81 Maxim550 NO Headlight - Testing Tips pls.

1981 Maxim 550 Cruiser model.

Went riding yesterday eve. & NO HEADLIGHT.

No burned wires; bike starts and runs normal. New battery is 100%
A New H4 bulb didn't produce any new illumination. Oops ...

Horn, Brake lights, turn signals and rear license light all work normally.

NEXT STEPs: WHAT to TEST FOR?
So I guess this leaves a possible bad Headlight Relay.
or a Bad Handlebar / Headlight Switch.

Where's the Headlight Relay located on this model?
How does one test it?

What else could cause the headlight to cease functioning?

RJ

 

I had the same problem on my XJ1100, there is a interlock with the starter button. It turns off the headlight while starting. The spring in the switch had broken. I don't know if your 550 has the same wiring but its worth looking on the wiring diagram.

 

The headlight relay also runs directly off the alternator wires -- check the stator & rotor connectors and make sure they're clean and tight -- I had to troubleshoot mine once because I forgot to plug the wires back together.

 

Did the "HEADLIGHT" fuse holder suddenly break? Or have you retrofitted already?

 

I'm going through the same issue right now, which has turned into a project bike because of it. I'd start with the fuse block, and then work towards the back of the bike. Mine has a cracked wire somewhere between the fuse block and the battery... which is a lot of tight spaces to probe

 

Silly question, but did you check the fuse? There is one just for the headlight ...

 

HL FUSE is good....

Altus -
Several months back I found a stray White wire just behind the battery & fuse boxes that had/has No Female end. However the bike has had an operating headlight (and has been charging the battery) and running perfectly since.

Even after assiduous searching and testing the white wire's source point hasn't been discovered yet. I suspect it may be an ALT wire since it seems to proceed up from under the left rear engine case.

BigFitz- HEADLIGHT Fuse is good.
FUSE Holders are good.

Which leaves the Headlight Relay & assorted switches as test candidates.
Can a bad Ignition Switch also be a headlight loss candidate?

Where can the HL Relay be found?

Does anyone sell NEW Head Light Relays?

 

Okay, stupidly seeming question, but when you say the fuse is good, did you take the fuse out and look at it or just look at the fuse in place and saw the metal was intact?

Reason I ask is that when mine did that same thing, the fuse looked good until I pulled it out. It had a hole blown out one end.

 

NursePadawan -
Dat's a berry good question. Looked at it apart from the Holder. It seems ok ... but.
Ran outta testing time today.

Tomorrow: Re-checking the HL fuse's continuity is the first thing on da To Do List. You're right to suspect them 'cause in Bldg. Maint. we would do a thorough test and found the Fuses were often bad even though they appeared intact.

RJ

 

I'm with Padawan on this one.
Had the same issue.
My fuse looked fine but it was bad.
Wish I had those hours back.

 

TD- PM me with your actual email address and I'll send you a set of component location diagrams for your bike, along with a schematic and the headlight circuit troubleshooting procedure, all from the factory book.

Headlight relay is in between the horizontal frame tubes just ahead of the rear tank hold-down and just behind where the backbone tube joins. Just about in the center of the bike. It should have a blue wire w/black stripe, a black wire, a white wire and a red wire w/yellow stripe (according to factory schematic.) White wire leads to DIODE PACK (in headlamp shell) R/Y wire directly to fusebox; Black is ground and ties into the harness with all the other ground wires, Blue/black feeds the lights.

The headlight itself: Black is ground, Yellow and green go back to the dimmer switch.

You said "new H4." Did this lamp EVER work in your bike? Can you throw the old one back on as a test?

 

BF - Haven't been able to re-test the old HL yet. Full testing of components after work today. pm sent thanks.

 

FOUND IT - BAD 10A HL FUSE went out gradually ... used the tone continuity test with an old Radio Shack Analog Voltage Tester and got the "beeeep" when both probes were applied to fuse ends = NO CURRENT PATH.

Score - Now the instrument lights work!

Yet there was NO visible damage whatsoever / NO break in the metal strip; and NO breaks visible in either end cap. It had died an honorable death from just plain old age. R.I.P.

Keeping the old HL for a spare and carrying plenty of 10A fuses from now on.

 

The simplest answer ... <grin>

Have you upgraded to the blade fusebox?

 

Alas I have not done so yet.
Where may one find such a new fuse box?

 

Chacal ...

HCP378BC Replacement FUSEBOX, 6-circuit design, comes with a full set of standard style ATC push-in style fuses (4 x 10A, and 2 x 20A), for all XJ550, all XJ650, 1983 XJ750 Maxim and XJ750 Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 models.
$ 13.00

$16 if you want the glow-when-dead fuses.

HCP382 Replacement 6-circuit fusebox BOTTOM GASKET:
$ 3.50 (to make it more water tight)

 

Chacal, the resident parts guru, has em. I just placed an order for one myself.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... rt=15.html

look for the fusebox for your bike

 

Like I said, same thing happened to me no visible signs, yet it was bad.