Carb Pilot Screws

Haven't been on the forum much lately, but last week was uncharacteristically warm in Chicago and I got a case of Bike Fever. So, I'm out in the garage again, prepping her for Spring. Of course, it's snowing now.

I cleaned and rebuilt (new gaskets and float needles) my carbs about three years ago. For the most part, the bike has been running well but this past summer, it started running a bit rough and - to be sheepishly honest - I didn't winterize the bike this year as well as I should have (no stabilizer in the tank, didn't hook the bat up to a charger, etc). Also, she was filthy.

So I pulled the carbs. And pulled out the indispensable texts - Haynes, Factory manual, and the most important - Rick Massey's Whole Nine Yards:
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... art=0.html

The last time I cleaned, though, I didn't mess with the pilot screws. The factory anti-tamper plugs are still on my carbs. So my question is - should I mess with them this time around? Or should I just clean the thing up and see if it'll run first?

 

You can't tune the carbs without getting at the P M Screws, out with the plugs & on with the job.

 

Ok, fair enough.

Next question: Can I pull the plugs without a dremel? Should I try to use a regular drill? Or should I just suck it up and shell out the cash?

 

I've always been able to remove them with a sheet metal or drywall (or combination of the two) screws on other bikes but I admit, the plugs were already removed when I bought my XJ.

jeff
Almost forgot to remind you, count the number of turns to seat each screw once you get the plugs out and write it down for each carb. It will help you when you're finished.

 

If you didn't pull the screws you didn't clean the carbs completely.

All of the advice above applies; carefully drill a small hole thru the cap, screw in a small sheet metal screw and extract. Record the original positions "out" from gently bottomed.

You're probably going to want a set of the o-rings for the screws; they are about O that big and probably don't resemble o-rings any more.

 

your dealing with an old machine. i don't think the manaufacture is going to kick your arse for messing with the screws.

LOL.

 

You need to Drill a hole that will allow you to Nip the Tip off a Drywall Screw and let that Drywall Screw get a bite in the Plug.

Then, ... you grab onto the Drywall Screw with Vice Grips and smack the Vice Grips to yank-out the Plug.

The Plug is Thinner than 2 Nickels stacked together.
You MUST NOT let the Drill Bit make contact with the soft brass Pilot Screw Slotted Head ... which might be VERY CLOSE to the Plug.

 

I drilled and pulled the plugs. The screws, thankfully, look pristine. Also, they turn easily. I haven't pulled them yet, though.

...there are some filings (from the plug-drilling) that are sitting on the threads. I remember reading that these can screw things up a bit, so I wanted to stop and ask for any tips/advice before I proceed. Got anything?

 

Just clean the metal out before you turn the screws and you should be ok. For future reference when you are going to drill into something where the shavings could be a problem coat the bit with grease or vaseline. That will grab the shavings keeping them on the bit and not dropping them where you dont want them.

 

I blew out the pilot screw holes with compressed air after I drilled the plugs to clean out the shavings. Worked just fine.

 

When I bought my bike it ran kinda crapy.
After a couple of weeks I found this site and soaked up
everything I could read about tuning the right way.

After drilling out the fac/caps the pilot screws were anything from
1 out to almost 4.
I did all the above, setting the pilots at 21/2 out and gauge syc.

A 100% new bike shot out from butt on the road test!

I guess the point of the story is this....thanks to Rick, Fiz, chacal, and too
many others to name,If you do what they suggest and don't take
short cuts, a motor would have to be trash not to work.

I felt great confidents when I tackled a rack from an '82 xj 650, and '82
GL1100A recently and believe me, I'm no rocket scientist.
But all went well,only had to replace the seals on the xj and 1 pilot
screw ass'y o-ring on the GL.