Torque Values

Hello im new here and im looking for the torque settings for the XJ650 1981 4KO. I know i should have the CD but i never owned a Yamaha and jut had kwnoledge of it now.
i took apart the top end and one thing i noticed is that i dont see any marks on the camshafts is it normal?
Can someone help me?
Thanks

 

Don't have the torque settings with me but someone here will post them so just be patient. The camshafts do have marks. On the left side of the camshaft on the inner journal camshaft cap is an arrow. This should correspond to a dot on the camshaft when it is rotated to TDC. You may have to wipe the oil off the collar that is adjacent to the camshaft cap to see the dot. There will be one on each camshaft.

 

Thanks. I never did this to a bike im used to cars and usually in a car this marks are in the sprockets.

 

What do you think? Should we change the head bolts or not when doing this type of work in a bike?

 

I posted them here:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... orque.html

 

No need to replace the head bolts unless there is obvious signs of damage or heavy corrosion. I've replaced heads a few times with no problems. Just be sure to get those copper washers under the right studs or oil leaks you will have!!! I'll try to post your torque settings in a bit. Hold on...

 

Are they the same for the 650

 

in this case i have to change the head bolts, they are corroded and lost that plastic cover.

 

Im sorry for asking but just 2kg in the head bolts!?
I have the 650RJ and the 650G service manual and it says 3.2Kg.
Is 2Kg ok?
Im finding this values strange not because they are wrong or not but because im used to cars and in a car it can be 6.5Kg in the head bolts.

 

Head nuts (lightly oiled, by specification) should be tightend to 3.2 Kg/ 23.1 Ft/lb as your manual suggests. I would not go with less since your probably reusing the nuts (which is ok so long as they are not cracked, stripped or heavily corroded). I'm still needing to post your spec table. I'm working on it but the baby woke and it was lunch time. I'll try to post A.S.A.P.

 

** Cylinder head cap nuts (oil lightly)... 3.5 Kgf/m or 23.1 ft/lbs.

I think you were looking at the wrong line.

These specs are for both 750 & 650 eninges.

 

I see what you are looking at!

That number is for the upside down mounting bolts that go from the head through the cylinder block.

 

Ok, I shot a few pictures, God willing they are viewable. If not PM me and I'll send you the JPG files. Crud, they are too big to post (common problem for me). Send me your email address and I'll post you the spec charts and pictures.

 

You are right i was looking at the cylinder head/block 8mm nuts. it made sense but the torque was to small.
Thanks

 

It is also good to know that the outer right side head bolts have copper crush washers that MUST be placed back on these studs. This is the pressurised oil galley from the oil pump. Sorry I didn't get back to you but I have been in the air all day. Not many cable modem connections at flight level 350. Thanks to Robert and Kyroclasm you were well taken care of!

 

First let me say thanks for all the help.
Second i just have one more thing to ask. Can you give me the specs on the piston grooves and piston rings or if you can send me a pic of the engine , clutch and transmission specs of the manual.

 

Thanks Robert for those pics. I noticed that you sent me two pics of the torque sequences, i already changed a few head gasteks and never saw that sequence,were you go from the outside to the inside its a bit ode. All the mecanics that i worked and all the manuals ive read say to torque it from the inside out and in two or three moves.

 

The torque sequence from the outside in is for removal of the head. The torque sequence for installation is from the inside out.

 

Ok. Didnt pay attention to the name on the pic.
Ups. :-(

 

Shot the pictures out yesterday, 7 of them. Let's see if they made it. Drop us a line when you recieve them Magolo.

 

Hello.
Ive receive those first seven pics.
Did you send me some more?

 

Today I took apart the spring valves and started to measure them. It’s giving me 39.5mm (outer), in all the springs. Is it normal?
I think I saw somewhere 42.5mm.

 

Outer springs free length are 39.5 mm ( 1.555 in )

Inner springs free length are 35.9 mm ( 1.413 in )

I don't see any reference to 42.5 mm

 

With what do you all think is best to remove carbon build-up when’d doing a engine overhauling? Don’t mind the paint I don’t have any
And since im asking what about the carbs?

 

I use a selection of wire wheels and a drill or Dremel tool. Unfortunately, this is one of those painstaking tasks that should be done very carefully since any ridges you might cut with a wire wheel could become a hot spot and lead to pre-ignition problems later on. I also use a small screwdriver with a sharp blade, a razor blade and a mechanics scribe. Painting would be a good idea if you have the engine out, it will help ward off corrosion on the exposed metal. Carbs should be disassembled and very throughly cleaned. Have fun!

 

The hard way you mean!!!
i can see that inside the intake and exhaust is also painted. Should we paint this?

 

Years back we used to soak pistons in a bucket of Tide washing detergent and water, let soak overnite and you'll be amazed how good it works.

 

I`ve used a chemical that is used to degrease engines and stuff like that. The problem is that dosen`t do much for carbon residues and darkens the metal.
I will trie the Tide thing on the pintons.

 

I'm not one to argue with what works. I've also heard of using Dawn dishwashing liquid for grease. Never tried it either but food for thought. I would not worry about paint in the intakes, remember you want a slightly rough finish to help turbulate the air for the best atomization of the fuel mixture. Bom tarde.

 

Boa Tarde.
are you learning portuguese. lol

 

Meu spousa e Brasilara. I'm just learning a few words yet, but with my felia here now, I'm picking up lots of words.

 

Ok amigo, I posted the spec sheets to you. Please let us know if you got them. Regards, Robert.

 

Robert amigo yes I did get those pics. Many thanks.

 

I've tried the Tide whashing thing and you can't guess what happen. The pistons are shinning. Didn't remove all the carbon but they are shinning. I think i will soak the entire engine on Tide. LOL

 

This sounds like a positive direction. Don't forget to rinse with Downey or you'll suffer with static cling!!!

 

You lost me.
Downey?
Static cling?

 

Downey is a liquid rinse agent used here in the States to rinse through your laundry. One of the properties of this rinse is the reduction of static on the clothes. I posted my comment in jest, I failed to remember we're an international community and that not all of my humor will be understood. Mise descupa Tio. Goodness I'd love to be there Magolo, we'd fix your bike up quickly.

 

It's all done now. I just need the parts for it and and it will be up and running soon.
I will post some pics of the work.