bike makeing poping sound

thanks again, the bike is runnig good got tags and ins today and went for a ride and noticed when i got on it a bit i heard a poping sound hopeing for more advice?got to get to kmart for some rub on tattoos lol

 

Does the popping come through the carbs or out the exhaust?

 

Check her out for an exhaust leak. Collars loose?

Popping usually is a Cylinder Head Exhaust Port Flange Donut.

If the popping sound is: "Poppa-pop ... Poppa-pa-pa ... pop."

It's time to order the donuts!

 

An out of sync carb set up, exhaust leak or a lean condition can all cause a pop. Need more information to help.

 

They're short money. They're basically an asbestos O-ring reinforced with copper foil.

If it burned-through ... you need a new one in there.
If its still whole ... you can TREAT it with a Hi-temp Gasket Sealer and "Save it"

Virago Boys and XS-Riders often use two per hole ... treated with Hi-Temp to keep 'em from leaking-by and having to go in there and replace 'em rather than struggle with having to do exhaust work ... which seems to spread as the bikes get older.

 

Sno, you might try penetrating oil on the threads while the engine is still hot to loosen up those bolts. I'd try spraying them after riding several different times to give them a chance to loosen up.
Still be careful, they break really easy!

 

i seems like the popping is comeing from the carbs.it is only when i give it a lot of gas going down the road if i just take it slow and easy there is no poping

 

Popping through the carbs is indicative of a lean condition. This could be caused by a clogged inline fuel filter,(if you have one) dirty carbs or petcock, low fuel level in the float bowls or lean set pilot mixture screws.
Petcock & fuel filter are the easiest to check. Remove the fuel line from the petcock and set petcock to "PRI" setting. This will allow fuel to flow freely. Have a container to catch the fuel. If fuel flows well then it is not the petcock. Inline fuel filter is checked by blowing through the filter in the direction of fuel flow. Of course you have to remove it first. If it is hard to blow through change it.
Carbs are another issue that need to be studied before removing and attempting to clean them. But a can of Seafoam added to a full tank will help clear slight clogging.

 

the carbs were just cln. .i also done a complete rebuild on the pitcock and instaled a new filter i did have a guy at work tell me that by the smell he thought it was burning lean ,i am scared to make adjustments to the carbs

 

i think i will try the seafoam next tks

 

Chad ...

Don''t be afraid to adjust the carbs if they are running lean. You don't want be lean. Lean is NO GOOD for the engine.

If you don't have the ColorTune Plug to help you find the best mixture ... be sure the Pilot Screws are at least 3 turns out. Maybe the backfire will go away. Maybe the engine will be just a little bit Rich ... but, Rich is better than being too lean.

Too lean is No Good for the Pistons and valves.

 

Pilot Screws? i dont know where they are located, need help

 

Chad the mixture screws are on the top of each carb. If they have never been messed with there might be a small metal disc covering them.
There is one on each carb and they are right by the mixture enrichment valve. (I'm not good with the picture thing like others are)

The little disc will have to come off and you will need to drill them, the carbs will need to be off the bike to avoid damaging the screws when you drill thru the covers.

Let us know if the screw heads are exposed and we can go from there.

If the screw heads are exposed, lightly screw each one in, one at a time counting the turns (so you can return them to where they were and for referance) then return them where they were, write them down and let us know how many turns out each screw was from bottom seat.

BE CAREFUL:
not to bottom out the screws too hard as you can damage them
DONT turn the sync screw that are part of the throttle linkage.
These are small brass screws on the top of the front of each carb

Let us know how each is adjusted and we can go from there

 

Those screws are on the top of the carbs, centered, recessed in a hole (maybe capped as mentioned above), at the front just before the intake manifolds. Each carburetor has one.

The synchronization screws are between the carbs and there are only three of them. These are not the screws you want.

If in doubt watch the screws as you move the throttle. The sync screws will move.

 

i took a pic of the top of a carb i cant locate the pilot screw? i will put it in my profile gallery i cant seem to get it in here.

 

i took a pic of the top of a carb i cant locate the pilot screw? i had to post them in my gallery hope they are ok to see?

 

YOU HAVE A VIRGIN!!!

 

so i will have to drill the hole out ? how deep ?

 

OK like I said I'm not worth _ _ _ _ when it comes to pics

I did manage to find someone elses pics in an old thread
Here they are
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... =carb.html

Toward the gend of the 1st page is a good labled pic of carbs

 

OOps thanks Carl. I couldnt make the pic thing happen fast enough

 

You really don't drill the hole out. My bike wasn't a virgin, but the screw isn't very far under that plug. You just need to get a hole in the plug and pull it out. I believe those that have done it drill a small hole and then use a drywall screw as an extractor.

 

ok now i know what my next step is thanks

 

It's not a hole.
It's just a flimsy little cover ... about half the width of a dime.
The drill will zip through it like butter.

DON'T let the drill break-through and touch the top of the screw ... right on the other side of the plug.

Once the drill penetrates through the THIN cover ... STOP. Anticipate the drill breaking-through.

After you get a VERY, VERY small hole in the cover ... screw in a Sheet Metal Screw and pull that plug out of there like you are a deranged Dentist.

Blow-out or vacuum out.
Add a few drops of oil.

MAKE yourself a Special Screwdriver to use when adjusting these Screws.
The screwdriver MUST fit the slot of the screw -- PERFECTLY!
NO endplay. NO side-to-side.
A screwdriver that FITS that SLOT -- tightly -- so that when the Screw is turned -- the turning force will be applied to the WHOLE BODY of the Screw ... NOT just the VERY FRAGILE "Wings" on the top of that SCREW.

Pilot Screws undisturbed for over 20 Years might be frozen. A loose fitting screwdriver will allow the Wings to move without the body of the Pilot Screw moving ... until they break off.

 

I had some popping from my bike going down hills, Somebody told me to try a higher grade gas. I use the highest grade gas and dont have any popping anymore. I dont know what this means but it worked for me.

 

well sence it was snowing i decided to drill out my pilot screw covers on my carbs. they are not "virgins" anymore. the first carb bottomed out at 3/4ths of a turn, #2 carb 2 1/2 turns, carb#3 3 1/4 turns, and carbs #4 bottomed out at 1 1/2 turns. I backed them all out all 3 turns? the bike fired up great sounds even better than befor!! cant wait to ride it Dang Ohio weather. I will keep you posted on my accleration when I can test drive it ohhh.. I forgot to mention how smooth my idol is now Thanks again Chad

 

Nice to have it -- Hummin' -- ain't it?

 

Glad to hear it runs better. Sorry to hear the snow is in the way of your good time! Now all you need is a colortune and a carb sync and summer is yours.