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@#$%!^%%^&&* brake bleeding!!!!!

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Ground-Hugger, Apr 3, 2012.

  1. Ground-Hugger

    Ground-Hugger Member

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    OK rebuilt my WHOLE front brake system from calipers right up to the M/C.
    I have just spent 5 hours bleeding the system and can't get the air OUT. I have run a fun liter of brake fluid Thru the system and still have air. And yes I am using a Mityvac to bleed them. And ALL the connects are tight. I've checked and double checked!

    Any ideas to get this to go a little faster?
     
  2. SSRat

    SSRat Member

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    Starting from the top bleed @ the banjo's. Bar position may be locking a bubble near the top. Once you get fluid @ each banjo, then worry about the caliper.
    Alternativly, use a plunger/syringe. You don't just have to push fluid out, you can push fluid IN. Bubbles will flow through the MC and resevoir.
    I use that technique myself as I don't have a vacuum bleeder. Works every time. Just gotta be careful otherwise it can get messy.
    Good Luck!
     
  3. OldBikerDude

    OldBikerDude Member

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    Wow man sorry to hear you are having problems. My son is a mechanic and he came over here when I did my brake system and he did the bleed in less than 3 minutes with no mess and no fuss. No fancy gagets either. Sounds like you may have more wrong than you thought. If you want, please send a message to my inbox and I will give you his E-mail so he can tell you how he went about it.
     
  4. wwj750

    wwj750 Member

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    I see you have a 750 Seca like I do. What a PITA these remote, cable-operated master cylinders are, right? Cant offer much advice, just my support and sympathy. I thinking to check the lever on the master, to see if you have full travel, as I'm sure you already did. Good luck amigo.
    Are you bleeding from the anti-dive units first? Oops-sorry, just re-read and Im unsure what model a 750K is. If my ideas dont apply, well-never mind then.
     
  5. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Did you remember to put a couple of rounds of teflon tape on the bleed screw (being careful not to block the hole?)

    If not, your Mity-Vac can pull air past the threads of the bleed screw making you think you're drawing bubbles from the system when you're really drawing them from the outside...

    BEEN THERE, done that...

    Once I get close, I usually ditch the Mity-Vac and do the last few by hand.
     
  6. kcirvoceystory

    kcirvoceystory New Member

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    BEST WAY TO BLEED FRONT CALIPERS IS TO UNBOLT CALIPER ELEVATE THE CALIPER ABOVE MASTER CYCLINDER AND BLEED THE AIR OUT NOW YOU SHOULD TAKE THE PADS OUT AND PUT A SOCKET/BLOCK OF WOOD/ANYTHING TO KEEP FROM OVER EXTENDING THE CALIPER. SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO GO THIS ROUTE ESPECIALLY WHEN RUNNING LARGER THAN STOCK LINES. REMEMBER AIR IS LIGHTER THAN THE BRAKE FLUID IT NATURALY WANTS TO FLOW UPWARD. HOPE IT WORKS OUT FOR YOU.
     
  7. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    A trick I learned on this site is to fit a clear tube and funnel to the TOP of the Master Cyl - this keeps the Master full, and you can watch your progress, AND it stacks just a little bit of pressure "on top". Keep handlebars left until the final bleeding.

    Not having a Mity-Vac, I used mouth suction while slowly pumping the lever. I had a good length of Oxygen Mask hose.

    I have since used a pickle jar, 2 hoses, the long hose connected to an idling V8 - - provides all the suction you'll ever need. (the short hose goes to the bleeder, both hoses glued thru the jar lid)
     
  8. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    Welcome to the site -

    That won't work with the anti-dive set-up, but good advise for Maxims -
     

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