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How fast can you stop your bike?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Sbmaxim, May 13, 2008.

  1. Sbmaxim

    Sbmaxim Member

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    I drove my sold bike around yesterday, this is after getting use to a much bigger newer bike and was surprised at how much less stopping power I have. I can stop the newer bike on a dime, very fast, on my maxim it feels like I really need to mash hard on both pedal and front brake to stop, it's always been like that, I just thought it was normal. If it's not normal what should I check first? Fluid is good, and pads are good, I'm shipping it out Sat. and would like to fix it if it's actually broken
     
  2. martinfan30

    martinfan30 Member

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    I am new to my XJ750 (83). Compared to my 05 XR650L, the XJ stops poorly. I have flushed the fluid and it improved SLIGHTLY, so I wonder too....

    How much will stainless lines help?

    Sorry for hijack.
     
  3. greengoon

    greengoon Member

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    I have an 82 XJ 650. Runs it's as* off however the brakes suck!

    I am in the process of upgrading my front brakes to dual calipers / rotors from an 82 XJ750. I am replacing the rubber lines with stainless and installing a new master cylinder too. I am installing kevlar type pads up front and kevlar shoes in the rear. I am hoping for vast improvements in braking!
    Once I have it "altogether" I'll post my results.

    George
     
  4. Zookie400

    Zookie400 Active Member

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    does anyone make a hose so you can run a bar mounted master like almost every other bike on the planet? or do you just get hoses from another bike that go all the way to the calipers? i noticed my 82 750 had a very hard front brake that didnt do much, and everything seems to be working properly. i havent ridden on the road with it yet so i dont know how bad it is, but in the dirt its not very promising.
     
  5. crazyman2876

    crazyman2876 New Member

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    i have 82xj650 and it stops like shit to but can help it by taking some sand paper and scuff the roters they mit have glaze on them for the rear it can all so be the same thing
     
  6. pvtschultz

    pvtschultz Member

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    Guys, it's all about mechanical advantage. You have to pull "hard" because you (we) have a reletively large plunger diameter compared to the piston diameters. If the plunger were smaller, it would seem easier but you'd have to pull the lever further. Also, the addition of a second disc would greatly improve stopping given a set lever force since you now have double the number of friction material.
     
  7. Ass.Fault

    Ass.Fault Active Member

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    My vote goes for,....upgrading to Stainless Steel Brake Lines.
    Will improve the brake feel, and stopping.
    Those rubber lines are intended to be replaced on a ~ 4 year basis (I THINK)
    Someone is more than welcome to chime in on that though
     
  8. TheHound

    TheHound Active Member

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    The rear on my Seca works great!
    I use mostly front though and yes you have to pull hard to get decent braking.
    Will braided lines truely help braking or will they just improve the feel?
     
  9. pvtschultz

    pvtschultz Member

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    Mostly feel. Braided lines are "stiffer" than the old rubber ones and don't expand as much when you pressurize them. This way you get more brake for less lever pull. But you'll still need to apply the same amount of force.

    Also be sure the lubricate all external contact points between the lever and the piston/plunger as well as the lever pin. This will reduce friction increasing felt brake performance.
     
  10. PGDBUD

    PGDBUD Member

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    I added the Stainless Steel Brake Line and it feels like twice the braking power. Try it first before spending money on any other fix.
     
  11. greg_in_london

    greg_in_london Member

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    I recommend the braided hose too. I bought several metres and a few olives years ago and use it on all my bikes.
    I haven't checked on a brake tester, but it makes the brakes FEEL much better - so on a seat of the pants test I'd say there's an improvement.

    Rule of thumb is get a 1/2" bore master cylinder for one disc, 5/8" or 9/16" for two.
     
  12. 07spacker

    07spacker Member

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    ya i upgraded to the stainless steel and i can easily get my front tire to skid if i feel the need (i don't EVER) bottom line is it is the easiest cheapest best mod you can do for brake performance, hands down.
     
  13. Desinger_Mike

    Desinger_Mike Member

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    I put the SS braided lines on my X.
    I also replaced the pads and dressed the discs (since I had it apart)

    I'm sure I could lock it up if I needed....I'm not sure at what point I would be over the bars though.
    That reminds me, I should practice an E-stop with the thing.
     
  14. Zookie400

    Zookie400 Active Member

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    where do you get these SS lines?
     
  15. XJ4Keeps

    XJ4Keeps Member

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    Sounds to me like the only thing wrong with your brakes is the quarter-century-old technology.
    Arresting the forward progress of a 500 lb. bike by squeezing fluid through a flimsy rubber tube to activate a one-piston caliper that is desperately trying to grasp a single solid disc is bound to feel like a bad dream when compared to the relative ease of halting a modern-day stoppie monster.
    Hopefully, the next owner is fully aware of this fact. The best thing about newer bikes (and the worst thing about older ones) is braking efficiency.
     
  16. PainterD

    PainterD Active Member

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    I had the same problem with my 750 Seca. The cable that activates the master cylinder finally gave out and had to be replaced. I ended up making a small extended arm on the master cylinder to get more leverage from the cable and it worked. It takes less force to activate the front brakes now!
    I too agree with the old technology of the cable-activated master cylinder on the Seca. I will soon be converting the whole mess to a handlebar master cylinder, going to a T, which will have two lines coming off of it to the front rotors. This set up will come off of another bike I found in a salavge yard (in great shape) so it shouldn't take long to switch it over.
    I also found it a pain in the a$$ to add fluid to the master cylinder where it is mounted (between the tripple trees under the speedomter) and it's just about impossible to work on unless everything is removed around it.
    It just seemed like a lame idea to keep the master cylinder off the handlebars anyway. I like things where I can get at them. PD
     

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