Not revving over 1/4 throttle.

Max X and it usually craps out at 4 K in 1st, 3500 in 2nd, 3K in 3rd ... and yea that means past 3rd its useless.
Now it seems to be right about 1/4 throttle. It starts and idles OK ... I think the problem is that its got a bad diaphragm or one slide is stuck ... Has this happened to anyone, and any pointers ... I will get into them tommorow ... again ...
Of course it runs great till that happens and when it happens it stays shitty for a few extra seconds ... letting it off and 2-3 seconds its back to running OK under 1/4 throttle.
My bet is slide/diaphragm. Anyone have another thing I should check. TIA.
Cool.
Srinath.

 

The fuel line to the carbs were pinched ... by that clip that holds it. Of course I had opened the tops by the time I saw this, and they are all great.
Then I put it back together and it was a bit better but still a lot shy of ideal ... then I took them apart and found 1 pilot blocked as well as the air pressure equaliser on the right 1/2 ... Bingo ... double whammy ... may also be causing my sporadic fuel leaks into air box ...
Cool.
Srinath.

 

Well, you don't leave much for us to comment on, do you? :lol:

Congrats on finding the problems!

 

Well I did let 10 hours pass between the first and second posts ... :lol:
In any case I am a carb guy ... I have prolly done over 50 on GStwin.com, and over a dozen of my own bikes.
The ones I jet and send back on the GS ... People drop them in and they run like a charm ... literally with no more fiddling .. I have it down pretty good ... but the first time on a new bike always brings up interesting scenes.
Cool.
Srinath.

 

Sounds like we definietly need you at the carb clinic this weekend then!! :wink:

 

I am working on it ... but I am working on so many other things I still dunno ...
But I'll be there in spirit ... especially if the spirit is beer ... :lol: ...
In any case I will slap the thing back in tonight (if the damn thing ever stops raining) and let you know if anything is changeable for the better.
BTW the air intake - hoses between 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 on the top ... that seems to bridge the 1-2 and 3-4 carbs with a T fitting ... if blocked will get the carbs confused and have artificial vacuum and cause them to flood out and over flow ... make sure they not pinched or blocked.
In any case I like these carbs, simple as can be. And I'll work on comming over. Prolly be a good test ride for the new bike too ...
Cool.
Srinath.

 

OK carbs clean and back in. Pilots are stock ... didn't swap them out though now I think I should have, but plug pulls will tell ...
In any case, it runs great till 5K and then takes forever to rev past 5K and I couldn't make more than 7K. Seems to be rpm related and not connected to load. Could it be my home made air filter that has too much oil and is too thick ???
I also have a weird misfire at low rpm ... especially idle. Can anyone tell me if it can be because of not installing the red rubber boots on the bottom of the spark plug caps ...
BTW is there a way to change the wires ... Mine may be too far gone. Now y'all can answer ... It'd be 2-3 days before I open it up ...
Cool.
Srinath.

 

Its not the filter ... swapped it wil the air max and its the same.
Can I have a bunch of crap in the exhaust that contrubutes to this.
Very Very slow revving from 5-7K. After 7 forget it, never made it there.
Cool.
Srinath.

 

Plug chop at high revs. Take a plug spanner with you and hit kill at maximum revs. If plugs are rich or lean then look at main jet size. I'm guessing main is to big and running rich as a lean condition will pull forever till it melts a piston.

Slide assemblys are usually free of problems with the exception of diaphragms. Usually if you push them up with your finger you can her them moveing air. push each up in turn and they should all return at the same speed.

If it splutters between 5-7 then check float levels. may be starving.

This tube on top connecting carbs. Do you have a pic? If it's the place I think it is then they should be all capped, not connected, with the exception of th one going to the petcock.

 

The thing is rich yes I am sure ... power demand problems = rich. However with stock mains in it and heck everything is stock ... I doubt its really rich. Blocked exhaust somewhere now is front and center for list of culprits ...
Anyway, That vent tube, I dunno what carbs you're talking about. These are not vacuum caps. That on the Max X are on the mainfolds. I just swapped one of those out as well. These are hoses that will dump the fuel out of the floats if you were to drop your bike ... they also serve to put in atmospheric pressure on the non venturi part of the fuel in the float bowls. 1 and 2 have one connection, 3 and 4 have another. Top rear of the carbs.
The floats are set high if anything. no fuel starvation ... its struggling to get the flow ... someoen seems to have corked it ... and I trust the part where the PO said it ran like sheite till 10 mph and improved drastically after that clear to 100+ ... I just think the sitting has gotten something blocked in the exhaust, tonight I drill the sucker ... :twisted: ...
Slides move up and down just fine, plug pulls at speed ... I have quit doing those ... too dangerous. I know by feel now ...
Cool.
Srinath.

 

Now I'm on the same page re the vents. That is all they are and I don't think a blocked one will make much difference. My Seca 550 doesn't have any vent tubes at all and in my way of thinking if they are blocked from atmosphere then it will create a small vacuum in the float chamber as fuel is being sucked out. This vacuum will of course help suck fuel in past the float valve keeping the float chamber topped up. Of course that's just my thoughts on it.

As to blocked pipes. It is a possibility. If the baffles are removable the take them out and give it a run. If not then you could always remove the mufflers and give it a burst on straight headers. Will be noisy and will pop a bit on deaccleration but will help diagnose blocked mufflers.

 

The vents will have to be there ... the fuel as its being sucked out of the bowls into the emulsion tubes will create a vacuum in the bowl. That vacuum will counter act the vacuum produced by the venturi, of course one of those holes in the rim of the carb that the air box boots clamp on to has a passage to the float and air can get in that way if open vents arent there ...
Blocked pipes are my best guess. See after 2-3 runs it gets better ... indicating a blockage that when a forced pass or 3 is made improves a bit, only to get bad again when its let to sit and settle again. Comming to think of it ... the air filter isn't peachy either ... its not bad but not great ... heck, its so bad that I am sure air filter wont make any diff. Drill holes it is ... or maybe I'll take out the muffler and invert it and tap it and see what crap falls out ... I have seen a huge ass hornets nest in the airbox area on this shadow I had ... lets see if this one can top that ... I'd say a dead animal will top it for sure ... a live one will take the cake ... :lol:
Cool.
Srinath.

 

Choke sticking?

 

Oh well ... choke sticking can do this ??? of course it can ... however I do see the chokes all shutting all the way ... of course internal o rings etc can let it leak like a sieve ... anyway ... Worth checking ... has it happened to you on an X though.
Anyway after choke my floats are the next stop. The pipes turned out to be clean.
Cool.
Srinath.

 

As per this I am lean ...

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/carbadjust.htm

You can check the main jet by quickly closing the throttle from wide open to 7/8 position when the engine's RPM is greater than 4500. If the engine accelerates slightly, the main jet is to lean. A larger main jet is needed. If the engine hesitates or misses slightly, the main jet is to rich. A smaller main jet is needed. If the engine just slows a slight amount, the jetting is very close to correct.

Mine does that same exact thing. Of course the damn thing takes forever to get over 5K ... so no idea if its rich on the floats (too high) and lean on the mains ...
Cool.
Srinath.

 

The very next paragraph is the opposite ...

Another test is to accelerate through the gears at full throttle. If the engine backfires through the carburetor, misses, cuts out or quits running, the main jet is lean. Increase the size of the main jet. If the engine acceleration seems sluggish, does not react to the throttle or sounds flat, the main jet is rich. Decrease the size of the main jet.

Its plenty sluggish and reacts very slowly ... OK I'll increase the mains first ... then see if I shouldn't have decreased ... Or ... high floats small mains ... or just high floats ...
Cool.
Srinath.

 

OK fixed the sucker ...
I must have not assembled one of the springs on the top slides too well ... I took it off and put it back on when still on the bike ... I know bad habit ... but hey I have split 100's of carbs and I was in a hurry and it was getting dark ... but I had my foreheadlight on so it wasn't totally dark ... but even so ... I put it back on and left them 4 threads loose and then tapped them up and down a few times ... down by finger, up by spring, then slapped them down and held them there and tightened ...
Or more than likely ... one of the emulsion tubes must have been partially gummed up ... I didn't feel like chasing it with a wire ... since the damn needle was still in there ...
I do such sloppy work for myself ... others never have sheite go wrong ... Its almost like I want it to run like sheite so I know why its doing it ...
Anyway ... running like a bear from a forest fire now ...
Cool.
Srinath.

 

Send me address to carb clinic please.
Thanks.
Srinath.