1982 XJ550 Maxim rebuild

I'm in the midst of a rebuild and will post some pics and information on what's been done and going to be done. The bike has 18k miles on it and it is in good shape overall. I was getting around 180psi on compression tests but had to pull the head because #1 exhaust cam cap was galled with deep grooves. The cam looked OK but to do it right I decided to replace it all with better bearing surfaces. Another used head is on the way and I should have valve work done soon. A set of 1000mi cams came in and are getting micro-peening at WPC. Hope to have the frame painted, engine cleaned/buffed and re-installed this month.

 

The image linking is not allowed? I keep getting a spam error.

 

Engine is out and used head has been cleaned up from most of the carbon. 2 cyls have had valves lapped going to finish that tonight. Waiting on stem seals and cams to come back from WPC so I can finish the head rebuild. The rear swing arm bolt was seized and I managed to mushroom the bolt end so a replacement is on the way. Got the rear wheel sanded down and ready for some paint. Bearings are in good shape, cleaned and repacked the hub ball bearing and spacer. Swing arm and valve cover paint coming up.

 

Looking good so far!

 

Head and valve work is waiting on stem seals now. Hammer and gloss initial paint on the valve cover. A few steps to go before it's finished. The bossed sides will be aluminum. I've started on the tank and managed to blow a hole through the biggest dent with my cheap mig. Needless to say I'll be moving back to TIG to fix the tank and getting a stud gun to pop the dents.

 

Well I can't seem to get a hole closed the tank with the TIG so I have to dump it. Not wasting my time on it right now.

 

Here is the "new" cam pair. Should have them back in a few days. I will try to do a comparison image of the journals post-treating.



New Viton valve stem seals are in. Don't forget to put the spring seats in before the seals. All of the valves and buckets are back in. Waiting on the cams and plastigauge to finish the head work.

 

Tape over the hole, and re-line the tank with an epoxy liner (like Caswell's). You can then finish it as if the hole was never there.

 

I am going to weld it over eventually and seal it. I just have too much else to focus on with the bike in 1000 pieces.

 

As you can see, that small hole ended up eroding into a larger and larger hole. I got quite a few dents out with the stud gun and then *boom*, big hole. I tried to weld a border to stop it but there's just so much rust on the inside that it eventually blows a hole as I'm tracing. I'm using 1/16" rod and tungsten with no more than 80A max and it still blows through sometimes at 40A. I'll eventually get it closed up and ground back to form but it's going to take a lot of patience, rod and time that I don't have right now. The tank might be a replacement anyway. I'm not sure as there is no part number stamped on the bottom anywhere.

 

Took off a bunch more accessories so the frame is almost ready. The plan is to replace the harness since someone chopped it up. I'm going to get a replacement headstock sticker since all of the stamps match on the bike. I think for the time savings and durability I will get the local powder coater to handle the frame, stands and swing arm. I need to pull the head apart anyway and check all of the bearings. I'll eventually get around to the forks and front wheel assembly but I want to get the engine done and rear wheel done first.

 

With that much rust causing you to blow through it I think it should be lined anyway.
It would suck to do all that work and end up with new pinholes bubling the paint.

 

Whatever tank I go with will get POR-15 treating inside before I do any outside painting. I'm going to be spraying 3-layer metallic on the tank and side panels myself with a HVLP gun. We'll see how it turns out since I've always used rattle can enamel.

 

Half the case is cleaned, including the nasty drive sprocket area. The alternator cap has been wire wheeled to bare aluminum and buffed with green and blue compound.



The valve cover is done. Clear needs to cure. Hammer and gloss came out great.

 

Anyone recognize this spring? The oil sump fairy left it in the pan for me. Do not see it on the crankcase or strainer parts view.

 

I'm not as familiar with the 550 as I am the 650/750, but that looks like the spring from the camchain tensioner.
What ever it turns out to be, it does not belong where you found it

 

Winner winner chicken dinner! You are right, I remember now briefly seeing a spring drop put of sight when I pulled the guide up. The carbs just ruined my night, will post pics in a bit.

 

All stripped down and ready for some sanding. Gonna cost over $500 for the frame to blast and powdercoat, so doing it myself.

 

Someone broke off the main tube on #4. Plus, there are 2 missing idle jets. The carb kits won't be used at this point.

 

Oh joy, that one's been water logged. Time for a new carb set. I need to use this one for parts at this point.

 

A little rust here and there, but the frame is in good shape. The bearings in the head are shot, gotta figure out what I'm gonna do.

 

From what I see the only one that won't be able to be cleaned up and used is the one with the broken idle jet tube.
My spare set was far worse looking inside than those are, and I've had the bike running with them after cleaning and rebuilding them.

Chacal stocks headstock bearing sets, both the original ball bearings and roller bearing upgrades.

 

I have Berrymans gallon dip and an ultrasonic hot bath, just concerned with needle seat being pitted. I have a 4-carb rebuild kit with only the main jet. Bores and slide setups are fine. Finding one carb body for this is gonna be nearly impossible.

Thanks, I will get up with chacal on bearings.

 

Lots of people on here. Most have parts stashes, and have supplied single carb bodies before.

 

It's the carb hot tub. First time using SuperClean and will be coming out, too much foam and it leaves oily foam stuck to the alum. Back to my trusty Simple Green Aircraft cleaner. Not cheap but man does it work.





Break out the brushes and Berryman Chem-Dip. Did I mention how much I dislike carbs? Give me a Motec and a gas engine with injectors and I am happy. I mean I have no prob working on them I just prefer more control. Hmm.. wonder if I could design an injection kit for this series..

 

Simple Green is not friendly to aluminum. Take care on how long you leave the carb bodies in, or they will become permanantly discolored.

 

This is not the stuff you buy at Autozone. It is made specifically to deoxidize and degrease alum and brass on aircraft parts. I use it on all metals and plastics with no issues. You always have to time the soaks to avoid deplating of cheap parts, though.


Simple Green 13405 Extreme Aircraft and Precision Cleaner, 5 Gallon Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PARWXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AjGHCb9PKAE5C

 

Ahhh, the good stuff, not the original (which is good for its own reasons).

I find the claim that is contains no solvents to be hilarious. Water is a solvent. So is the Glycol Ether. If there were no solvents in it the product wouldn't work very well. Marketing is a funny thing sometimes.

 

Agreed. The stuff will pickle your skin if you leave it on it. I know from experience. The marketing looks to be targeted to large dipping tanks where VOCs are a real problem when you're cleaning a landing gear tube or whole engine case for rebuild. That said, it works like a champ in the ultrasonic tank on carbs. 15 minutes in there(depending on soil, may need a scrub) and then 30 minutes in the chem-dip and it's new again.

 

it would be better to remove the throttle shaft and butterflies before dipping berrymans is going to eat the throttle shaft seals

 

+1 assume that the throttle shaft seals are no longer seals.

 

I love supper clean as well, but it more than cleans them carbs, looks like it eats them a bit. I am sure they will be okay but I also think that if not removed and then hit with some type of oil, grease or something to almost counter what the supper clean is doing. If you used super clean on them with the throttle shafts still in there, those seals are done. I hope you find someone that has a spare carb body for you.

 

Well I am not too concerned with the shaft seals. I have had to weld tits onto screws all over this carb setup due to seizing. Even torch and squirrel pee did not work. I will be pulling the butterflies out anyway and rebuilding the carbs completely. The vacuum slides and diaprams are still good. floats are OK and the carb kits came with new needle and seat pairs. Cams incoming tomorrow, so carbs going on the side burner until head is done. I still need #4 carb body, 2 drain screws, rack screws and a pilot jet at this point.

 

www.xj4ever.com carries those parts

 

I got some video of making some tiny screw snow men, a few hard 'cracks' on the bowl drain screws and a couple rack screws that someone stripped. If I didn't have a TIG I'd be drilling those out and then buying new carbs because I suck at that. I'll try to get some video of the cam work tonight and put it all together.

 

Were you using a JIS screwdriver?

 

Nope. I have a set of JIS drivers on order for reassembly, so doing what I can for now. I'm not going to mess around with screws that are half rounded out. The TIG takes 30 seconds and then I can rip them out with pliers. These were stripped before I got them. The impact driver worked on a few really corroded ones after some heat. The heads were toast after that. The rest were a lost cause.

 

Makes sense. It's a shame that so few people bother to use the toolkits that came with the bikes (or even bothered to keep them, as mine was missing). They weren't the greatest, but at least the screwdriver fit correctly.

 

Yeah this bike is missing the kit. I will probably put a repair kit together after it is all done. Video is processing from tonight. Will post it shortly.

 

WPC treatment


Untreated

The journal and lobe surfaces feel like a teflon pan versus glass on the untreated. There is no coating, though. The cam moves easily under the caps even with the bearing surfaces untreated. Ideally you would treat both and the oil layer strength would be increased greatly versus polishing.

 

Nice. I had that done to a piston several years ago. It slid down the cylinder bore so easily.

 

Frame has been treated and had first coat of poly frame spray on. I will flip it over in 24 hours and coat everthing again. The carbs are fully disassembled and been coated black. Still need carb 4 body and a bunch of carb parts to finish the carbs. The clutch pack looks original and still has wear life so gonna clean and reinstall. Gearing looks new and no signs of case cracks so far.

 

The e-clip that holds the oil pump gear is no longer viable, ordering a new one. It just spread open and gave up. Torch and quench turned it into rice paper which popped in halves across the garage. Good news, no more sludge in the case.

 

Primary drive gear bearing is a 6205. Looks fine, no play.

 

3 carb bodys, rails and heat shield are painted. As soon as I can find another carb body I will rebuild #4 and rebuild the pack.






Both tabs on both side bars are split. I am debating buying replacements since the chrome is peeling and they are severly pitted.