Aftermarket fuse replacement

OK, new subject, as i lick my wounds over a TCI massacre.....

I want to install a new fuse block. I did look at the how-to and saw the replacement of one under the seat. Mine is, of course in the instrument cluser. I got some tray cable (6 conductor, 16 gage, good heavy jacket) and was thinking of just zip tieing it alongside my main harness under the gas tank, going up to my existing fuses, cutting the wires, soldering, heat shrink, and moving the new block somewhere under the seat. Any thoughts from the pros?

 

Trey...your bike already uses the nice ATC style fuses (in the instrument cluster)......there's really no need to replace it! The only thing you may wish to upgrade is to get rid of the in-line main 30A fuse holder (which uses the old style glass fuse) within your main harness, and replace it with a similar style in-line fuse holder designed to accept an ATC style fuse:

rf1) Aftermarket replacement individual IN-LINE FUSE HOLDER, heavy-duty waterproof style features a snap-close cap and accepts the standard or "glow-when-blown" type ATC/ATO push-in style fuses.

HCP6833 aftermarket standard in-Line FUSE HOLDER, solid colored thermoplastic housing, 6" long, 12-gauge wire leads, 30A capacity, each:
$ 2.75

HCP7151 aftermarket standard type 30A ATC/ATO push-in FUSE, each:
$ 0.75

HCP7146 aftermarket "glow-when-blown" type 30A ATC/ATO push-in FUSE, each:
$ 1.25

 

I'm with Chacal on this one buddy, if it don't stink, don't stir it!
Get rid of the glass fuse for a modern blade holder.
Continue riding in happiness as before.
Rinse, Repeat.

 

OK, But....It does STINK. I got nothing for tension on the blades of my fuses, esp the ignition fuse. I have to pray to god, stand on one foot, and all that stuff to get 12v across the other side when i plug it in. All the posts on fuse replacement in here i thought were geared toward all the fuse holders, including the ATC. I see thta's not the case. What, then do you recommend?

P.S. Ive replaced the fuses with new, no corrosion there, its just a combination of a microscopic layer of oxide and a lack of tension down in the socket.

 

Hmm, evil electron carriers at work.

I would try to use a small pair of needle-nose pliers, etc. to "crimp" those fuse holders back to a condition in which they apply proper pinching grip to the fuses.

 

Hey, what if i get one of those fuseholders mentioned above, solder, heat shrink, and move the three fuses into the headlight bucket?

 

Well, that's an idea, but those fuseholders are kinda large, and there's just not much room in the headlight bucket for them, I'm afraid to say............

 

OK, thanks chacal. Will investigate this and see what i come up with. I really appreciate your advice. The thing is i haved tried to squeeze the clips in the past. But still seems that i have to get back on this little demon about once every few months.

I'm going to the parts house. Will let you know how it went.

trey

 

Well, i just put it all back together and all is good. I still need a fix for that ignition fuse, but we'll deal with that in the future. I picked up some inline ATC fuse holders, good heavy rubber boots on them, but you are right, not really enough room in the headlight bucket for them. If i really felt frisky, i would have cut out the existing rectangular area in the fuse block and put in the new holder and epoxy on the back to hold it in place. Maybe in the future, but for now i'll let it ride.