Carb reassembly - update: more indepth (not just anti seize)

Which threaded parts get a dab of anti-sieze when being fit?

I've followed Shmuck / Chacal's hitachi throttle shaft guide - but I dont recall it saying if you should use the paste on pilots and idle mixture screws...

I'm in the final phase of parts cleanup, and installation (pilots, diaphragms, floats and hats) and was hoping to get some clarity from individuals who've already rebuilt their carbs before.

 

Re: Carb reassembly - question on anti-seize

I use a very small "swipe" on ANY screws; but in the carbs you want to be sure there is NO EXCESS to squish out and clog anything. I apply a tiny amount and then wipe it off; since you can't truly wipe that stuff off of anything, the trace amount that remains is enough.

 

Re: Carb reassembly - question on anti-seize

Per Schmuckoholic's write-up.....

Loctite for butterfly valves & bracket screws

Anti-seize for carb hats & float bowls....

 

Re: Carb reassembly - question on anti-seize

Would excess anti-sieze plug a Pilot passage, or would it just get flushed away ??

Would it all stay above the "O" ring ??

 

During reassembly, I've run into two parts issues:

1. one of the fuel needle seat washers was of the wrong material - so I reused the original metal washer. After assembly, I noticed the floats are at different min/max levels. I found this to be the washer is slightly thicker than the other 3 new metal washers.

I'm wondering if this is a problem if I'm still just setting the float level to be identical to the rest. In that, I dont believe we care what the minimum amount of fuel in the carb is - just the maximum amount -- would that be a correct assumption?

2. The same carb, but new needle seems to have a lower spring force on the pin then the rest of the needles. In which, the float, when the carb rack is upside down, will actually depress the needle pin most of the way. Other floats appear to be sitting higher, and not causing the spring to pre-load / squat.

Does this too matter, or a moot point as when it's in use, it'll still stop the fuel flow when the needle is pressed all the way in.

ASCII example of the noticeable spring difference:

Good needle example:
_________=======
|
|
| |
\ /

Soft spring example:
_________=======
|
| |
\ /

 

Personally, ... I subscribe to this principle.

If you visit New York.
Have a Pretzel and see the Empire State Building.

If you visit France.
Go to the top of the Eiffel Tower.

If you're rehabbing a set of Carbs which are a quarter-century old.
Pop for New Viton-tipped Needles and Seats.

WTF!

 

Re: Carb reassembly - update: more indepth (not just anti se

I wouldn't think the washer would matter as long as you wet set the floats and get them all in tolerance. If you got the parts from Chacal, let him know and he will send you a replacement.

If the spring on one needle is being depressed more than others, then it would appear to me than either the spring is weaker, or perhaps the float is heavier, maybe due to absorbing some fuel. I floated all the floats in gas just to make sure that they all floated equally meaning none were heavier due to absorbing fuel.

 

And I have. I'll even send you the parts order I placed with Chacal for it.

These are new parts I'm having problems with.

 

Re: Carb reassembly - update: more indepth (not just anti se

I've sent him an email about the washer, thinking it was the only problem, but I'll be sending a followup with notes about the needle.

I was trying to gauge from the community if it was thought to be a problem. Like, if the needles have an acceptable tolerance or something of the sort.


I should add, I tried the same needle with other floats, and had the same behavior.

 

the only thing that matters is where the fuel is in the clear tube test.
how it gets there is irrelevant

 

personally, i use anti-sieze on just about everything that doesn't get locktite