broken intake bolt; extraction question

I have tried every way to get this thing out except one. I have a little bit of the bolt sticking out and I was thinking about welding a nut to that and use a wrench to try and turn it off. Will the heat from the welder be too much for the aluminum to handle?

 

Have you pulled the head yet or is it still on the bike?

 

I have seen mention of doing this exact thing a number of times. I think it all depends on how much bolt you have left. The heat may actually help it.

My questions for those that know:
Would an impact be better than a wrench?
Heating the bolt may weaken it, would it be better to allow it to cool slowly, or to quench it with water/etc?

 

Heat will help the bolt break loose. The aluminum in the head will expand more than the steel in the bolt. The head is quite a heat sink, you shouldn't be generating enough heat to harm it.

Of course you need to get the fuel tank and carburetors well away. If you're going to use an arc welder disconnect the TCI and regulator/rectifier too.

Remove while still hot.

 

I wouldn't go the welding route, I would cut it off leaving 2mm & use a stud extractor, the heat generated from the drilling will help.

 

Diamond Cutting Bits
Dremel

Dremel Right Angle Head
http://www.drillspot.com/products/79703 ... ngle_Drive

 

Instead of welding a nut to the broken bolt, build the weld into a T on top of the bolt and use a pair of pliers to remove it. DO NOT grind it down and try to drill and use an easy out. If you do not drill perfectly center or if you have one slip, you can cost yourself a head. The welding method works like a charm and I have never had a broken bolt or stud I could not remove. The heat from the welding helps break the bolt loose and several times I was able to remove the bolt using only my gloved hand. If you try and cannot get the weld to stick good enough to break the bolt loose, then try the easyout. You have nothing to lose.

 

i broke all of my bolts, drilled them all, and did a terrible job drilling some of them. one was so bad i actually drilled out the crooked hole really big, filled with jb weld, and redrilled and tapped in the correct spot. be prepared for the ass whooping of your life. THESE BOLTS ARE THE WORST!!!

 

it doesn't have to be that bad, thats why I say leave 2mm out, so you can centre punch without splaying the stud & start with 1mm drill, be patient.

 

A broken-off Intake Manifold Cap Screw is one way to get yourself placed in an angry, viscous-circle; spiraling out-of-control as you do things you shouldn't do to try getting a fragment of steel removed from a cast aluminum surrounding.

Two decades or more of Galvanic Corrosion have all but actually joined the steel bolt to the Head.

Have a modern Machine Shop burn it out with their EDM Machine and the story concludes with a Fairy Tale ending. "Happily ever after"

Start messing with it and wind-up making a bad situation worse; and it becomes a Nightmare you'll be begging to wake-up out-of.

 

yeah, i know the nightmare your talking about. All the "Tricks of the Trade" bullcrap that I've read about online say that these easyouts are the best. I have dulled all of them trying to drill it and broke one off. I am going to talk to a machine shop today and see what it would cost. Thanks for the help guys

 

I can't take it anymore, I think the head is now shot now from my feeble attempts to excavate 2 broken bolts from the intake of my 750 seca. I've tried easyouts (HA! what stupid name for these things!) (now I have matching BROKEN in the hole easyouts!), gallons of liquid wrench, heat, diamond bits, drill bits after drill bits, and think I may have drilled to deep (is there a passageway for gasses right BEHIND the bolt threads?)
To take it off means a lot more work, new head gaskets...what a bloody scream! AHHH! !
Pity, the $500 beast ran pretty good for awhile. But it started runnnig poorly and I found all sorts of crud in the carbs when I rebuilt them. But now they aren't much use.
IF you CAN, LEAVE the Rubber intake boots ON YOUR MACHINE. Unless the cracking goes all the way through and they leak air in, don't do what I did and try to take them out. It really ruined a buncha nice days I coulda been riding. And now riding is out of the picture for some time. Waanh! VERY DEPRESSED and wondering why all the bad luck these past few weeks.

 

Pull the head and take it in.
I can't stress enough when you break a bolt STOP and get a machine shop involved right away. Before you break off drill bits, EZ outs. or worse drill off center and ruin the head altogeather.

Sorry I feel your pain. I hope it gets better for you.

MN

 

Your first Post is to ask us what to do AFTER you messed-up.

You should have quit and researched your options before making the situation worse.

Here's what to do now!

Remove the Cylinder Head and bring it to a Machine Shop.
Since the Head needs to come off for repairs; consider having the Cylinder Head done like new. (Valve job, Valve seals, de-Carbon and what ever the shop recommends)

Alternatively: Find a Regional Technical High School with a superior Machine Shop facility and present yourself with the Cyl Head and ask the Faculty Machine Shop Teaching Professional to help you get "Dis-foo-bared"

 

why that is a wonderful idea, Rick. It is kinda messed up. We have a technical college here, my bro went for awhile. He says the same thing since he finally dropped by for a look.
I try too hard sometimes to 'get something done' before analyzing enough. You're spot on there. It cause me frequent problems. Especially when I'm depressed and other things stack up. I swear it all comes in big lumps sometimes; as this drama has unfolded, I, a wee underemployed (constr), am scheming now how to replace a couple bad window switches in an 91 Voyager that is starting to act up big time this time. I freak without air, wind.
I'll tell you, when that easyout snaps, below the flush completely frozen bolt corpse, it's seems like the world is almost over. (That's next winter)
I'll focus on getting it done right, and, instead, keeping the van running for awhile (w/o it there's no work$ for the bike!). But I am gonna be thinking about riding all the time. It's been a long many years since I rode, just started again last summer.
I just hate being so broke (I need to whine a bit)and because in this madness we call life it means no riding for WAY too long...it's such a nice time of year in the Pac NW!
Thank you

 

"...be prepared for the ass whooping of your life. "
That's a good one!

 

The easiest way to remove the Easy-Out fragment is with Electrical Discharge Machining. EDM.
Find a place that has a EDM Machine and you'll be on the way to being healed real quickly.

EDM Machining:

http://process-equipment.globalspec.com ... chines_EDM