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Question from a new owner (maybe transmission?)

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by seansbw, Jul 8, 2008.

  1. seansbw

    seansbw New Member

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    So after a couple weeks of cleaning and shining my 1981 Maxim 550, I've have achieved living status in that it will turn on and keep idling. The main problem I now have is that when I put it into gear with the clutch in/out, it will completely die (center/side stands either up or down) and the rear wheel locks up. In gear, the rear wheel seems to be locked up but only when it's in gear. After much research on this site and any other tidbits I could get off the web, it seems that it could be any number of things. But the two main things I see would be bent tranny parts (or debris in there) or maybe a bad relay. Can anyone provide anything else I could test, or does this seem an appropriate diagnosis? I'm really hoping to not have to get into the transmission. Thanks ahead of time for the assistance and if this sounds exactly like something else, please let me know. I thought I was so close!
     
  2. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    Sounds like the side stand safety relay. See if you can locate it and test it out as per the service manual. You could bypass it for a test but absolutely do not leave it that way. You could forget its in gear and accidentaly start it up. It could take off ruin your nice bike not to mention what damage it could cause to whatever it would run into.

    The transmission would seem locked up in gear, it takes alot to turn the motor over by the rear tire. You could try 2nd or 3d and push it and pop the clutch and see if it turns. If you drove it last and it was workning fine its hard to beleive it went out while sitting. Let us know.
     
  3. BlueMaxim

    BlueMaxim Active Member

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    In gear the rear wheel would have to turn the engine to rotate. So it may not be locked up. Easy way to check is to put the bike in gear leave the clutch out and hit the starter all with the bike on the center stand. Use forth or fifth gear to make it easier on the starter motor.
    The kick stand or clutch switch could be bad and causing the engine to die when kicked into gear. The side stand switch has a plunger that can break and catch inside it's rubber cover. Push the plunger in and the bike will run if that is broken. On the 750 you can disconnect the kickstand switch to check if it is good but I don't know about the 550.
     
  4. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    You can easily bypass the sidestand switch (but don't leave it) by unplugging it where it plugs in behind the LH (sprocket) cover and simply plugging the two leads that it plugs into together. Or it could be the relay (also bypass-able as a test only.) Doubt the tranny locked up...
     
  5. seansbw

    seansbw New Member

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    Thanks for the info, I'll let you all know how it goes!
     
  6. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    I'm not too far from you Seansbw if you run into trouble.
     
  7. seansbw

    seansbw New Member

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    How funny! I'm always taking two steps forward on this bike and then taking one step back. Well, after it was working for two straight days, I'm now blowing the main fuse when I turn the key to the on switch. When I either find the short or replace the entire wire harness and the lights, I'll let you know how testing the safety relay goes. Is there any chance that all these issues are related? Thanks for the offer Robert, I'll let you know if I get stuck again.
     
  8. seansbw

    seansbw New Member

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    It's alive!!! Electronics are still a bit messy but we actually got it down the street. I guess the main issue was the clutch cable was a bit loose. Still making adjustments on the clutch to get it just right and still occasionally blowing fuses but I'm not sure they were set up right. The 20A fuse was in to the Ignition coils and the main fuse was a 10A. I've been looking in the manual but didn't see the recommended fuses. Should the main fuse be 20A for this bike? Thanks again guys, it's a blast to ride this bike.
     
  9. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    You should see a 20A for the MAIN and 10A for the IGN. Was the ignition "popped" with a screw driver by chance? I've seen the switch get messed up that way. Another way I see fuses blow repeatedly is when someone hacked the harness and used electrical tape to join the wires. Tape gets warm, wires slip, presto! Instant short. I'd be happy to pop by if you need a hand.
     
  10. seansbw

    seansbw New Member

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    You mean jumped by the screwdriver on the starter solenoid?
     
  11. seansbw

    seansbw New Member

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    Another question, on using the light tester. Basically I connect the meter across the fuse block for the main fuse, turn the key on and the light comes on. This doesn't happen on any of the other fuses. Is this because that's where there is current or that is where the short is? This may be a dumb question, but I'm not too familiar with electrical testing. Thanks again.
     

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