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81 Maxim 550 wont start and turn signals wont work

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by jafrance, May 5, 2008.

  1. jafrance

    jafrance Member

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    Sorry in advance if this is a duplicate post....

    I just bought a 81 Maxim 550 as a starter bike. I was told up front that it would probably need a new battery and that the only thing on the bike not functioning was the turn signals. The turn signal switch feels really gummy so I suspect thats the problem, but after replacing the battery, the bike wont start. All other lights come on and function, but the starter button does nothing....no clicking (that I can hear) or anyting. Any ideas?

    Also, how much should I expect to pay to have the front fork seals replaced?
     
  2. simona

    simona Member

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    The starter buttons on these bikes are notorious for sticking and breaking and not connecting to the contacts properly. Did you make sure that your kill switch is not engaged??? !! Ive done that before and been embarassed. Also is your bike in Neutral??
    If this fails then see this post

    http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... river.html

    It tells you how to short the solenoid to get the starter turning over. If that produces no results then you probably have a starter issue and should take it out. If it does work then the likely culprit is the button in the handlebar cluster.
    On the fork seals question - are you mechanically minded? It takes a couple of hours to change the seals if you are able to get the forks apart, if you dont want to try then the seals are cheap but the labor at the shop will be the big nut. My guess would be 2-3 hours. Anyone else want to guess??
     
  3. jafrance

    jafrance Member

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    Im going to replace all 3 fuses in the fuse box under the seat today to see if that makes any differance. I am interested, however, in replacing the fuse block as another project...one that may hopefully solve some other electrical issues. How does one go about doing that? What parts would one look for? I have read some of the posts saying that it needs to be done, but none really outline how to do it or the supplies to do it with. First I will try the shorting of the solinoid.
    Secondly, does anyone know the best way to clean out the turn signal switch?
     
  4. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    The best way to clean the Turn Signal Switch is to split the Control by unfastening the Screws and getting inside with a Electronic Control Cleaning Spray.

    You can try spraying the Switch without splitting the Control, but the spray won't reach into where the real gunked-up stuff is.

    It won't hurt to try it. Grab a can of Electronic Contact Re-new and give it a douching-out. You could get lucky!
     
  5. jafrance

    jafrance Member

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    Ok, so the starter just "magically" started working today. I didnt replace or change anything. Either way, it works. Havent figured out why the signals arent working yet though....havent cleaned the switch yet either.

    Here is the MAJOR issue now. I went to ride it now that it starts and s I took the first turn, the engine reved up to 5k without me rolling the throttle AT ALL. Almost lost it. So I got it back to the house and was thinking that the cable was caught on something and pulling it when the bars were turned. Not the case. When I turn the bars or even lean the bike, the RPM's shoot up. The throttle body dosent move, the throttle cable dosent move....

    I have completely no idea what could be causing this to happen. Its unrideable untill I or someone figures it out. Thank you SO much in advance.
     
  6. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    When was the last time the Carbs were off and cleaned?

    You could have sticking linkage.
    You could have sticking Diaphragm Pistons

    You may need to have the Diaphragm Piston Bores cleaned of aluma-oxidation.
    They might be binding and not closing or opening as they should.

    I wouldn't rule-out something having to do with the linkage.
    A weak return spring or a tight Throttle Cable.

    Either way ... its Carb related and starting-off with cleaned carbs seems to be the best recommendation.
     
  7. jafrance

    jafrance Member

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    It was suggested by the guy at the parts store that it was probably carb related too....the carbs were supposed to have been rebuilt back in February. I have the service reciept that the guy I bought it from gave to me. Listed is "Check Dip"(?), "Cleaned-Time", "O Rings" and "Plunger Kit". So based on that, it seems that it clears the carbs? I have noticed that the cable is probably really tight as it takes almost no movement of the throttle itself to really rev the bike. How do you lengthen a cable like that?
     
  8. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Right up by the throttle where the cable exits the throttle grip is a Cable Length Adjustment.

    Loosen the little wheel and turn the Knurl adjuster while "Feeling" the Throttle Grip for slack.

    It's a personal adjustment. The book says around 2mm. But, you can add more or less depending on how the throttle responds and feels to you.
     
  9. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    After reviewing this Thread ... I think it would be a nice idea if you purchased a Factory Workshop Manual for your bike.

    In the Forward Section is the Owners Manual. That information, alone, will make it worth the investment!

    Yamaha has a web site that has all its literature for its Bikes available for purchase.
    Go to the site and get the Factory Workshop Manual.

    You get a free Owners Manual right in the front section!

    http://www.yamahapubs.com/html/year.jsp?type=MC
     
  10. jafrance

    jafrance Member

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    I have the Clymers manual for the bike. Is that what you are refering too?
     
  11. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    No.

    The actual YAMAHA Factory Workshop Manual.

    Owners Manual
    Service Manual
    Scheduled Maintenance
    Repair Sections for the whole Bike
    Everything specific to your bike and yours alone!

    Complete!
     
  12. jafrance

    jafrance Member

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    Wow. I wasnt expecting $80! That may have to wait.... The XJ550RH is the seca where the XJ550H is the Maxim, correct?
     
  13. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Jason,
    You are correct, the RH is a Seca and the H is a Maxim.
    If you contact our resident parts guru Chacal, I'll bet he has your book for close to half that. Hit the For Sale, Wanted Forum.
     
  14. jafrance

    jafrance Member

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    Thanks! I will post there tomorrow.
     
  15. jafrance

    jafrance Member

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    Just to clarify though, could it still be the throttle cable if it does it when I lean the bike without turning the bars, and if the cable and throttle body dont move or does that point right at a sticky carb?
     
  16. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    IF the cable does not move and the linkage isn't pulled ... I'm afraid its a Sticking Carb.

    I know nobody want to hear about taking the Carbs off and having them cleaned.
    But, If you have a bike that has Fuel Delivery issues and the Carbs havent been cleaned recently (within a season) ... that what you should do.

    You'll know that you are running on cleaned carbs and can begin doing fine tuning rather than troubleshooting.
     
  17. jafrance

    jafrance Member

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    I started playing with the Throttle Cable tonight and that actually seemed to do the trick. Thanks everyone for your help. I just hope cleaning the turnsignal switch turns out to be so painless.
     
  18. carriong

    carriong New Member

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    Im in need of help, I have a 82 maxim 550 and im guessing it may need a clutch, is there a way to test this?

    Here's whats happening, in high rpm's i seem to lose grip/traction its like if the motor is just revving, then it grips in a second or two.

    I did change the handlebars to a much shorter smaller one and didnt change the clutch cable, could it possibly be that the clutch isnt disengaging fully?

    Thanks in advance!!

    Gerry
     
  19. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    It IS possible.
    But, other factors need to be considered.

    If you KNOW the Cable isn't tight on the throwout arm ... then, you might just be needing a new set of Clutches.
    Clutches aren't forever. It might be your time.

    But, since you did a handlebar replacement and moved the Cable ... check the tension on the throwout arm and adjust it for a smidge of slack ... then try it!

    If you know that there's sufficient slack in that cable and she's still slipping ... It;s time for you to think new chutches!
     

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