82 750 max brake calipers

I'm rebuilding the brake system on my 82 750 max and I have a few questions. According to Chacal there is no rebuild kit available for this particular set of calipers, has anyone found anything that works, or maybe a bolt on after martket/salvage set with rebuild kits available?

How important is the C shaped shim? Mine are not present, but I do have two backer plates from the previous set of pads.
On the left caliper the dust boots are shot. When I removed the sliding portion of the caliper I found heavy corrosion on one of the smaller pistons (?name) The one you remove with an allen key. On closer inspection I found quite a bit of pitting and scoring inside the bore. I feel like the pitting is bad enough that I am now in the market for a new left caliper. (please correct me if I'm wrong)

I spent several hours drilling out my pad retaining bolt and finding a proper tap for the pitch. I want to up grade to SS lines and I'm also rebuilding the Master Cylinder. I'm prepared to spend a bit money, I 'm just a little concerned that I can't purchase the correct dust and fluid seals for these calipers. At some point I'll need a different system, should that point be now?

 

Check this out ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-YAM ... ccessories

 

the bid is in. I looked, and some how I missed that one.

 

I did mine not too long ago; if memory serves I wasn't able to get the caliper piston seals separately, but I could get them if I ordered the pistons. As for the little dust booties and brake pads, those were available when I placed my order.

Here are some of the parts I ordered:

HCP1596 - MC Rebuild Kit
HCP3296 - Large Slider Pin Boot (ordered 2)
HCP3297 - Small Slider Pin Boot (ordered 2)
HCP1707SET2 - Brake pad sets
HCP4231SET12 - Brake Line Crush Washers
HCP5908 - MityVac Brake Bleeder Set
HCP1936SET2 - HCP1936 x 2 brake caliper pistons/seals
HCP2877BLKST - MC brake line assy. Blk s/s
HCP2878BLKST - RH brake line assy. Blk s/s
HCP2879BLKST - LH brake line assy. Blk s/s
HCP1075SET6 - HCP1075 x 6 Brake Union Bolts

(I went with black stainless on the lines. They're available in clear, black, red, and blue.)

 

Desertrat,

Just my experience with bidding on ebay.

If you bid early, that gives people a chance to raise the auction price as they think and quibble, "hmmm, well, I can raise $5, $10, ...."

I prefer the bid sniping method myself, even though it makes some mad.
I look at the auction in the last couple of minutes and see if it is still in the range I want to pay. Within the last minute, usually in another browser tab to the same auction, I take a bid to the point of being done by hitting submit. I put in the actual limit I am willing to go, and without about 15 seconds left, I hit submit. If I win, I win, If I don't I don't. But then I am not tempted to go that extra $5 - $10, etc., more and others don't have the chance.

Now, I do this manually, so I am the one actually watching the auction and timing the submission, even if it is 3am. There are bid sniper programs out there that will do it for you, but there is something about those that irk me.

 

I won the auction. I now have a new/used set of calipers on the way. I'm really only looking for the left caliper. I just don't think I can salvage the larger slider pin or its bore. Hopefully the boots are in good shape, I can salvage at least one of the pad retaining bolts, and I will have my missing shims in hand.
I'm hoping I don't have to spend a ton of money for a piston I don't even need just to get my hands on a few peices of rubber.
What is the perfered method of breaking down jellified DOT3. Standard brake cleaner or is there a better method. I'd like to soak my banjo bolts before trying to blow them clean. How did this bike ever stop?
Does anyone have a good source for SS line parts. I'm running across issues with minimum lengths. Of course I could always upgrade all the other bikes but I'd rather not.

 

I wasn't too thrilled about it either, but as I wanted Maxim-specific parts, I didn't really have much of a choice. As Chacal was telling me, the Seca seals *may* work, but they're thinner than those on the Maxim, so they would flop about in the groove. He was also saying that some outfits listing seals as being for the Maxim are actually for the Seca. You'd have to ask him whether he's been able to have the right ones reproduced yet or not.

If you'll look at the parts list I put up, you'll note that I too used stainless, and the lengths were just fine -- in fact, the instructions he sent were explicit in that he used a stock bike to test the length of the lines. It doesn't really sound like you need it, but I did a photo writeup using his installation instructions when I put mine on. (Checking real quick, it doesn't have the full-on side shot I was thinking it did, but believe me. They fit nicely.)

 

Schmuck, you know that some where out there there are the exact square o-rings we need. The are made for something else and they are just wainting for us to stumble upon them.
As for the SS lines, you write up is quite good. I do like the lines that Chacal sells, I like the part about DOT approved system instead of just approved lines. If I buy a set it will be the black ones as well. I was actually considering building my own lines. I've done it before on a friends racing quad and a few other vehicles. It simple and easy even more so when you have the vehicle in front of you. When I did it before, my buddy had spare line laying around. Now I'm finding that buying small lengths of line all but negates the cost savings. Which brings me back to the DOT ratings....

 

750 Maxim caliper seals: I'm working on it!

DOT ratings: almost ALL raw hose that is sold as "brake line" is DOT-approved. It's the assembly of the end fittings onto raw hose that turns "hose" into a "brake LINE". In order for a completed brake LINE to be DOT-approved for street use, it has to meet certain tests and specifications. Our lines---besides being specifically made to fit original XJ bikes----meet all of the specifications for being street legal by DOT standards, and thus have the unique DOT approval code stamped into the banjo fitting flanges.

Home made or "kit" lines or any that use "swivel end fittings to ease your installation!" are not going to meet those tests and thus those fittings will not have any DOT approval codes stamped into them.