anyone change out front master on a 1982 seca

i want to get rid of the cable and put on a sportbike master cylinder

 

didnt know you can get those aftermarket ?

 

i would like to get rid of the stock one and change to a traditional on the bars mc

 

All the bikes i've owned have the mc on the bars,...... and my machines sing : )

 

i did what ya wanna know, wasn't easy

 

i am currently putting my bike together, and i am using a MC from an ATV. it should be perfect because the quad has 2 front calipers, similar in piston area to my seca.

anything would be better than the cable over hydraulic setup from the factory....that should be illegal!

i hope to take the first "after chop" ride this weekend, so i will know if it works or not.

 

thanks for the input i found a seca 600 1984 switch control on ebay but the mc was jacked up. Anyone know if the 84 seca 600 has 1 or 2 discs?

 

Don't know about 84 seca, but you can go an FZR600 master - twin disc, Yamaha cap.......even has the LH thread mirror mount bulit in.

 

I just did this upgrade about a month ago on my 82 Seca 750, the first thing you have to figure out is do you want to keep your stock Seca hand controls (I did) or do you want to go with a Maxim or Virago control, the later don’t have all the buttons and switches the Seca control does. I tried one of chacal’s bolt-on MC’s but found it didn’t work with the Seca hand controls; the hand control housing is just too big. I would have had to grind and butcher the housing where I cut off the old lever mount to get it to work, or get a Maxim or Virago control.
Here’s what I did. Get all your parts together so you can do this in a day.
I found a Nissin master cylinder from a 2000 cbr929rr it has a thumb screw to adjust the lever for reach and pull. (Make sure which ever one you get is for dual disk/calipers) and check out the MC carefully, make sure the reservoir and bar clamp are running parallel to each other, some of the newer sport bike MC’s have the reservoir running at a diagonal to the bar clamp because the bar ends point down and back.
Cover your bike with a sheet or something; you are going to get filings all over the place in the next couple steps.
Take off all the old brake lever parts.
Then cut off the old brake lever mount.
Get out the angle grinder and sand it all pretty and smooth.
Mask off the area on the housing and prime and paint the area where the old lever mount used to be.
I replaced my stock lines with steel braided lines and ran them dual right out of the new MC at the suggestion of some XJbike members.
Chacal can supply you with lines, banjo bolts, crush washers, etc. to do the conversion.
I needed 13 crush washers to do the job but ended up using more because of routing and rerouting the new lines where they looked and worked best.
The first couple of trips out be careful when applying front brakes, if your old cable over hydraulics were as hard to pull as mine were you will end up doing a stoppie the first time you grab a handful of brake 8O

 

yeah bro that what im talkin about!! nice post.
i have new superbike bars, im dropping the stock mirrors and running clip on under the bars, i found a honda shadow mc that should work nicely. i also found a xj400 throttle control with a kill/start button. now im still trying too find the left side.

you said you ran two lines right of the mc? i think i might try to find a splitter so my dual lines wont have to be so long. cool thanks for the input

 

Anytime I can help just PM me. Crazy to see you are in Orem, I lived in Salt Lake for 30 years, sold my house and blew out of there in April of 2001 just before the Olympics hit town. Glad I missed that mess and the house today still isn’t worth what I got for it. I still get back 4 – 6 times a year to see friends; in fact I was just down there last week for the Outdoor Recreation Convention, man was it hot there last week or what?
Back to your bike and mods, I did the Daytona bars with bar end mirrors; they look a lot like the superbike bars and I like them a lot. The splitter is a good idea, but it will add 5 crush washers, 3 banjo bolts and an extra line to your project. A word of advice, I went with 7” length from the anti-dive to the calipers with 15 degree fittings on both ends. If there was one thing I could change on the lines, I would get the lines 7.5” long OR I would leave them 7” and get 15 degree fittings on one end and 45 degree on the other. All other fittings were 15 degree on both ends.
Good luck and beware the stoppies first couple of rides.