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Bike doesn't start in cold weather

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Joshua Olkowski, Oct 10, 2018.

  1. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Burbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Can do.

    Readers take note: Merged threads will conjoin based on posting dates, so reading back will take a little effort on your part to keep things clear.
     
  2. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Burbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    As mentioned, it can. Heat can also effect solder joints at the circut board (lifting a cold joint from the copper trace), and other components as well.
    You can use a hairdryer to heat the components in need of checking if you don't have the opportunity to ride.
     
  3. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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    I have not replace the stator yet because the ohms check out okay, however, I'm assuming even a good testing stator can go bad under heat especially if its a 37 year old part? I have two extra stators and rotors that I acquired. They're both used but I'm hoping you're right and it's just a quick change of one or both of those parts. We shall see once I get some time and the weather isn't crap.
     
  4. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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  5. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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    Thanks
     
  6. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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    double check with a meter that the charging has gone low[/QUOTE]

    If by double checking you mean checking the battery after a ride, it has indeed gone low. If by double checking to see if the bike is still charging, it indeed only goes up to about 12.5 when I rev it to 3000+rpms. I double checked both of these on my multimeter.
     
  7. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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    Update, stator read 0.7-0.9 ohms after an evening ride. It read 0.4-0.6 ohms before the ride. Going to change out the stator with a used one I found off a Maxim. Stay tuned.
     
  8. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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    Anybody have some clever ideas on how to get these screws out. These babies are stuck in there good. I tried to use an extractor drill bit but it just doesn't work. Any inventive ideas would be most helpful. Thanks.
     

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  9. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    You can't get mole (vice) grips in there I guess and now you've 'nadgered' the heads you migt as well drill them off completely.
    Once you have the heads off and the reg/rec off you can use the mole grips.
     
  10. Timbox

    Timbox Active Member

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    If you have long nose vice grips, that along with the screw driver might do it. Other wise you will have to either dremel (grind) it to a flat tip face. Or as a100man said, drill it all the way out and then you will have something to hold onto.
     
  11. Chitwood

    Chitwood Well-Known Member

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    You could try to make a nice deep slot for a flathead screwdriver to fit into. If that doesnt work then cut the heads right off and focus on removing what's left after the regulator/rectifier is out of the way
     
  12. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    that's not the stator
     
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  13. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  14. cgutz

    cgutz Well-Known Member

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    As stated above, I have had limited success cutting a slot in a screw head with a dremel cutoff wheel, and then using a flat screwdriver.
     
  15. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    Stripped screw head ...this why you should invest in an IJC screw driver, yes it looks like a Phillip's screw driver but has a different profile ...xj4ever sells these hint . Agree with a100 man drill the head off . Why are you replacing the voltage regulator? Have you piggy backed in another regulator to see if this was your problem ? Thought you were going to try stator ?
     
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  16. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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    I did change the stator. It didn't fix the problem. The bike still only reaches 12.5volts after roughly 15minutes of riding. I want to try the regulator next but as you can see it's stuck at the moment. In any case my instincts feel like this is not going to fix the problem. The regulator checks out fine as far as the diodes go. From what I read, a faulty regulator starts overcharging the battery. Not undercharging it as seems to be the case. If that doesn't work, I'll try changing the rotor. Unfortunately, I'm starting to lose my steam again for this poor bike.
     
  17. Timbox

    Timbox Active Member

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    Have you had the battery tested?
     
  18. Joshua Olkowski

    Joshua Olkowski Member

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    Battery is brand new. This is the second one I've tried.
     
  19. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Burbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Test the regulator. Throwing parts at the problem will work, eventually, but it costs a whole lot more than doing proper troubleshooting first.

    I can't recall at the moment, but did you clean the rotor traces and make sure the alternator brushes are long enough? Most of the low voltage problmes with alternator output are caused by dirty/ uneven traces or short brushes.
     
  20. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    what's the voltage of a full charged battery?
    did you ever notice a battery charger with a meter is marked in amps? if you put a volt meter on it with a low battery, it's going to read about 14.6 volts.
    when the battery is full charged it's going to be around 12.5 or 13 volts (just like yours).
    ride until your meter says 12.5 then stop for gas, when you leave, turn the key on but don't start it right away, maybe 30 seconds. now start it does it say 12.5 or more?
     
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