PVC air Filter

What measurements do you need to make a air filter housing with PVC im kinda dumb when it comes to this kinda craziness.

 

I guess you'd need to know the diameter of the carb intakes and distance between each carbs... then run the 4 pipes into a common manifold with a single filter... but why not just run pod air filters?

 

there are 2 ways of making pvc intakes that i have seen on this board

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=11610.html

that one is for individual pods that you can make cheaply

Then there is another one that links all 4 carbs together and uses one filter.... i try searching for it but i cant seem to find it. I know it was in a thread about making brass fuel lines. Hopefully somebody can dig it up

EDIT: found it http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... iumph.html

 

which is cheaper the pods or the PVC?

 

If you value your time as money ... neither are going to be cheaper.
Once you abandon the Stock Airbox for Pods; you need to do some experimental tuning with re-jetting your Carbs.

There's no need to do that if you simply clean and tune the Carbs you have and run them off the Stock airbox.

 

AMEN!

 

but getting rid of that big bulky hunk of plastic sure does look cool

 

THAT ... is THE number one thing ... I, for the life of me ... cannot get myself to understand.

Why, in blazes, do the "Pod Boy's" place Cosmetics (that's it -- essentially; because they look so cool) over Performance?
Why?
I don't get it.
You can't sell that to me ... because it just don't make sense.

Chop-out the Airbox and put-on Pod Filters only to have the Bike immediately run bad and stay running no matter what you try to do to rectify the situation!

Now a days, when somebody asks me what to do to make their Bike run better, again ... after installing Pods to look cool ... I just tell them to go find an airbox and boots ... bring the bike over and I'll stick the airbox back-in and tune-up the bike right.

Then, they ask me "How much"?

Two bills if the airbox is installed and bolted-up right.
Five bills if I have to do it.

 

i was just being a smart a$$ about it. But i see where you are coming from. On all the bikes i have had or worked on there have been pods put on the stock motor and it really didnt make it run all that differently. On my last KZ i had pods, open pipes, and heat wrap on the pipes..... now that was something that needed to be re-jetted, BUT i never did it. It was hard as hell to get going but as soon as it got warmed up it ran fine, surprisingly the spark plugs always came out a nice shade of tan also. So anyway... rick i know you know more about all of this than me but can you share a horror story or something about pods wrecking a bike? I am not trying to start a war i just have never seen it happen

 

Remember, though, not everyone has problems when they switch to pods... You could get some cheap ones and try em out if you really wanted to.

Personaly I run the stock airbox with a UNI filter. But you shouldn't necesarily be afraid to try out the pods...

 

My bike doesnt start for crap! I can not jet my bike for the life of me ive tried but i think its running to rich and floods easy.

 

where can I get these pods?

 

Horror stories?
Fortunately, in here, we haven't had one. (Yet!)

But, I saw a case where a guy took a perfectly good 650 Maxim, added Pods and a 4 into 1 Exhaust System and didn't do anything about the Lean condition that those components imposed.

Within a week the Bike wouldn't start after he came back home and parked it.
It would crank but acted like the Plugs were out.
Compression check revealed the problems. Overheating ruined his Pistons.
The skirts on the Pistons were all messed up.

He was closer to throwing a Rod ... all because he didn't know enough to rejet his Carbs after making the Mods ... or, was too cheap to do so.

The Lean Mixture you get with Pods and no back pressure is hot enough to cause the Aluminum to melt.
You can overheat so bad the engine will seize.
Easily burn a hole right straight through the top of a Piston.
Run so lean that the Power Stroke burns the Oil sheen on the Cylinder walls for Fuel, causing the Cylinders to become scored from no lube happening.
To mention a few.

 

WOW. That is a horror story.

I gotta confess, this morning when I was putting the carb rack back on (for the first time after cleaning) I couldn't get the hang of installing the boots from the box to the carbs and the thought of pods crossed my mind. No problem getting the carbs onto the intake boots, but had a fit getting the box boots on. Obviously, I don't know the secret. What sequence do you use when putting the carbs/boots on.

 

I wipe a smear of waterproof grease in the fitting channel of each Boot to allow it to rotate in the cut-out of the airbox more easily.

Then I do the Middle two.
You have to pull the cover and air filter to reach inside the airbox.
(You can soften the Boots by wrapping them in a moist towel and microwaving them for 40-seconds - too!)

Do 2.
Rotate it until the line-up tab gets centered between the two pips on the airbox.
Then -3
Clamp them.

Four.
Clamp it.

Finally -- 1.

I have a special tool that I made out of a CB Antenna that I use to place the Boot around the Carb.
Its a "Shoehorn" that doesn't have any points or sharp edges to hurt the Boot when I slip it between the lip of the boot and the Horn of the Carb.

10 Inches long
Short right angle at the end -- flattened and sanded smooth
A loop at the other end to know what angle the shoehorn is taking.

 

The shoe horn is a great idea Rick - thanks. I have had my carbs off a couple of times and getting ready to do the complete rebuild. Getting the intake boots seated has always been the toughest part.

 

The tool is easy to make.
Take a section of CB Antenna.
Heat, flatten, bend 90 Degrees at the end 1/4".

Sand the "Spoon" area smooth so it will not pierce or cut the Air Boot.

Use it to push and pull and slip-over the end of the Airbox Boot while reinstalling the Boots after reinstalling Carbs.

 

Thanks Rick. That tool looks like it would help a lot. Will be sure to make one up.

Almost ready to try to start this thing. Just down to installing the inline fuel filter, putting the tank on and hitting the button to see what I got.

 

It's just a Rubick's Cube all messed-up when you start.

Once you master the moves to solve the thing ... it's not a puzzle any more!

 

is there anything on here about re jetting with pictures my bike runs fine when started but it wont start first thing in the morning but once its warm it runs fine.

 

these bikes are cold blooded... if they are cold they usually wont start on the first try