as the Throttles are opened.

Begin with a Business card strip Bench Sync.
Get the Butterflys mechanically in sync.
But nearly closed.
Make the bike run with the Butterfly's closed ... Use the the Pilot Mixture Screws to get the right Air~Fuel Ratio that will run the bike.

Then, begin Tuning -- Tweaking
Fastest Idle on each Carb without bogging-out or backfiring.
Colortune if you ave the Tool.
Get the Tool.

Make sure that the linkage isn't binding up under the Head.
Free the Cable connector if its bound.
No prying or bending. Break it off ... you're screwed!

Attain Idle and a rough Off-Idle and do Plug Chops.
Get individual Holes more Rich or Leaned-out as need be.

You have to be a Tweaker to be tuned-up right.
It takes time and patience.

 

I don't know the proper term for them but the barrels inside the cabs that you can see with the butterflies open. How much of a gap is there supposed to be between the bottom of the barrel and the bottom of the carb. I have like 1/4 to 1/2 in. Haven't measured exactly. are they supposed to sit flush?

 

Those are the slides. They hold the needle that slides up and down to allow fuel to flow through the main jet. The throttle controls the butterfly valves, and the due to increased air being introduced, the motor rpms rise and the vaccuum of the pistons dropping in the cylinders create vaccuum that opens the needle valve (pulls the needle up, allowing fuel to flow).

They do not sit flush with the bottom of the bore (venturi?).

I think this is a rudimentary description. Very basic, probably not precisely accurate, but generally close. I'll wait for clarification from the resident experts.

 

Close enough for Government Work.

Diaphragm Pistons.
Diaphragm Assembly.

They should be free to have travel Up and Down in the Bore without binding, vibrating or sticking.

Search: Clunk Test

Be careful handling the Pistons.
Don't drop one or let the Needle get bent.

They should fall all the way to the bottom of the Bore they are place in.